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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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Default Struggling Upon Acceleration

My car is a 2000 Firebird 3.8L V6 M5
Had to make a quick run to the post office today. So as I started the car everything sounded/seemed fine. As I pulled away from campus I noticed a "sputtering" type hesitation. I thought maybe I needed some gas, so I filled up and continued on my way.
If I ease on the accelerator the car seems to respond fine, but if I go anything above half throttle the car starts to jerk, hesitate and sputter.
It almost feels like like I'm bogging the engine (driving 40mph in 5th gear and trying to accelerate for example) but it happens in all gears. I left it in 3rd and eased it up to about 2.5kRPMs and all was good, but if I pushed it past 3.5k the car began to jerk bad like it was bogging out.
I swung by Vatozone on the way home and the SES light checked. It read Sensor 1 O2. It didn't specify Bank 1 or 2.
I was expecting my sensor 2 to be giving the light since I don't have a CAT but sensor 1 popping up kind of surprised me.
Could this be causing these issues?
Any help would be great!
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 06:15 PM
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Yup, thats the exact symptoms of a failing or failed 02 sensor.

www.rockauto.com

Buy the Denso sensors $45.00 each with long 11.81" long wires. Do not buy Bosch.

.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Yup, thats the exact symptoms of a failing or failed 02 sensor.

www.rockauto.com

Buy the Denso sensors $45.00 each with long 11.81" long wires. Do not buy Bosch.

.
Thanks for the quick response.
Couple more questions for you.
I had the guy at Autozone print me out the list of different sensors they had for sale.
Bosch and Denso are the only 2 brands they carry.
For the Denso (before the CAT) there are:
Universal Non-heated - 41.99
O.E. type Heated - 68.99
O.E. type Non-heated - 74.99
Universal - 81.99
Denso (after the CAT):
O.E. Type - 92.99
Universal - 81.99

Can you shed any light as to the difference in the ones I listed, also as to why Denso>Bosch (except for in price, haha).
Thanks!
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 08:23 PM
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Bump for you "homeskillet". Good luck with that!

Last edited by SnIpEz; Jan 19, 2010 at 08:38 PM.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 08:59 PM
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Denso sensors are superior to Bosch. In fact, if you order AC Delco sensors from the dealership, you will get a fancy AC Delco box, with a nice little bag inside that contains a Denso sensor.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Super-Bat
Thanks for the quick response.
Couple more questions for you.
I had the guy at Autozone print me out the list of different sensors they had for sale.
Bosch and Denso are the only 2 brands they carry.
For the Denso (before the CAT) there are:
Universal Non-heated - 41.99
O.E. type Heated - 68.99
O.E. type Non-heated - 74.99
Universal - 81.99
Denso (after the CAT):
O.E. Type - 92.99
Universal - 81.99

Can you shed any light as to the difference in the ones I listed, also as to why Denso>Bosch (except for in price, haha).
Thanks!

As "ZexGx" said....Densos blow Bosch sensors away. GM now uses them as their own sensors of choice. They are a much better design then the factory AC Delco sensors. Bosch will either work or they will not work in different cars. Bosch sensors literally won't allow my engine to run.
And yes...do not go to the dealer, you will pay upwards of $180.00 for the same exact Denso from rockauto.com.

On rockauto.com for $35.70..DENSO Part # 2344018 ...I think thats the sensor you want. And like I said, all the sensors are the same, the wire lengths are what makes different part numbers. I always tell peopel to just buy the 11.81" long sensors and just zip-tie the extra length. The longer wire ones are like $12.00 or so more.

I'm not sure what the deal is with "non-heated" sensors.

If I were you I would call rockauto.com 1-866-762-5288 and just tell them which position sensor you need and either get that exact one in a Denso or get the 11.81" long ones and have extra slack.

.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 12:43 AM
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I may need to be using the car. Apart from feeling like crap, is it safe to drive the car in it's current condition?
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 02:20 AM
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Not really... I wouldn't, unless you feel like fouling your spark plugs & potentially causing more damage.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Super-Bat
I may need to be using the car. Apart from feeling like crap, is it safe to drive the car in it's current condition?
If you must you need to be VERY gradual on the throttle and DO NOT rev it high, drive it like a dying grandma. EASY on acceleration on the way up especially!

Its terrible to drive a car when its misfiring/missing. If its doing that, don't drive it. You could actually lose an engine when its misfiring/missing and you go heavy on the throttle. Detonation can hurt you too.

After you fix it, run a full can of Sea Foam through 1/4 tank of gas to clean your plugs. I do this every 3-4 months as general maintenance, been doing it for like 10 years.

.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
If you must you need to be VERY gradual on the throttle and DO NOT rev it high, drive it like a dying grandma. EASY on acceleration on the way up especially!

Its terrible to drive a car when its misfiring/missing. If its doing that, don't drive it. You could actually lose an engine when its misfiring/missing and you go heavy on the throttle. Detonation can hurt you too.

After you fix it, run a full can of Sea Foam through 1/4 tank of gas to clean your plugs. I do this every 3-4 months as general maintenance, been doing it for like 10 years.

.
I plan on changing my plugs/wires at the time of changing the o2's.
I'm scared to run Sea Foam for fear every leak in my car will suddenly appear all at once.
I want to wait until I actually have money to fix them.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Super-Bat
I plan on changing my plugs/wires at the time of changing the o2's.
I'm scared to run Sea Foam for fear every leak in my car will suddenly appear all at once.
I want to wait until I actually have money to fix them.
Just cleaning the fuel system with Sea Foam can't hurt anything. Its really no more intense than gasoline is, except it will clean dirt that gas won't.

.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 12:29 PM
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Thanks so much for your help LS6427.
I need to get the car fixed ASAP so I'm sacrificing saving the money by going through rockauto.
I called a local AC Delco/OE parts store to see about getting parts at wholesale prices.
The AC Delco sensors are over $100/ea.
I was able get the Denso down to ~$50/ea. Alot cheaper than getting them through Vatozone.
Question. My car has 2 o2 sensor before the cat and one after. I don't have a cat so there's no real reason to replace the sensor post cat, correct? Because it'll probably just foul out right away anyway?
So, do I need to replace both sensors before the cat or just one?
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Super-Bat
Thanks so much for your help LS6427.
I need to get the car fixed ASAP so I'm sacrificing saving the money by going through rockauto.
I called a local AC Delco/OE parts store to see about getting parts at wholesale prices.
The AC Delco sensors are over $100/ea.
I was able get the Denso down to ~$50/ea. Alot cheaper than getting them through Vatozone.
Question. My car has 2 o2 sensor before the cat and one after. I don't have a cat so there's no real reason to replace the sensor post cat, correct? Because it'll probably just foul out right away anyway?
So, do I need to replace both sensors before the cat or just one?
I know with the V8 LSx's we have to delete the rear 02 sensors via PCM programming. Not sure what you V6 guys have to do. I'm sure someone else can answer that question.
But I would think that if that rear 02 sensor is still active, you'll need a sensor in there.

.
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
I know with the V8 LSx's we have to delete the rear 02 sensors via PCM programming. Not sure what you V6 guys have to do. I'm sure someone else can answer that question.
But I would think that if that rear 02 sensor is still active, you'll need a sensor in there.

.
Yeah, post cat sensor would need to be deleted via PCM, until then it's going to keep triggering the SES light. I figure the lack of cat would cause it to foul out anyway. Plus, the rear sensor is really expensive, so I'm going to hold off on getting that one, since I doubt that one would actually affect how my car performs.

Unless I'm completely way off. Does the post-cat sensor do anything?
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Old Jan 27, 2010 | 02:28 AM
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*update*
Both o2 sensors (before the cat) were replaced.
Spark plugs and plug wires were also replaced.

Now, the car runs great and just like it did before!
However, sometimes, if waiting at a light for a while, I can hear (hear only. no visible signs ie; tach) that the car seems to be idling funny.
Not sure how to describe it except for the low rumble seems to be interrupted every few seconds with a kind of chop. The chop feels like it vibrates through the car, but very subtle and nothing major. But it's noticeable.
The car idles at I guess around 700rpms. That's normal, right?

Just curious what could be causing this... it's only once in awhile.
When it does happen it seems like getting higher in the RPM levels like in 3rd of 4th gear the car kinda struggles for a second or two and then catches.
Any ideas?
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 12:19 AM
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bump...
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 01:42 AM
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Sounds like dirty fuel injectors or fuel filter possibly.

Did you get Densos?

.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Sounds like dirty fuel injectors or fuel filter possibly.

Did you get Densos?

.
My filter should be fairly new, considering it's been less than a year since it was replaced.
Injectors... should I run a fuel cleaner through a tank of gas?
Yes, I got the Densos.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Super-Bat
My filter should be fairly new, considering it's been less than a year since it was replaced.
Injectors... should I run a fuel cleaner through a tank of gas?
Yes, I got the Densos.
Run a FULL can of Sea Foam in 1/4 tank of gas. Yes, thats fine to do and not too strong. I've been doing it for 8 years on these injectors and 12 years on my car in total.

Also, make sure that none of your spark plug wires are touching any metal exhaust piping, that will make it run rough. Also, make sure each end of each spark plug wire is snapped on to the coils/spark plugs real good.

.
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Old Jan 29, 2010 | 10:17 PM
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Try checking the coil packs - your first problem sounded like a combination of plugs/wires/coil packs - you've done 2/3....
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