Two basic headlight questions I NEED help with!
Two basic headlight questions I NEED help with! Hi there. Two quick questions which I'm sure someone on here must be knowledgable enough to help me with:
1) I'm just wondering if anyone could tell me how to deactivate the "low light sensor" on my car which activates the head lamps in low light conditions. I heard before that U.S. cars don't have this feature, so that tells me that there MUST be a way to deactivate this feature. For reference purposes, I believe it uses the alarm led on the dash as the low light sensor. When it gets dark they pop up, and this is annoying me and also I want this feature off since when the lights are auto-activated in this manner, sometimes only one comes up! So I'd rather just bypass this and turn them on manually like normal cars. This is NOT the drl (daytime running lights module I'm referring to-it is the "low light sensor" that is the problem. How can I disable this. I have asked this question in my other related posts and no help on this topic so I thought I'd start a dedicated thread for this problem.
2) how can one adjust the head lamp doors so they close flush and even? What tool do I need?
*I can't find any of this info out anywhere and not even in my Haynes manual does it mention either of these things, not that I could find anyways.
Please help if you can.
1) I'm just wondering if anyone could tell me how to deactivate the "low light sensor" on my car which activates the head lamps in low light conditions. I heard before that U.S. cars don't have this feature, so that tells me that there MUST be a way to deactivate this feature. For reference purposes, I believe it uses the alarm led on the dash as the low light sensor. When it gets dark they pop up, and this is annoying me and also I want this feature off since when the lights are auto-activated in this manner, sometimes only one comes up! So I'd rather just bypass this and turn them on manually like normal cars. This is NOT the drl (daytime running lights module I'm referring to-it is the "low light sensor" that is the problem. How can I disable this. I have asked this question in my other related posts and no help on this topic so I thought I'd start a dedicated thread for this problem.
2) how can one adjust the head lamp doors so they close flush and even? What tool do I need?
*I can't find any of this info out anywhere and not even in my Haynes manual does it mention either of these things, not that I could find anyways.
Please help if you can.
Don't knpow about #1, but I think the adjustments are 4 phillips head screws that move that door in all directions.
You're talking about lining the top of the haedlight assembly (painted part) with the hood and fender, right?
.
You're talking about lining the top of the haedlight assembly (painted part) with the hood and fender, right?
.
Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
#1. Probably the same way as the Camaro. Check this sticky:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/7096661-post8.html
#2. There are 3 or 4 screws that hold the lid in place on the mechanism and the holes they go through are slotted to allow adjustment. When you remove the plastic trim around the bulbs (3 screws: left, top-center, right) , you'll see two of the lid screws (front and side). The others are at the rear and only accessible when the doors are down. That won't fix if they don't close far enough though (or close too far). That is a different adjustment. Look down at where the lift arm sits. There is an adjustable white stopper. Sometimes the wire gets in the way. If that is the case, re-route it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/7096661-post8.html
#2. There are 3 or 4 screws that hold the lid in place on the mechanism and the holes they go through are slotted to allow adjustment. When you remove the plastic trim around the bulbs (3 screws: left, top-center, right) , you'll see two of the lid screws (front and side). The others are at the rear and only accessible when the doors are down. That won't fix if they don't close far enough though (or close too far). That is a different adjustment. Look down at where the lift arm sits. There is an adjustable white stopper. Sometimes the wire gets in the way. If that is the case, re-route it.
Last edited by VIP1; Jul 6, 2009 at 07:30 PM.
Yes just to make sure that the pass. side closes as far down as the driver's side. I sort of thought it was the little knobby like adjustment that has the rubber boot over it? I looks like a hex of some sort? I check out what you mean though, thanks man.
#1. Probably the same way as the Camaro. Check this sticky:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/7096661-post8.html
#2. There are 3 or 4 screws that hold the lid in place on the mechanism and the holes they go through are slotted to allow adjustment. When you remove the plastic trim around the bulbs (3 screws: left, top-center, right) , you'll see two of the lid screws (front and side). The others are at the rear and only accessible when the doors are down. That won't fix if they don't close far enough though (or close too far). That is a different adjustment. Look down at where the lift arm sits. There is an adjustable white stopper. Sometimes the wire gets in the way. If that is the case, re-route it.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/7096661-post8.html
#2. There are 3 or 4 screws that hold the lid in place on the mechanism and the holes they go through are slotted to allow adjustment. When you remove the plastic trim around the bulbs (3 screws: left, top-center, right) , you'll see two of the lid screws (front and side). The others are at the rear and only accessible when the doors are down. That won't fix if they don't close far enough though (or close too far). That is a different adjustment. Look down at where the lift arm sits. There is an adjustable white stopper. Sometimes the wire gets in the way. If that is the case, re-route it.
Well for answer #1- why can't I just disconnect the light sensor wire and leave the alarm indicator one on instead of shorting them together? Also, for answer #2- what is the **** type thing located above each light when you look down at them in the engine bay. It looks like it has a rubber boot over it and adjusts with some sort of hex? What is that grease nipple **** looking type thing then? I just need the light to close all the way. The alignment and lid positioning are all ok. Thanks a bunch.
Also: do I have to crack open the dash to get at this sensor? Or do I go in through the glove box or something like that? Edit: I looked at the picture you provided and re-read it but I'm still a little unlclear how to get at this sensor. I'm missing something with the window pillar part?
Last edited by oddwraith; Jul 6, 2009 at 11:23 PM.
Copy & Paste Moderator
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 9,764
Likes: 208
From: Eastern MA
Originally Posted by oddwraith
Well for answer #1- why can't I just disconnect the light sensor wire and leave the alarm indicator one on instead of shorting them together?
Originally Posted by oddwraith
Also, for answer #2- what is the **** type thing located above each light when you look down at them in the engine bay. It looks like it has a rubber boot over it and adjusts with some sort of hex? What is that grease nipple **** looking type thing then? I just need the light to close all the way. The alignment and lid positioning are all ok.
If your issue is just that you want the doors to close lower, with the headlights up and down, look down where the lift rest arm rests when its up and down. You see a white pad on a bolt that it rests on when its down. You can adjust the height of that pad to alter the height at which the headlight door stops.
Just a reminder, keep your hands away from the headlights while they are going up or down electrically.
Originally Posted by oddwraith
I looked at the picture you provided and re-read it but I'm still a little unlclear how to get at this sensor. I'm missing something with the window pillar part?
That will make the system think its always dark which is the opposite of what you want.
That is just a rubber boot covering the top of the motor. You can pull that rubber boot off to see a ****. You can manually spin that **** by hand **** to raise and lower the headlight manually. Don't go near it if the headlights are goning up/down electrically by the switch because that **** spins and will hurt you. For your safety, remove the corresponding headlight door switch from the fuse box under the hood before using that ****. There are 2 blue 15amp mini fuses (one for each headlight door).
If your issue is just that you want the doors to close lower, with the headlights up and down, look down where the lift rest arm rests when its up and down. You see a white pad on a bolt that it rests on when its down. You can adjust the height of that pad to alter the height at which the headlight door stops.
Just a reminder, keep your hands away from the headlights while they are going up or down electrically.
The A-pillar plastic cover has to be removed before you can pull up the upper dash pad. You may have to remove both A-Pillar covers. If you have a t-top, its really easy to remove the A-pillar covers. There are two screws at the top by the t-top peg hole. Then they pretty much just pull off. Be very careful when removing the upper dash pad. Its held in with clips and velcro, but the pad itself gets brittle with age. Some people have shattered theirs. I pulled min up partially to install a GPS antenna and it went fine though.
That is just a rubber boot covering the top of the motor. You can pull that rubber boot off to see a ****. You can manually spin that **** by hand **** to raise and lower the headlight manually. Don't go near it if the headlights are goning up/down electrically by the switch because that **** spins and will hurt you. For your safety, remove the corresponding headlight door switch from the fuse box under the hood before using that ****. There are 2 blue 15amp mini fuses (one for each headlight door).
If your issue is just that you want the doors to close lower, with the headlights up and down, look down where the lift rest arm rests when its up and down. You see a white pad on a bolt that it rests on when its down. You can adjust the height of that pad to alter the height at which the headlight door stops.
Just a reminder, keep your hands away from the headlights while they are going up or down electrically.
The A-pillar plastic cover has to be removed before you can pull up the upper dash pad. You may have to remove both A-Pillar covers. If you have a t-top, its really easy to remove the A-pillar covers. There are two screws at the top by the t-top peg hole. Then they pretty much just pull off. Be very careful when removing the upper dash pad. Its held in with clips and velcro, but the pad itself gets brittle with age. Some people have shattered theirs. I pulled min up partially to install a GPS antenna and it went fine though.
you'd think they'd just let you pull a relay or some ****? Thanks for all the help...AGAIN! lol
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 1
From: Just This Side of Damnation
Oddwraith, I think maybe you are not clear about the wires...at least the way I'm reading what your response is.
There are two wires on the light sensor. These two are the wires you short together with a scotchlock. Leave the alarm LED completely out of this endeavor.
Assuming, of course, that your setup is similar to the Camaro. For photos and prior write-ups, search for SCOTCHLOCK .
There are two wires on the light sensor. These two are the wires you short together with a scotchlock. Leave the alarm LED completely out of this endeavor.
Assuming, of course, that your setup is similar to the Camaro. For photos and prior write-ups, search for SCOTCHLOCK .
No I know not to touch the alarm portion but still, can i just cross the two wires for the light sensor and then separate them enough to put them into the harness/insert again?
Do I NEED the scotchlock or can I use the old fashion electrical tape way?
Do I NEED the scotchlock or can I use the old fashion electrical tape way?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 1
From: Just This Side of Damnation
A scotchlock will not goo/gum up like tape hot from the sun. A scotchlock can be removed quickly and easily. A scotchlock takes five seconds to put on and close with a pair of simple pliers.
Your choice.
Your choice.
