Powersteering leak
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Chelsea, Michigan
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2009
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it will probably take all day if you plan on doing it in the garage.. maybe longer depending on how skilled you are... you can upgrade to a manual rack or aftermarket stock replacement, a guess would be 200 dollars.. you also need an alignment after you are all done, which is around 75 dollars for a basic up to 200 dollars...
Seal conditioner is bullshit, meant for used car lots to stop leaks long enough for the guy not to bring the car back for warranty. It might stop a small leak temporarily, but it actually damages seals by swelling them. Including the PS pump seal.
If you're keeping your car, replace the rack.
it should only take an hour or 2 it's really easy... i would get an extra rack bolt from the dealer before you replace it... there are 2 bolts that hold the rack in and they go in from the top... one you can remove easily but the other will hit the oil pan... the easiest thing to do is to use a hacksaw or air saw and cut the head of that bolt off so it will fall out the bottom and put the new bolt in from the bottom with the nut on top... some red threadlocker is good for a little extra safety... once it's tightened down it's not gonna go anywhere so don't worry... if you don't feel comfortable with this then you will have to pop your mounts loose and jack the motor up high enough for the bolt to slide out... the rest of it is cake, bust the tie rods loose, take the 2 lines loose, and it will slide right out the front... i replaced my tie rod ends when i did my rack since i had it out and then get your alignment done and you're all set... oreilly has remanufactured racks for around $250 and they are lifetime warranty, that's what i went with
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What if you put the bolt in from the bottom, tighten it down with the nut on top. Then mark the bolt right up close to the nut. Then take it back out and drill a hole so you can put a cotter pin in there after the nut goes on?
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Tulsa, OK
Works great until it doesn't tighten back up to the same spot.
that would be a good idea in theory but if i remember correctly there isn't enough thread sticking out from the end of the nut for you to drill a hole for a cotter pin... you could possibly get a longer bolt but you have to be careful because there isn't much room between that bolt and your oil pan... i have had mine like this with thread locker on it since i replaced the rack and it isn't going anywhere unless i ever have to take it back off... it's not a moving part and i highly doubt it would be able to rattle itself loose
