Clean vs. Milky/Contaminated Dexcool
#3
But the fluid is kind of orange looking and "foggy." I'm not sure if it is what you would call "milky"
The coolant was flushed completely a year and a half ago.
#4
TECH Resident
iTrader: (8)
I just had my coolant flushed yesterday, the dexcool is supposed to be an orange color. If it's like some brown nasty color with chunks in it then it's bad. Mine was shot it was really gross. So I'm thinking if it's still orange and there is nothing in it your coolant should be fine.
#5
I just had my coolant flushed yesterday, the dexcool is supposed to be an orange color. If it's like some brown nasty color with chunks in it then it's bad. Mine was shot it was really gross. So I'm thinking if it's still orange and there is nothing in it your coolant should be fine.
But I want to make sure I don't have an issue.
No white smoke out the exhaust, no coolant in oil, no oil in coolant, I don't see any leaks on pavement or inside the engine bay. Meh.
Screw it, I guess it's fine. But it's annoying. I guess if the sucker blows up it blows up, lol.
#6
Banned
iTrader: (2)
Yeah I'm just worried because I have a slow leak in the coolant. Like really slow, though. As in it gets low enough to trip the "low coolant sensor" after 9 months after being filled, which isn't that much.
But I want to make sure I don't have an issue.
No white smoke out the exhaust, no coolant in oil, no oil in coolant, I don't see any leaks on pavement or inside the engine bay. Meh.
Screw it, I guess it's fine. But it's annoying. I guess if the sucker blows up it blows up, lol.
But I want to make sure I don't have an issue.
No white smoke out the exhaust, no coolant in oil, no oil in coolant, I don't see any leaks on pavement or inside the engine bay. Meh.
Screw it, I guess it's fine. But it's annoying. I guess if the sucker blows up it blows up, lol.
And I think the way you explain how your coolant looks is fine.
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#12
So does that mean the coolant never did go into the overflow reservoir?
#13
Banned
iTrader: (2)
Only other way to lose coolant is a cracked block or head...or a blown head gasket. If its a very small hole in the head gasket you wouldn't just over heat immediately, it will be a progressing problem that will get worse and worse.
Getting a new radiator cap is the cheapest, quickest thing to rule out. The other tests aren't so friendly.
OR....a slow, small leak in a hose that you just haven't seen yet.
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#14
Hmmm. Well, while you're driving if the radiator cap is losing its tension and the coolant is getting pushed out there will be some that escapes as steam and won't go into the over flow.
Only other way to lose coolant is a cracked block or head...or a blown head gasket. If its a very small hole in the head gasket you wouldn't just over heat immediately, it will be a progressing problem that will get worse and worse.
Getting a new radiator cap is the cheapest, quickest thing to rule out. The other tests aren't so friendly.
OR....a slow, small leak in a hose that you just haven't seen yet.
.
Only other way to lose coolant is a cracked block or head...or a blown head gasket. If its a very small hole in the head gasket you wouldn't just over heat immediately, it will be a progressing problem that will get worse and worse.
Getting a new radiator cap is the cheapest, quickest thing to rule out. The other tests aren't so friendly.
OR....a slow, small leak in a hose that you just haven't seen yet.
.
Well I plan to drive it around as normal as it has never over heated (even taking 5 hr trips in 105 degree weather) and check the rad level every day or so. If it keeps getting lower and lower I'll get a new cap.
And if that fails, I guess it's time for more serious tests.
Thats about all I can do at the moment, I think?