Mopar combustion chamber cleaner video results
07-31-2009, 06:12 PM
#42
When I fly a Gulfstream IV through heavy rain each engine ingests upwards of 10 gallons per second. 99% of that water is turned into steam on contact with the 800*C heat of the internal engine parts.......see I backed it up with info that tells you where the water goes. Not guessing.
.
08-01-2009, 02:12 PM
#44
Teching In
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow...99RTA, you're just citing these ridiculous claims with no facts to back them up. No sources, formulas, webpages, articles.....nothing. And you just expect people to eat those claims up because you said so?!? I'm sorry but you just don't have any credibility.
I'm going to give the MCCC a shot, is it available at Pepboys, Checker, Autozone, etc? And I'll be keeping an eye on the results of your PCV setup LS6427, I've been looking for a way of changing the factory PCV setup to be more beneficial and it looks like you're on the right track!
I'm going to give the MCCC a shot, is it available at Pepboys, Checker, Autozone, etc? And I'll be keeping an eye on the results of your PCV setup LS6427, I've been looking for a way of changing the factory PCV setup to be more beneficial and it looks like you're on the right track!
Last edited by CMurph; 08-04-2009 at 12:53 PM.
08-01-2009, 03:23 PM
#45
Wow...99RTA, you're just citing these ridiculous claims with no facts to back them up. No sources, formulas, webpages, articles.....nothing. And you just expect people to eat those claims up because you said so?!? I'm sorry but you just don't have any credibility.
I'm going to give the MCCC a shot, is it available at Pepboys, Checker, Autozone, etc? And I'll be keeping an eye on the results of your PVC setup LS6427, I've been looking for a way of changing the factory PVC setup to be more beneficial and it looks like you're on the right track!
I'm going to give the MCCC a shot, is it available at Pepboys, Checker, Autozone, etc? And I'll be keeping an eye on the results of your PVC setup LS6427, I've been looking for a way of changing the factory PVC setup to be more beneficial and it looks like you're on the right track!
I think I'm on to something with this new set-up I just did. I used a clear hose also and I haven't seen a drop of oil in it yet. I just went out for 1 1/2 hour and tore the *** out of my car. Put 50 miles on it on I595 and I95, did a few 150mph runs too. Usually when I would do this I would burn 1/2 qrt. of oil. and I would leave small trails of smoke when I nail the gas. No more smoke at all when I nail the throttle and I'm gonna wait about 20 minutes till the oil settles in the oil pan before checking the level.
In the picture below, you see I hooked the lower intake vacuum port to a PCV valve and then to the passengers side valve cover. I also impeded the flow of that vacuum so its about half strength with a plastic plug in the hose, so it doesn't pull oil out of the valve cover but still gives a constant pull on the crankcase gases.
If the oil level is the same it looks like a winner. The valley cover crankcase port also has a vent/filter so fresh air can get sucked in. And you can feel it, it sucks air in with the engine idling. If I put a vent/filter on the other valve cover and the oil fill cap, it'll just be better.
We'll see what happenes to oil burn over the next week, I'll put 200 miles on it to test it.
And "99RTA".....still no water fall in my crankcase/oil, where did it go?
.
08-01-2009, 03:29 PM
#46
ALSO.....
For those, like me, who dont care about venting the crankcase to the atmosphere.
By putting a vent/filter on the oil fill cap ($30.00), both valve covers ($6.00), and then put a small electric air-pusher motor on the valley cover port or wherever it can enter the crankcase to push fresh air in.......you can vent the crankcase that way. It will push air out the 3 vented filters. It "should" work perfectly and no more oil into the intake.
.
For those, like me, who dont care about venting the crankcase to the atmosphere.
By putting a vent/filter on the oil fill cap ($30.00), both valve covers ($6.00), and then put a small electric air-pusher motor on the valley cover port or wherever it can enter the crankcase to push fresh air in.......you can vent the crankcase that way. It will push air out the 3 vented filters. It "should" work perfectly and no more oil into the intake.
.
08-01-2009, 03:52 PM
#48
Also, I had a ton of oil going through my PCV into my intake. Since I did this experiment the oil burn has pretty much stopped.
I'll know alot more in 10 days.
.
08-01-2009, 04:26 PM
#50
But yes, almost all the oil I was consuming was through that damn valley cover port to the crankcase getting sucked into the intake. As soon as I capped that off over a month ago, I didn't add any oil since my oil change last week. So I went 4 weeks with no noticable oil consumption. For the past couple years I've been adding 1 qrt every 2 weeks. I just thought it was my old worn rings and cylinder walls. Its almost all PCV related....unbelievable.
.
08-05-2009, 11:36 PM
#59
Let's get this thread back on topic... LS1Fury! and / or LS6427 -
How does one properly add MCCC to an LT1 - I've done the Seafoam thing (following the instructions on the Seafoam Thread), but if MCCC is vastly superior, then I'd like to do it the right way.
So: pour it into a hot motor (via a PCV port), shut it down at once, let it sit for 30 minutes, then fire it up? Is it just that simple, or did I miss something?
How does one properly add MCCC to an LT1 - I've done the Seafoam thing (following the instructions on the Seafoam Thread), but if MCCC is vastly superior, then I'd like to do it the right way.
So: pour it into a hot motor (via a PCV port), shut it down at once, let it sit for 30 minutes, then fire it up? Is it just that simple, or did I miss something?
After a lot of research on seafoam, I decided to clean my top end with MCCC instead. With much help from LS6427, I followed his instruction and injected it through the PCV port of the intake with a 3/8" fuel line. The can cost me $6 and took all of 2 minutes to do the job. After 30 minutes of letting the foam expand, all I did was start her up.
08-05-2009, 11:55 PM
#60
LS1Fury! and / or LS6427 -
How does one properly add MCCC to an LT1 - I've done the Seafoam thing (following the instructions on the Seafoam Thread), but if MCCC is vastly superior, then I'd like to do it the right way.
So: pour it into a hot motor (via a PCV port), shut it down at once, let it sit for 30 minutes, then fire it up? Is it just that simple, or did I miss something?
How does one properly add MCCC to an LT1 - I've done the Seafoam thing (following the instructions on the Seafoam Thread), but if MCCC is vastly superior, then I'd like to do it the right way.
So: pour it into a hot motor (via a PCV port), shut it down at once, let it sit for 30 minutes, then fire it up? Is it just that simple, or did I miss something?
Shake the can pretty good, spray it into an intake vacuum port....engine idling ONLY. Do not rev it at all. Hot engine. Spray it until the can starts to run out and have a buddy turn the engine off RIGHT BEFORE the can runs out. Wait 1 hour, or longer if you want to. Then start it up and let it idle for 30 seconds. On the first page of this thread watch the video. You see how when he gives the engine little revs (nothing crazy) it smokes alot. If you get those little smoke blasts, I would sit there and rev it up and down just like that for 2-3 minutes or until that smoke stops. The more smoke you get, the more **** your burning out. After about 5 minutes of idling and revving lightly....go for a drive. Don't get on it hard until the engine is running smooth, no misfires. I would do a long easy acceleration to like 70 or 80 mph, if its all nice and smooth, go hard on it a couple times. Thats it, you're done.
.