Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

....at least I think. After putting the car together after a head gasket swap, it started fine for a few days, then it took more and more cranks to start it. Not slow cranks, just took several times. And it's gotten worse and worse til now, if it sits overnight it'll take 4-5 tries to start. Sometimes if you try to get it to start on the first crank, it'll almost start, but have trouble idling and not quite get there, one time I even saw smoke from the engine bay after this. I'm thinking it must be something I did during the head gasket swap. I'd like to say that it started to start poorly a little bit before the head gasket problems but I just can't be sure.

So I took it to a shop after I check everything I could (fuel, ignition, etc), they had it for 2 days and said I did everything really well, and they couldn't find anything wrong except when sitting for a while, the battery drops to 8.6 volts when cranking, though specs seem normal once started and with engine off. They suggested I could try a new battery to see if that does it, but they weren't sure if that would fix it. So I gave it a shot, got a new optima red top and it didn't fix it, it was exactly the same after sitting for more than an hour. It runs fine once started and the gauge in the car is only slightly above the half way mark, but as we know that gauge isn't accurate, alternator is charging fine. BTW, when I was putting the car back together I noticed that they never bolted in the pcm ground wire to the block so I went ahead and screwed it in.......it almost seems like it started better without it.

A little background info: engine rebuilt 12k miles ago. During head gasket swap did new plugs, wires, intake and exhaust valves, msd coil, lt4 km. Not long before that I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, egr valve, ac delco opti. No surprise all of that checked out.

So what's my next step? Should I take it to a shop that specializes in electronics so they could sniff it out? I suppose when I save some more money I can try just throwing a new starter and alt on there to see what it does. BTW, it looks as though I can't remove the starter without cutting the y-pipe off (again) since my exhaust system is welded the whole way except for where it bolts to the headers.

98pontiac

Dont throw parts at it. It does not sound like a starter/alternator/battery issue at ALL. sounds ignition related, air/fuel/spark. Have a shop that gives FREE ESTIMATES check it out and tell you whats wrong... then bring it home and fix it yourself (if qualified)

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Probably a dying battery. How old is it? Any auto parts store should be able to test it for you.

Did you use any RTV during your gasket swap?

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

I put it a brand new optima red top battery yesterday and no change.

RTV? Sure I used some....but not on the head or gasket, it doesn't get any sealant. Unless you mean the head bolts, I used thread sealant and moly lube on those. Were you thinking something went wrong and I'm not getting compression? I had that thought....


It doesn't? Hmmm, I'll have to find a good shop that does that....there aren't really, I only know of transmission shops and exhaust shops that do that around here, I guess I'll have to ask around. Since I'm willing to accept that it may be ignition related, I'll try a few things (ie: go back to stock coil). After all, it seems to me that fuel is easy to rule out - pressure is always good and there is no leakdown - but ignition is much harder to find so it might be the culprit.

Thanks.

Crimsonnaire

iTrader: (1)

Given the key clues you brought up:

1, This problem could've been around before your project,
2, Smoke was seen in the engine bay during a failed start,
3, Charge gauge dipped low during a crank attempt,

I would be inclined to suspect a problem with the spark plug wires/coils/packs. One thing in particular I would recommend extra caution is to ensure that there isn't any bad electric connection or short-inducing contacts between surfaces because you have many electronics would be at risk. Fuses prevent surges above a certain level, but the fact of matter is that some or more of the electronics can be blown/damaged before the surge level is reached for the fuse to blow, which I personally experienced. Double check the ignition accessories including the adjacent intake and exhaust portions, such as obstructions in the intake manifold or idle air control valve or bad oxygen sensors. By the way, if you remove the plugs, pay attention to any further clues that might be given by the plug tips, such as excessive carbon/oil buildup.

Finally, the symptoms you're describing aught to be serious enough to have corresponding check engine codes come up, so be sure to have your codes identified if the light is on.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

No - With RTV, you need to make sure its sensor-safe. If not, it can foul emissions sensors.

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

I also removed my ac firewall box and put a cover during the head gasket change, I kept the vacuum line, but is there any ground there that I may have missed or cut thinking it was a regular wire?

I'm not getting any codes.

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

when it nearly starts, but dies on the first crank after sitting, I see smoke sometimes....This time IO ran out and looked and it seemed to be originating from around the air filter area....I jack the car up and look under there, ground seems okay, but what is this box to the left of the air filter with wires going to it? I think the smoke may be coming from there.

I think it's the cruise control module....could this possibly affect starting and can I just take it out.

EDIT: It's the air filter.....the air filter itself is smoking! What does this mean?

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

here's some video of it almost starting, then starting

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t=9-08_002.flv

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t=9-08_003.flv

Marc3.4V6

iTrader: (1)

Does it mean anything if the "check gauges" and "service engine soon" lights stay on when I prime the fuel pump? It goes away when I start the car, but I thought those lights are all supposed to go away.