Car won't turn over. I'm out of ideas, frustrated.
#21
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you can find the resistance value your self with a multimeter and your car key. Just put one probe of the multimeter on each side of the "chip" in your key and it gives you the resistance value of the key. Go to radio shack, get resistors to equal within +-10 of that value, and whala. Done. When my vats went out, I couldnt get the car to start at all. The key did nothing.
#22
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I talked to the guy who tuned my car. He reminded me that we disabled the vats. Just for fun I tried the second key. Car still wouldn't start.
Does anyone know what the white plunger that's pressed by the clutch petal when it returns to the upper part?
Does anyone know what the white plunger that's pressed by the clutch petal when it returns to the upper part?
#23
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Clutch pedal anticipation switch. Basically kills the cruise and tells the PCM you pushed in the clutch.
Here is a good explanation.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...does-work.html
Also, here is the ignition switch circuit diagram.
Here is a good explanation.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...does-work.html
Also, here is the ignition switch circuit diagram.
#24
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New developments / observations
I installed a temporary momentary switch jumping the starter resistor so that I can start the car from the driver's seat. The car is still on jack stands and I was trying to see if the transmission would turn the rear tires in the first 4 gears (super low rpm, and YES!) I notices that the oil pressure gauge was all the way maxed out, and the fuel gauge was all the way at the bottom.
This HAS to be related.
At least I'm now at a point where I can put the car on the ground and drive it a little.
Think, think, think.
I installed a temporary momentary switch jumping the starter resistor so that I can start the car from the driver's seat. The car is still on jack stands and I was trying to see if the transmission would turn the rear tires in the first 4 gears (super low rpm, and YES!) I notices that the oil pressure gauge was all the way maxed out, and the fuel gauge was all the way at the bottom.
This HAS to be related.
At least I'm now at a point where I can put the car on the ground and drive it a little.
Think, think, think.
#27
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A maxed out gauge is a sign of a grounded wire. Dunno about an unresponsive gauge though. You can set my transmission on fire, and then shoot it, cause it's about to be toast.
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#28
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UPDATE
All needle gauges are non-functional except the voltage. IGN relay under the hood is good, starter relay is good, all fuses appear (check twice, once with multi-meter) good. There is a dead circuit somewhere thats IGN related. Lights on the dash blackout during the "START" process. This seems normal.
Any ideas???
All needle gauges are non-functional except the voltage. IGN relay under the hood is good, starter relay is good, all fuses appear (check twice, once with multi-meter) good. There is a dead circuit somewhere thats IGN related. Lights on the dash blackout during the "START" process. This seems normal.
Any ideas???
#29
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Another update:
Upon further inspection, I have decided that the starter relay does not have a ground source. It hits 12 volts while cranking, and when bypassed with a jumper wire, the starter operates. But there is no ground on the activation side of the relay. So obviously the relay cannot be activated bc it cannot complete the circuit to engage. So maybe there is a ground that wasnt put back on after being removed.....
Upon further inspection, I have decided that the starter relay does not have a ground source. It hits 12 volts while cranking, and when bypassed with a jumper wire, the starter operates. But there is no ground on the activation side of the relay. So obviously the relay cannot be activated bc it cannot complete the circuit to engage. So maybe there is a ground that wasnt put back on after being removed.....