Starter motor mount on block....broke.....
#61
Has anyone ever tried to fix this issue with a Durafix Alumaloy aluminum brazing rod?
There are quite a few excellent demo's at their site and on youtube. Seems like this rod is the answer to all "cast aluminum" repair prayers. Check out their video demonstration.
As far as I can figure from engineering sites on the Internet, it should be more than strong enough to reattach the starter tabs and rebuild the bolt threads. No welding required, just a torch capable of 732 degrees.
(correct my figures if I am wrong)
LS1 block (319-T5 aluminum) tensile strength = 23,000 psi.
Regular 6061 aluminum tensile strength = 45,000 psi.
Durafix tensile strength = 47,000 psi.
If these figures are correct, any repairs done to an LS1 block with Durafix would outlast the block.
There are quite a few excellent demo's at their site and on youtube. Seems like this rod is the answer to all "cast aluminum" repair prayers. Check out their video demonstration.
As far as I can figure from engineering sites on the Internet, it should be more than strong enough to reattach the starter tabs and rebuild the bolt threads. No welding required, just a torch capable of 732 degrees.
(correct my figures if I am wrong)
LS1 block (319-T5 aluminum) tensile strength = 23,000 psi.
Regular 6061 aluminum tensile strength = 45,000 psi.
Durafix tensile strength = 47,000 psi.
If these figures are correct, any repairs done to an LS1 block with Durafix would outlast the block.
#62
Has anyone ever tried to fix this issue with a Durafix Alumaloy aluminum brazing rod?
There are quite a few excellent demo's at their site and on youtube. Seems like this rod is the answer to all "cast aluminum" repair prayers. Check out their video demonstration.
As far as I can figure from engineering sites on the Internet, it should be more than strong enough to reattach the starter tabs and rebuild the bolt threads. No welding required, just a torch capable of 732 degrees.
(correct my figures if I am wrong)
LS1 block (319-T5 aluminum) tensile strength = 23,000 psi.
Regular 6061 aluminum tensile strength = 45,000 psi.
Durafix tensile strength = 47,000 psi.
If these figures are correct, any repairs done to an LS1 block with Durafix would outlast the block.
There are quite a few excellent demo's at their site and on youtube. Seems like this rod is the answer to all "cast aluminum" repair prayers. Check out their video demonstration.
As far as I can figure from engineering sites on the Internet, it should be more than strong enough to reattach the starter tabs and rebuild the bolt threads. No welding required, just a torch capable of 732 degrees.
(correct my figures if I am wrong)
LS1 block (319-T5 aluminum) tensile strength = 23,000 psi.
Regular 6061 aluminum tensile strength = 45,000 psi.
Durafix tensile strength = 47,000 psi.
If these figures are correct, any repairs done to an LS1 block with Durafix would outlast the block.
.
#63
What you saw him do with the welding electrode and the foot pedal was TIG welding. It is an excellent way to fix aluminum, but it is expensive, especially for a house-call.
What I am talking about is a similar method that can be done by the common handy-man with a butane torch, and is reported to be just as strong (or stronger) when done correctly.
You can get Alumiweld rods (same stuff, different brand) from Harbor Freight for a very reasonable cost. $15 for about 8 sticks, I think.
You need no flux, there are no fumes, you can repair or join any non-ferrous metal (even dissimilar metals) as thin as the bottom of a popcan, and the weld produced is stronger than the aluminum surrounding it.
I am seriously looking into this for things like radiator repair, cast aluminum repair, and if it works as good as they say it does, even for some light aluminum fabrication.
What I am talking about is a similar method that can be done by the common handy-man with a butane torch, and is reported to be just as strong (or stronger) when done correctly.
You can get Alumiweld rods (same stuff, different brand) from Harbor Freight for a very reasonable cost. $15 for about 8 sticks, I think.
You need no flux, there are no fumes, you can repair or join any non-ferrous metal (even dissimilar metals) as thin as the bottom of a popcan, and the weld produced is stronger than the aluminum surrounding it.
I am seriously looking into this for things like radiator repair, cast aluminum repair, and if it works as good as they say it does, even for some light aluminum fabrication.
#64
Hmmm, sounds pretty cool.
Yeah, he didn't charge me as much as the other shops wanted that required me to bring them the block out of the car. Couple hundred dollars was all. A few shops wanted like $300 just to come out with no guarantee they could even fix it.
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Yeah, he didn't charge me as much as the other shops wanted that required me to bring them the block out of the car. Couple hundred dollars was all. A few shops wanted like $300 just to come out with no guarantee they could even fix it.
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#66
Thats what happened to mine. The longer bolt mount broke, pretty much just like that, in half.
Well, at least we know it can be done without taking anything off like the LT's or tranny. My guy did it quite easily really. You just need to talk a welder into laying on his back in your driveway with the front end up on ramps.....or, better yet, tell them to meet you at a shop that will let you use a lift...it will make the job easier for the welder and maybe make them agree to try. I spoke to about 6 welders that said they won't even try unless I brought them the motor out of the car.
And make sure you get the truck starter....don't get the same one you have with one long bolt and one short bolt. It will happen again.
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#69
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Broken LS1 block
I hate to ask at a time of loss, however I could use a bare block with main caps for alignment of a rigid shaft set up in my Drag boat, should someone need to upgrade.
-Roger
-Roger
#72
So you're just wrong, the bolts were tight, so at least in my case the starter mount broke even with a tight bolt.
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#74
#77
Just kind of shocked that you're so ****** stupid not to see how a small tab of aluminum for the inner mount (older starter) is going to be just as strong as the shitload of built up aluminum that makes up the mount on the (newer starter).
At this point, its safe to say you're a DUMBASS!!!!!!
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At this point, its safe to say you're a DUMBASS!!!!!!
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Coy (07-17-2024)
#80
And this is just plain stupid too........the amount of threads on the new longer bolt that actually go into the starter mount on the block are identical to the older shorter bolt......so the clamping force is the same EINSTIEN........
Its the starter itself that was made stronger.
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Its the starter itself that was made stronger.
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