Motul Oil
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Motul Oil My friend is suggesting I cough up the money and start using Motul oil. It is about $15 a liter (1.05 quarts) but is supposedly good stuff. I don't even know which weight to get to try it out. Searching yielded almost nothing more than people mentioning it in passing. Any gurus here know the deal?
Launching!
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My friend is suggesting I cough up the money and start using Motul oil. It is about $15 a liter (1.05 quarts) but is supposedly good stuff. I don't even know which weight to get to try it out. Searching yielded almost nothing more than people mentioning it in passing. Any gurus here know the deal?
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Ugh. It is so strange that there is no information on usage of (supposedly) one of the best oils in one of the most popular engines. My buddy tells me that people see hp increases, and cooler temps over other synthetics. All he needed to say was cooler temps and I am down. Just want to know what weight I should run. I used:
Royal Purple 5w30
Mobil 1 0w40
German Castrol 0w30
It varies between oil manufacturer so you never really know which one is best for the motor. I am going to sign up on bobistheoilguy.com and see if any LS1 guys use Motul over there.
Royal Purple 5w30
Mobil 1 0w40
German Castrol 0w30
It varies between oil manufacturer so you never really know which one is best for the motor. I am going to sign up on bobistheoilguy.com and see if any LS1 guys use Motul over there.
Hey:
If your going to use any of those oils why not consider two US companies that make maybe the best oils Redline or Klotz look at the website of either and you see why they are used. no bs, no crazy claims, just about every major race team uses them and they don't get it for free, they pay for it. There is a reason for that. Also Motul is good but really no better than Amsoil, Mobile One, or Castrol Edge. IMHO Royal Purple is not in the same league as the above, look up why they were sued and lost, their claims were not proven or accurate.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
If your going to use any of those oils why not consider two US companies that make maybe the best oils Redline or Klotz look at the website of either and you see why they are used. no bs, no crazy claims, just about every major race team uses them and they don't get it for free, they pay for it. There is a reason for that. Also Motul is good but really no better than Amsoil, Mobile One, or Castrol Edge. IMHO Royal Purple is not in the same league as the above, look up why they were sued and lost, their claims were not proven or accurate.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Motul is probably one of those oils that are WAY better than all of the off-the-shelf oil is...like Mobil 1, Castrol, Pennzoil, Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc....
I'm going to use Hydrotex for my new engine, their "Racing 15w50".
These types of oils put the off-the-shelf oils to shame.......but they're expensive. 12 quarts costs $155.00 for the Hydrotex.
Ask "fleetmgr" about oils, he knows whats up........I spoke to Hydrotex, their oil is no joke.
.
I'm going to use Hydrotex for my new engine, their "Racing 15w50".
These types of oils put the off-the-shelf oils to shame.......but they're expensive. 12 quarts costs $155.00 for the Hydrotex.
Ask "fleetmgr" about oils, he knows whats up........I spoke to Hydrotex, their oil is no joke.
.
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conflicting information. i just got onto bobistheoilguy.com and they have little info on motul. i will ask fleetmgr or maybe email motul about usage. if a better oil really will make an engine run cooler, than i will pay a premium for it. simple as that. my car really only gets driven 5-10k miles a year, which equates to two oil changes a year. Its insignificant. I plan on taking my car racing next year too, so I'd like the extra insurance of having great oil.
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conflicting information. i just got onto bobistheoilguy.com and they have little info on motul. i will ask fleetmgr or maybe email motul about usage. if a better oil really will make an engine run cooler, than i will pay a premium for it. simple as that. my car really only gets driven 5-10k miles a year, which equates to two oil changes a year. Its insignificant. I plan on taking my car racing next year too, so I'd like the extra insurance of having great oil.
.
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Verdad Gallardo Hey:
Motul is an ester based synthetic, made in Europe just like US Redline, Euro Repsol, and US Klotz. Test after test on pure HP numbers, those 4 are close with Redline and Klotz doing very well, the top 2 places and Repsol, Motul, and US Bel-Ray, usually rounding out the top 5 in motorsports HP oil tests. All are priced within range of each other But if you look at NHRA, IHRA, NASCAR, F1, and WOO Supersprints. Redline is the Oil more champ cars use, than any other.
Most Ester base oils have cooler running temps and higher temp protection than other synths that use petrol chems. Don't get hung up on your buddies fav.
All these oils can do what the other does. Most have a short in car life, no more than 90 to 120 days. (most NHRA nitro cars get changed after being in for less than 2 minutes) They are not pickle oils, that are NOT meant for long term storage, as they make special oils for that, that help keep corrosion under control, when not in use. If you want an oil that is of high quality but not a 100% synth oil
Then try the green Brad Penn oil 0w30, (or whatever Vis you need), formerly Kendall Racing Oil as it may meet your needs better than an Ester Synth oil. As it clings to metal for storage and you can run your car with it in all temps, while still fighting internal corrosion
Thats just some info you may want to consider as it sounds like your car sits a lot and a Ester Synth oil may not be your best choice.
Good luck on whatever you choose.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Motul is an ester based synthetic, made in Europe just like US Redline, Euro Repsol, and US Klotz. Test after test on pure HP numbers, those 4 are close with Redline and Klotz doing very well, the top 2 places and Repsol, Motul, and US Bel-Ray, usually rounding out the top 5 in motorsports HP oil tests. All are priced within range of each other But if you look at NHRA, IHRA, NASCAR, F1, and WOO Supersprints. Redline is the Oil more champ cars use, than any other.
Most Ester base oils have cooler running temps and higher temp protection than other synths that use petrol chems. Don't get hung up on your buddies fav.
All these oils can do what the other does. Most have a short in car life, no more than 90 to 120 days. (most NHRA nitro cars get changed after being in for less than 2 minutes) They are not pickle oils, that are NOT meant for long term storage, as they make special oils for that, that help keep corrosion under control, when not in use. If you want an oil that is of high quality but not a 100% synth oil
Then try the green Brad Penn oil 0w30, (or whatever Vis you need), formerly Kendall Racing Oil as it may meet your needs better than an Ester Synth oil. As it clings to metal for storage and you can run your car with it in all temps, while still fighting internal corrosion
Thats just some info you may want to consider as it sounds like your car sits a lot and a Ester Synth oil may not be your best choice.
Good luck on whatever you choose.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Last edited by 1993 z28 f1; Nov 30, 2009 at 03:31 PM. Reason: spacing
Thread Starter
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From: Franklin Lakes, NJ
Hey:
Motul is an ester based synthetic, made in Europe just like US Redline, Euro Repsol, and US Klotz. Test after test on pure HP numbers, those 4 are close with Redline and Klotz doing very well, the top 2 places and Repsol, Motul, and US Bel-Ray, usually rounding out the top 5 in motorsports HP oil tests. All are priced within range of each other But if you look at NHRA, IHRA, NASCAR, F1, and WOO Supersprints. Redline is the Oil more champ cars use, than any other.
Most Ester base oils have cooler running temps and higher temp protection than other synths that use petrol chems. Don't get hung up on your buddies fav.
All these oils can do what the other does. Most have a short in car life, no more than 90 to 120 days. (most NHRA nitro cars get changed after being in for less than 2 minutes) They are not pickle oils, that are NOT meant for long term storage, as they make special oils for that, that help keep corrosion under control, when not in use. If you want an oil that is of high quality but not a 100% synth oil
Then try the green Brad Penn oil 0w30, (or whatever Vis you need), formerly Kendall Racing Oil as it may meet your needs better than an Ester Synth oil. As it clings to metal for storage and you can run your car with it in all temps, while still fighting internal corrosion
Thats just some info you may want to consider as it sounds like your car sits a lot and a Ester Synth oil may not be your best choice.
Good luck on whatever you choose.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Motul is an ester based synthetic, made in Europe just like US Redline, Euro Repsol, and US Klotz. Test after test on pure HP numbers, those 4 are close with Redline and Klotz doing very well, the top 2 places and Repsol, Motul, and US Bel-Ray, usually rounding out the top 5 in motorsports HP oil tests. All are priced within range of each other But if you look at NHRA, IHRA, NASCAR, F1, and WOO Supersprints. Redline is the Oil more champ cars use, than any other.
Most Ester base oils have cooler running temps and higher temp protection than other synths that use petrol chems. Don't get hung up on your buddies fav.
All these oils can do what the other does. Most have a short in car life, no more than 90 to 120 days. (most NHRA nitro cars get changed after being in for less than 2 minutes) They are not pickle oils, that are NOT meant for long term storage, as they make special oils for that, that help keep corrosion under control, when not in use. If you want an oil that is of high quality but not a 100% synth oil
Then try the green Brad Penn oil 0w30, (or whatever Vis you need), formerly Kendall Racing Oil as it may meet your needs better than an Ester Synth oil. As it clings to metal for storage and you can run your car with it in all temps, while still fighting internal corrosion
Thats just some info you may want to consider as it sounds like your car sits a lot and a Ester Synth oil may not be your best choice.
Good luck on whatever you choose.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Good info. I guess if I do start racing, I will switch to some of this ester based oil, but it seems like Amsoil or GC is plenty for normal street driving. Still wondering what weight of Motul I should use though. Oil is so complicated
You know what man....people do put way too much into choosing an oil. Its pretty funny really.
I've been using regular (non-sythetic) cheap *** Castrol GTX 20w50 in my 427ci and it has over 125,000 miles and its perfect, never had a single internal issue yet. Synthetics, waste of money for no gains.
The one and only "key" to long engine life is "CLEAN OIL". Do oil changes at 3,000 miles and you will be doing more good for your engine than using any type of super-duper special oils and filters.
I am however going to use Hydrotex 15w50 on my new engine, just because I want to run my engine for as long as it'll run properly, strong and silent, to see if a very expensive, semi-exotic oil makes any differences that I can notice. My own little experiment.
If the top of the line type oils can't make my new engine reach 125,000 miles and still be in perfect shape.....does that mean that regular old cheap *** motor oil is better....just as good....what????? Its all about keeping it clean in my opinion. We'll see.
.
Last edited by LS6427; Nov 30, 2009 at 05:45 PM.
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At 6 months, that oil is useless.
Its not complicated at all really.............its marketing.
You know what man....people do put way too much into choosing an oil. Its pretty funny really.
I've been using regular (non-sythetic) cheap *** Castrol GTX 20w50 in my 427ci and it has over 125,000 miles and its perfect, never had a single internal issue yet. Synthetics, waste of money for no gains.
The one and only "key" to long engine life is "CLEAN OIL". Do oil changes at 3,000 miles and you will be doing more good for your engine than using any type of super-duper special oils and filters.
I am however going to use Hydrotex 15w50 on my new engine, just because I want to run my engine for as long as it'll run properly, strong and silent, to see if a very expensive, semi-exotic oil makes any differences that I can notice. My own little experiment.
If the top of the line type oils can't make my new engine reach 125,000 miles and still be in perfect shape.....does that mean that regular old cheap *** motor oil is better....just as good....what????? Its all about keeping it clean in my opinion. We'll see.
.
Its not complicated at all really.............its marketing.
You know what man....people do put way too much into choosing an oil. Its pretty funny really.
I've been using regular (non-sythetic) cheap *** Castrol GTX 20w50 in my 427ci and it has over 125,000 miles and its perfect, never had a single internal issue yet. Synthetics, waste of money for no gains.
The one and only "key" to long engine life is "CLEAN OIL". Do oil changes at 3,000 miles and you will be doing more good for your engine than using any type of super-duper special oils and filters.
I am however going to use Hydrotex 15w50 on my new engine, just because I want to run my engine for as long as it'll run properly, strong and silent, to see if a very expensive, semi-exotic oil makes any differences that I can notice. My own little experiment.
If the top of the line type oils can't make my new engine reach 125,000 miles and still be in perfect shape.....does that mean that regular old cheap *** motor oil is better....just as good....what????? Its all about keeping it clean in my opinion. We'll see.
.
I check my oil regularly. The oil still appears clean and is still VERY viscous. 6 months isn't a huge amount of time relatively, so I don't see why that is. I believe you, and will probaby swap it out and start changing it more frequently, but in truth, the oil seems fine
But oil keeps breaking down over time once its been run in an engine even if its just sitting. Its like the clock starts ticking.
.
Hey:
One of the advantages of the Ester based oils is colors Redline, Klotz are a blood red, and very easy to tell when dirty. Bel Ray is Blue, some are yellow or orange. The Brad Penn is a inexpensive petrol oil with Synth additives blended in, and It is green. One of the best things IMHO about colored oils is that they allow an easy way to track of how dirty your engine oil is or getting to be.
Me I change oil at 5,000 miles but do new filters every 2,500 or when just starting to discolor. If it still is not real clean looking I change it. It is a good gauge for me and I check it at every gasoline fill up. I have 3 vehicles that I drive that have over 350,000 miles, one with 690,000 and a air cooled motorcycle with 179,000. My original 93 has over 230,000 miles of very hard use with over a hundred trips down the quarter mile strip. They are all on the original bottom ends. The only way I have been able to have this luck so far is with routine oil and filter changes. I try to never let my oil go dirty as the only time I ran a car into the ground and it didn't last was when I did not follow this routine, and it was also a Ford.
Also an oil evaluation is a good way to learn more about your oil and needed change intervals.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
One of the advantages of the Ester based oils is colors Redline, Klotz are a blood red, and very easy to tell when dirty. Bel Ray is Blue, some are yellow or orange. The Brad Penn is a inexpensive petrol oil with Synth additives blended in, and It is green. One of the best things IMHO about colored oils is that they allow an easy way to track of how dirty your engine oil is or getting to be.
Me I change oil at 5,000 miles but do new filters every 2,500 or when just starting to discolor. If it still is not real clean looking I change it. It is a good gauge for me and I check it at every gasoline fill up. I have 3 vehicles that I drive that have over 350,000 miles, one with 690,000 and a air cooled motorcycle with 179,000. My original 93 has over 230,000 miles of very hard use with over a hundred trips down the quarter mile strip. They are all on the original bottom ends. The only way I have been able to have this luck so far is with routine oil and filter changes. I try to never let my oil go dirty as the only time I ran a car into the ground and it didn't last was when I did not follow this routine, and it was also a Ford.
Also an oil evaluation is a good way to learn more about your oil and needed change intervals.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Launching!
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I don't drive my car very often. Purchased it new in January 05 and it now has 14,500 miles on it. I have put less then 2000 miles on it in the past 30 months. My oil gets changed once or twice a year at the most. I add Lucas Full Synthetic Oil Stabilizer with most oil changes. I was concerned about leaving the same oil in my car for extended periods of time but with very very low miles between changes. Had my oil & filter analized a year or so ago after being in my car for around 8 months and around 6-7 hundred miles at that time. Near zero viscosity break down , no chemical or contamination problems. The oil was still fine. I will continue to change my oil once or twice a year as long as my mileage stays low.
Last edited by JJD49; Dec 13, 2009 at 09:11 AM.
I've been trying to tell people this for years but people really don't listen. They keep trying new synthetics, special filters and letting their oil go 5,000-6,000 miles because the MANUFACTURER said its ok. But these are also the same people who's engine don't last as long as mine do, NEVER.
I change it every 3,000 with a new filter. I do know a few people who let the oil go 4,000-5,000 but they do like you and change the filter every 2,000-3,000....which is the KEY if you want to let the oil go past 3,000. I just do both at 3,000.
Clean oil is more important than the brand or type of oil used. Fact.
.
Last edited by LS6427; Nov 30, 2009 at 07:02 PM.
I don't drive my car very often. Purchased it new in January 05 and it now has 14,500 miles on it. I have put less then 2000 miles on it in the past 30 months. My oil gets changed once or twice a year at the most. I add Lucas Full Synthetic Oil Stabilizer with every oil change. I was concerned about leaving the same oil in my car for extended periods of time but with very very low miles between changes. Had my oil & filter analized a few years ago after being in my car for around 8 months and around 6-7 hundred miles at that time. Near zero viscosity break down , no chemical or contamination problems. The oil was still fine. I will continue to change my oil once or twice a year as long as my mileage stays low.
.
Hey:
Truer words have never been said!!!
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
LS6427 :I've been trying to tell people this for years but people really don't listen. Clean oil is more important than the brand or type of oil used. Fact.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
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From: Tulsa, OK
conflicting information. i just got onto bobistheoilguy.com and they have little info on motul. i will ask fleetmgr or maybe email motul about usage. if a better oil really will make an engine run cooler, than i will pay a premium for it. simple as that. my car really only gets driven 5-10k miles a year, which equates to two oil changes a year. Its insignificant. I plan on taking my car racing next year too, so I'd like the extra insurance of having great oil.
I have seen premium tranny fluids drop the temp in an automatic by over 100 degrees under normal loads, though. You'll never see it happen with any off the shelf oil, however.
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Absolutely. All are snake oil, waiting to separate a fool from his money. It's amazing how much money those companies make off advertising hype and unsupportable claims.