fozziejared

iTrader: (1)

the air condition system shows to be full according to the ac gauge i put on it, i tried to put more charge in it, but it wont take anymore.. the compressor is definitely kicking on.. i pulled the relay on the ac clutch and it kicked off and then i pluged it back in and it kicked on, so i can see that it is working, the gauge reads full, the blower is blowing hard, there is just no cold air.. i was thinking i may leave it running in one spot for a while and see if the evaporator was dripping water onto the pavement.. that way i could know if the problem might be the deal that turns the hot water from coming through the heater coil.. what do you guys think?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

You have to turn the **** to the cold side, the blue color. j/k


That symptom sounds like a blockage. A few people have had that problem on this site in the past month or so. After you check to see if the drier is getting cold under the hood, you'll know for sure if you're blocked up inside. If it gets cold, you're probably blocked.


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fozziejared

iTrader: (1)

hahaha, what a comedian!!

a blockage where? in the coolant line? in the little door/stopper, that keeps water out of the heater coil? where is that little dude? in the dash? the only one i have ever worked on was on an acura integra, it was mounted on the firewall and was a little butterfly valve that was'nt closing entirely.. where is this valve and what does it look like so i can check that for blockage!? i turned it to heat and it nearly scorched my skin it was so hot, but when turned to a/c the air coming out is a little warmer than outside temps!

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

The blockages occur in the orafice tube.

Did you check to see if the vacuum line didn't come off behind the intake. I think that controls the vents too. Its near the MAP sensor.


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fozziejared

iTrader: (1)

the vents are ok, i have heard of people having problems with their vents, i don't seem to have that issue, air is coming out where it is supposed to, but the air is not cold!! where is the orafice tube you speak of and what does it do?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Orafice tube is in the metal high-pressure line that runs from the dryer, and back about 1 foot near the passenger side strut tower and has one bolt holding it in place.

You would have to open the system to change it out. I've been told just a few drops of moisture or something a small as a baby spider can cause a problem. Niot sure what it does but it has a tiny mess screen on it and its the size of a pencil in diameter. I think they're like $4.00.

This may not be the issue, so don't open the system yet.

Is the dryer getting cold under the hood and dripping water off it?


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blades11b

iTrader: (1)

yeah it may be the oraphice tube thats common problem but also you said the system is "full" and then you tryed to put more in and it wouldent take?? theres deffinatly a possibility that you over charged it. if you did the compressor will run all day but you will only get hot air because it will get so cold the lines will freeze. is the drier like ice cold and frosting up?

blades11b

iTrader: (1)

by the way also the oraphice tube works as a metering device for the flow through the tube on the high pressure side thats why they can go bad or get blocked with debris and everything doesnt work. if your not over charged pull it apart replace the oraphice tube flush everything out. refil to spec and give it another shot

fleetmgr

You don't say if the system has been opened up for any reason recently, of if you've had a leak and recharged the system. If you've had either of those conditions, your problem is most probably moisture in the system.

If you get any moisture in the system, it will create a little ice ball at the end point of the orifice tube, right where expansion of the refrigerant is taking place. The cure is to get your system dried out. This means you have to remove the charge, replace the drier, pull a deep vacuum on the system for several hours, and then recharge.

The several hour deep vacuum is to boil off any remaining moisture, especially any that may be entrained in the oil in the compressor and throughout the system. The vacuum lowers the boiling point of water (down to about 35 deg. F if deep enough), and allows it to be swept out of the system.

fozziejared

iTrader: (1)

fleetmgr i have owned the car for only 2 days, i have no idea if it was opened, i am going to pull the orifice tube replace the drier and have a vaccuum pulled on the system, everything is working, it has to be a plugged orifice i guess..

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

You should be good if you do all that.

First put a can of 134 back in, compressor will engage, then second - put a 3 oz can of just oil in, then put the second can of 134 in.


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fozziejared

iTrader: (1)

don't have to run a vacuum? the high pressure tube was ice cold on the car side of the orifice and nearly scorching to the touch on the compressor side of the orifice! so surely that is it.. can i open the system and replace the drier and orifice tube and recharge re-oil without pulling a vacuum? probably ill advised eh?

99RTA

iTrader: (-1)

Really you need pro help unless you are willing to do loyts of reading and risk injury. You need to hook up a real set of gauges and know what you are looking for to know what to do to repair it.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Absolutely no need to vacuum the system if its just open for that repair. I had mine open 3 times in the past 6 months for repairs. The first time it was open for 2-3 months waiting to get a metal line I broke by accident. Then recharged it and it was ice cold. Then I broke a metal line by accident like a month later working on my car and all the 134 sprayed out. It was open for about 2 weeks till I fixed that. Then a pin hole leak opened up in a rubber hose and it was open for about a week.

Its still ice cold today, no vacuum ever. The dealership replaced my compressor 5 years ago and they didn't even vacuum it.

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fozziejared

iTrader: (1)

thanks ls6427 where do i relieve the pressure at? since i am replacing the orifice tube, should i just loosen it there and let it all bleed out right there? i should replace the drier though for sure right? it will be hard to do that with just a crescent wrench, i may wait until i get back home to texas where i have my shop full of tools.. however, i would love to be able to have a/c on the way home.. is this job feasable with just an adjustable wrench? i have to pull the battery to replace the drier correct? and when all the pressure is off the lines, will it blow out the compressor oil too? or will it stay in the compressor? basically all i need is a drier, orifice tube and several cans of r134 right? how many cans will this system hold? thanks for the info!

01CaMMMaro

iTrader: (25)

The system can have free on in it and still not work, it has to have an exact amount in it. I would run some dye and check for a leak... im going to say the compressor is leaking. If the compressor is leaking, you will be able to see oil on it without running the dye... if it was me, id run the dye anyways.

fozziejared

iTrader: (1)

its not leaking, it was in the dead center of the blue margin on the gauge when i tried to put some more r134 in it.. the metal hose has ice forming on one side of the orifice, and is really hot on the other side, it seems obvious there is a blockage..

i just need to know what all i need to buy and if i can replace the drier with just a crescent wrench?

383C5Supercharged

iTrader: (1)

Will someone PLEASE take a pic of the orifice tube. I am in the same damn boat. (time to trade up.. ZO6 C6).

fozziejared

iTrader: (1)

383c5supercharged- when i get mine pulled out i will snap a picture for you!

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Ours look like the GM ones towards the bottom of the page. About as long as a pencil. maybe a little shorter.

http://www.autoacsystems.com/_store/...ficetubes.html


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