98boxer

iTrader: (7)

So then why do the auto parts stores sell AC refills? If we can't just refill when its not throwing cold? I will have to take it to an ac place and have them do it?

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

Why does VatoZone sell something called MotorHoney? Because they can, and tards will buy it.

fleetmgr

If you don't know how to find and fix the refrigerant leak that caused the problem in the first place, then yes, you will. Refrigerant doesn't wear out and quit working. That would be like saying water doesn't work. All it does is boil and condense, over and over, and in the process remove heat from inside the car.

The recharge kits that you can buy do nothing to fix the problem, only the symptom, which is you get no cold air. They sell the recharge kits because they can make good money by preying on people that don't understand how or why an A/C system works.

Don't forget....you can buy $15 a piece spark plugs too, for the same reason.

98boxer

iTrader: (7)

Ok, thanks. Now i have a problem with my ac and refill is not a fix. What would a shop charge to find the leak in the system?

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

Anywhere from a 100-1,000+ Bucks

Texhotrod593

iTrader: (7)

listen, first off if the kinked alumn tubing got bent and cracked...just braze the hole "patch" it if you will, to repair the hole. If you dont know how just go to any ac repair place and they will do it for you at a low cost. Even some commercial refrigeration places will do it for you. It takes (depends on how hard to get to) 5min to braze up.
2nd, this is what i do for a living...been doing it for 15 yrs. do not put your old drier in the oven. great thought processing but im sure its a bad idea. might work ok but not well. it would take alot of BTU's to fully "dry" the drier. Even though the silica type drier used here can be re-dried so to speak with using heat, the core is moisture latent. Meaning its FULL of moisture and other non-condensables(trash etc..). It will be cheaper in the long run to have a fresh system ok? not trying to **** in anyones cherios but i am a refrigeration engineer and i have worked in driers and small as these all the way up to silica crystal driers that take a front loader to move that de-humidify buildings twice the size of wal-mart.

Here is what i would do....
Get the hole fixed = not much money
Go buy the orfice(metering device) and accumulator/drier to replace = about 60-80
Replace these and charge with nitrogen to about 150lbs and leave for about an hour or so to check for leaks. If the pressure drops, you have a leak. You use nitrogen because even if you have a leak it will help absorbe any other moisture in your system. If the pressure does NOT drop then move in to pulling a vaccum on the system. I would aim for at least 300 microns of vaccum but theoretically you will only be able to pull down to abou 800 microns. So just leave the vaccum pump running on it through the night. When thats done and it holds a vaccum too, add your oil, PAG___(i think its 150 cant remember, lol) and recharge the system.... metering the charge!!! Do not just dump straight liquid for the valves in these compressors are very fragile. Use the vaccum on the system to pull as much liquid on the high side in as you can. Then use the compressor to pull the rest of the refrigerant in by suction or low side. Like i said...meter it to the tune of aboout 10-20% liquid and the rest gas. i think the system hold about 21ozs. like stated above^ its around 1.5lbs(16oz in a pound).
Good luck with your endeavor. If your lived any closer i would do it at no charge for labor wit you buying the materials.

fleetmgr

Just make sure it's dry, oil free nitrogen or else you'll have more problems by introducing more trash into the system.

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

Pretty much what he said. . . . . Just a very complicated way of saying it and doing it. . . . But, will work the best.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Just an FYI as far as the recharge goes.

I watched the tech at my Pontiac dealership change my A/C compressor about 6 years ago. All he did was remove the refridgerant, unbolt the old compressor, and bolt the new one on. No other parts were replaced and they said vacuuming these systems is a waste of time, they don't need it.

It was perfect for 4 years. Then in the past 2 years I had to open the system TWICE myself to replace a broken line and a leak in a rubber hose. All I did was bought 2 cans of 134, one 3 oz can of oil. Put it all in both times and the system was perfect. Its still perfect.

Find the leak, fix it, refill it yourself with 1 1/2 - 2 cans and the oil. Put one can in first, then start the engine and turn the compressor on, then the can of oil, then the other can of 134 till its blowing ice cold.

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samson_420

iTrader: (1)

How would all the refrigerant get into the system? And what the hell happens to the air in the system? I call BS. . . . But, I have never seen this done.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

You talking to me........

Here's one of the two repairs I did in my driveway. Had a pinhole leak in the hose where it attached to the molded crimped metal line. I used a dremel to cut away all of the crimp down to the bare inside metal line. I cut away about 1 inch of the rubber hose end where the pinhole leak was, then I used those two clamps. Its been holding for almost a year now. All I did was put 1 can of 134 in, then the 3oz oil can, then the other 134 can. Done. Ice cold and still working perfectly.

Whats the BS call for..... The tech at the dealer told me they NEVER vacuum a/c systems down anymore. Unless a system has been open for weeks.

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fleetmgr

It's not uncommon in the auto repair industry to either ignore evacuation, or not understand about getting as deep a vacuum as they can possibly get probably because the vast majority of techs don't know or don't understand what non-condensibles do to high side pressures, or how long it takes to get the moisture out of the oil. For sure Joe Lunchbucket doesn't.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

My stepdad and I have to remove his condensor on his Dodge Hemi to replace his condensor fan. We're gonna do the same thing.

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I asked the tech at the dealership if he was gonna vacuum it down and he said he hasen;t touched his vacuum machine in over a year and has never had a return issue.

I know its better to just do it, but I don't have a machine and really didn't want to pay shops around here $80.00 to do it if the dealership never does it.

And the first time I did it over two years ago, my system was open for like 5 weeks.

It is an interesting question though from samson.......where did all the air go that was sitting static in the lines right before I put all the 134 in.

.

slow

iTrader: (7)

A vacuum pump is a good idea, Whenever I've dealt with an HVAC system, I've pulled a vacuum, for 45 minutes, let it sit for 30 minutes to check the vacuum and then charged it.

I paid $100 for my Robinair 15600 vacuum pump off craigslist and $34.99 for my harborfreight gauge set. Paid for themselves in 1 repair.

Don't use the "leak fix" R134a cans, as it will ruin your system. Just fix the parts, search around for cans of true R134a without any special crap.


Ryan

fleetmgr

It didn't go anywhere. If you put a gauge on the system that was a real refrigeration service gauge, not one of the "recharge" gauges that come with cans of refrigerant, you'd see it. It will drive the high side pressure above where it would normally be, and if there's enough it will cause high pressure shutdown and also causes unnecessary strain on the compressor. However, before you can just look at the gauge and say the system has air in it, you have to know what the high side pressure is based on the ambient temperature.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

So if I wanted to pull into an a/c shop and have them get the air out, what would they do? Dump it all and start over?

Or would you say since its been perfect for about a year now, I'm good to go and just leave it? My compressor has a lifetime warranty, labor also from the dealer...so its not a huge concern.

.

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

Oh geez. . . . . . Vacuum is a must. . . . Things don't fix them selves. . . I assembled about 5 AC system in my life and I used the same procedure every time. . . . .

Fix the leak and/or part
Pull vacuum
Recharge
Check for leaks

= 45 degree air out of the vents


All the rest = Well, my car knocks a bit so I will use 90 weight oil. . . . . Kick ***, it stopped knocking. . . . .


P.S. This is not the way to fix a AC leak. . . . WTF is this a AT cooler line. . .

fleetmgr

You wouldn't put your heads back on and not use a torque wrench, would ya?
It's the difference between doing it, and doing it right.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

It is when that line is ridiculously expensive and shops want $200.00 in labor to replace it. And as I said, that 100% free fix has been fine for almost a year. So you're wrong, it is a good fix.

What line are you talking about. The one with the clamps on it. That is the a/c line coming from the bottom passengers side of the condensor. It sprung a pinhole leak 1/2" from the factory metal crimped line. All my 134 leaked out within about one days time. I cut about 1-inch away, dremeled the outer crimp off the factory metal line, and clamped the hose on with those two clamps.

A few clowns on here told me it wouldn't last 1 week. Close to a year now, for free. And my a/c is ice cold too. If it lets go some day then maybe I'll pay the ridiculous costs to replace the line. But I don't waste money unless its totally necessary.

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