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Car shut off and won't stay running

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Old 02-16-2010, 09:48 AM
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Default Car shut off and won't stay running

Ok, so I have an ls1 with ls6 heads and intake manifold. Lots of bolt one and a good tune. Also have bigger injectors and 255 fuel pump.

Was driving down the road day before yesterday when the car sputtered a little bit. I kept driving and though...that was funny. I get another half mile down the road and it sputtered again. I down shifted and hit the gas and it was fine. So I continue driving and get another half mile and the car started to sputter bad like it was out of gas, then it shut off. I pull over and tried to start it up and it cranked right back up. So i start driving to the nearest autoparts store which was oreillys. Before I get there the car shut off again and I had enough momentum to coast in. So I parked and went in to borrow a obdii code reader. I tested and it pulled 14 trouble codes. Most were there from the motor being originally auto and it was switched to manual, and also going fro
a chevy car to Nissan 240sx. So I cleared the codes out and tried to start the car. It fires up for about five seconds and shuts off. I checked the codes again...nohing wrong. I turn the key on to listen for the fuel pump. I can hear it. I took off the fuel filter to check for clogs. Everything fine. There is pressure too. I got the car towed to myocal shop and the next day, they had a chance to look at it. He cranked it up and it ran fine. I said no way. Asked if he drove it and he said no. So I came down there and drove the car down the road and back. I was just about to leave while the car was idling, when it started to sputter again and it fell on it's face and shut off again. I have no clue what is going on. Someone said that the fuel pump could be going out. They said to check the pressure with a gauge because ls motors need 60-70 psi of fuel pressure to run or something. Supposedly it could be dropping to around 20 or so when it shuts off. Because you can still hear the pump running when the car shuts off. I think I will check it with a gauge here shortly.

Any I put or suggestions are greatly appreciated as this is my daily driver and need to get it back on the road. Thanks.

Adam

Last edited by dozier; 02-17-2010 at 07:10 PM.
Old 02-17-2010, 12:28 PM
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attach a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel lines and just wait for it to start spuddering and see what the pressure does when that happens.
Old 02-17-2010, 07:07 PM
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Did this today...Fuel pressure was right at 56 psi when cranked up and stayed there. I revved the engine a couple times and it would jump as I revved to about 60 psi. I let the car idle and once it warmed up, it started to sputter again, and then died. Once it died, the pressure was 60 psi, I am assuming because it wasn't running anymore. Pressure did not drop at all when stalling. I cranked it back up immediately just for it to sputter right away and die.

It would not crank back up at all. Pressure was at 60 psi. Just turned over. About three hours passed and I went back outside to crank it, and it fired right up again. I just shut it off and have been thinking since then what I could do to figure out what is wrong with this thing.
Old 02-18-2010, 05:27 AM
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Maybe its getting too much gas? Maybe its running too rich. Is there a such thing of a too big of a fuel pump? GL. Let us know if you fix it and what it was.
Old 02-18-2010, 06:19 PM
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Nope...Not getting too much gas. Everything is fine with the fuel lines and pressure.

I checked for spark today and once the car died, there is no more spark. When trying to crank, there is nothing. I pulled a few codes the first time the car stopped running and wrote them down. Then I cleared them all and the only one that keeps popping up is this one...

P0452
Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor

I know that will have nothing to do with the car running though. However there were about 14 total trouble codes. Most of them were related to the transmission, fans, 02 sensors. The car was originally automatic. 02s were tuned out, and fans are hard wired to a switch.

It did bring up the Crankshaft position sensor P0336. So today I replaced that sensor, and the problem is still the same. No difference. I am baffled.
Old 02-19-2010, 11:33 AM
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Wow...No responses. I really thought people on this site could figure this out.
Old 02-19-2010, 02:45 PM
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What's your compression.?
Old 02-19-2010, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dozier
Wow...No responses. I really thought people on this site could figure this out.
Im sure someone here knows. Guess there are more into the parts classified section due to tax returns. Somebody will figure this out.
Old 02-25-2010, 10:25 PM
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Still an ongoing problem.
Old 02-26-2010, 12:26 AM
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Could be the same thing I just had happen, my PCM took a ****. Pull your two top plugs off and look to see if any of the plug pins are burnt. See pictures of mine in my thread title "Easiest way to check for bad coils". Should still be on the first page.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...bad-coils.html

I found a pin that's also loose, check every pin to make sure they are stiff. Disconnect battery first.....

.

Last edited by LS6427; 02-26-2010 at 12:34 AM.
Old 02-26-2010, 09:46 AM
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That sounds like a crank sensor issue to me. It acts up after the sensor has been heat soaked for a while. After you replaced the sensor, does the code still come back? You might have a cut wire off the crank sensor from rubbing on something causing the code and not the sensor itself.
Old 02-26-2010, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by lt1pwr1
That sounds like a crank sensor issue to me. It acts up after the sensor has been heat soaked for a while. After you replaced the sensor, does the code still come back? You might have a cut wire off the crank sensor from rubbing on something causing the code and not the sensor itself.
Yup, he's definitely got the exact symptoms of a bad crank shaft sensor.

.
Old 02-26-2010, 06:34 PM
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When I replaced the crank shaft sensor, there were no broken wires or any pulled loose. It was replaced with a brand new one. No idea...I will check the PCM issue. It is looking like I might be buying a new one. Anyone have one laying around for a 98?
Old 02-26-2010, 10:04 PM
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I had the same problem, the sputter and then car would shut off. Wouldnt kick over, tired and sounded like it wanted to but just wouldnt. Leave it sit for about 20 mins and it would fire up. But again same problem. My problem was none of the above listed but rather a ignition switch and ignition relay.
Old 03-01-2010, 03:26 PM
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The ignition switch and relay are from the factory 240sx. They are fine and have been tested.

I pulled out the PCM today to look at the terminals for any burn marks. Nothing found.
Does anyone test PCM's? Where can I go to get it checked out?
Old 03-09-2010, 11:24 PM
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LS6427....Your my hero.


I bought a used pcm off this site last week and it arrived on Friday. I installed it on Monday morning. The tuner did not make it out here until tonight, because it was free and when he could get to it. He uploaded my saved tune from the old pcm on to the new pcm. Fired the car up and everything worked just like normal. No more problems.

Thank you very much everyone for all your help. It is greatly appreciated. Also I hope this thread can help anyone else with this issue in the future. Thanks.



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