LS1Fury!

After a lot of research on seafoam, I decided to clean my top end with MCCC instead. With much help from LS6427, I followed his instruction and injected it through the PCV port of the intake with a 3/8" fuel line. The can cost me $6 and took all of 2 minutes to do the job. After 30 minutes of letting the foam expand, all I did was start her up:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTUrJtmHePA

The real smoke show is between 1 - 2min. I am very happy with the results. I had a bit of valvetrain noise on the passenger head and that is now mysteriously gone . Idle seems to be MUCH more smooth and acceleration is cleaner as well. Feels good to have a clean engine again too . The car has 75k on it and this process has never been done. I'm sold

Also, you can hear an annoying pulley squeak in the video. It's the alternator that I put in yesterday. It's a freshly rebuilt alternator. Any idea on how to make the squeak go away other than replacing it?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Good deal.

Did it smoke more when you went for a drive?


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LS1Fury!

It did for the first WOT run and that was it. Not a whole lot much more.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Cool its probably about as clean as its gonna get.

I completely capped both vacuum ports going into my intake and I put a crank case breather on my valley cover port to the crankcase. I now have zero oil going into my intake. Its been 3 weeks and everything is great so far. I have seen my oil consumption 100% stop. I must have had a ton of oil being lost through my PCV system thorugh the intake.

Now I know some will say the oil will get toxic fumes building up and that it needs to breath better......I simply disagree. Especially when I change my oil every 3,000, which for me is like 2 months or so. No way oil can be harmed it that little time.

Here's the pics. You can see in the first pic all 3 ports capped off (2 intake and one valve cover) and in all 3 pics my breather on the valley cover crank case vent port.

Horrible design having fresh oil going into an "AIR" intake....

And again, my engine is running great, no smoke when wack the throttle and oil consumption has 100% stopped. I was adding 1 qrt. every 3 weeks, my oil is still topped off in the past 3 weeks.

LS1Fury!

Interesting design. It looks like you found a solution that many of us suffer. Time to spread the word?

I'm one of the lucky few that have 0 oil consumption problems. My oil gets changed every 3k or about every 9 months and the oil is always right where it needs to be on the dipstick before the change. I also had the intake off a couple weeks ago and there were zero signs of oil. I did the MCCC to clean the cylinder walls.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Thats cool you don't use any oil. If I were you I would do another MCCC in a week or two. You definitely have more crud in there. Not necassary, but thats just how I am.

When I was stock, I also enjoyed literally not using any between oil changes. I would drain my old oil out into the catch container, then later I would use the new/empty oil quart containers and pour the old oil into them to take to the auto parts store. I would fill 5 of them to the top. So of the 5 1/2 I put in 3,000 miles ago, there's half a quart missing and some of that was still in the engine and oil pan that wouldn't come out.

But not my 427ci. Its old, over 118,000 miles. It runs like brand new, but damn it uses alot of oil. I thought my rings were just getting bad becauase of its age.

It was the damn PCV allowing a ton of oil to go into the intake. Screw that. I wish I would have done this 4 years ago.

I;m gonna MCCC it again next week since I have no more oil going in to build up ever again. Just clean "air"

Yeah, I'll give it another month before I start a thread about this. I know for sure there's gonna be a bunch of people saying how bad it is. But if it works, their argument will be worthless, so another month or so and I'll have a better argument.


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99RTA

iTrader: (-1)

LS6427 you must change that soon or you will have a real mess. The PCV system is mostly there to remove the water vapor forced past the rings during combustion. The water mixed with combustion gases will quickly turn into acid and cause huge problems. Small aircraft engines suffer from this all the time. You will acumluate about 1 cup of water in the crankcase per gal of fuel used.

At least add a small fixed orifice pcv to the carnkcase to remove the water vapor.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I've already put at least 50 gallons of gas through it in the past 3 weeks. Where's all the water?

I 've been checking my oil 1-2 times a day while I'm experimenting with this. The oil is perfect, like it always is.

What is a fixed orifice pcv? Got a link or picture. Where do you get one?

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99RTA

iTrader: (-1)

The dealer or auto store sells the updated pcv valve used in the trucks and cars. Its a fixed orifice i think .100 hole.

You maybe getting the oil hot enough that its cooking the water out the vent you made. In colder weather i'll bet you'll notice it quickly. Once it gets into the 40's i always notice some water under my oil cap even using the standard pcv valve.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Being in south Florida, I shouldn't have that issue. My temps have been the same as they have for 7+ years with this engine and nothing forming under the cap.

But whats the deal with the fixed orifice tube....does it still use vacuum and put oil into the intake?


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john shea

I'm sold. Where can I find these caps and breather?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Breather caps are everywere for the oil fill cap. $10.00-$40.00

The little filter I put on my valley cover is a fuel filter, with a small rubber hose pushed in it, then that hose pushed into a 3/8" hose, then onto the valley cover port.

It was all like $8.00.


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Danny2tek

iTrader: (1)

gonna have to try this

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

mostly? it is there for emissions reasons, so crankcase vapors don't escape into the atmosphere when the engine is running.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCV_valve
http://www.aa1car.com/library/pcv.htm
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h63.pdf
http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/pdf/PCVBypass.pdf


where did you hear you will acumluate about 1 cup of water in the crankcase per gal of fuel used?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

There's just no way 1 cup of water can be produced with each gallon burned, that would have put gallons of water into my crankcase over the last few weeks, and there isn't a single drop.

I'm also looking into a venturi type set up with one 2 foot hose, that will pull air (vacuum) any time your car is moving. Airplanes use them for airspeed indicators, It can also have a PCV valve on it to work just like it does normally so too much oil mist does not get sucked out of the crank case while cruising long distances or at WOT.

But one things for sure......ain't no more ******* oil ever going into my intake again....thats just about the dumbest design I've ever heard of in my life. I personally think the auto makers want that oil going through there so the engine doesn't last as long. Oil build-up in the top end effects everything in-directly.

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bballr4567

iTrader: (5)

Now, where do you inject this stuff into?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Or you can spray it into the TB port just above that one. I have mine capped off.

SteelCityYaga

Have there been any issues with fouling plugs and/or hydro-lock with the Mopar Cleaner?

We've all read the horror stories about Seafoam and what it can do.

LS1Fury!

No problems whatsoever. You can see in the video that the motor turned over very easily. Unlike seafoam, I didn't have to stall the motor either.

I pulled the plugs the next day to inspect them. Here's the front 4:



Absolutely perfect condition. Plugs have about 15k on them.

SteelCityYaga

Thanks for the reply.