I guess I have been very lucky, I have the original starter with one short bolt and one long currently on my car. It's never gave me any problems what so ever. Reading all this is scaring me just a little bit. If I was to go to Napa auto parts or O"Reillys what year model chevrolet silverado pick up do I tell them? Also what size engine the 4.8, 5.3, or 6.0 litre or are they all the same? Thanks guys.

 

You're not going to get cheaper than Rock-Auto...I posted the part #.

BTW, the old starter is not guaranteed to fail as you and tons others get by just fine, its just when it does, you're SOL in a very bad way (Engine is F'ed. Swapping the starter is just peace of mind.

 

I am new to the forum. I have two long bolts on 2000 Silverado small V-8. Tech overtightened bolt during install four years ago. Has anyone had an experience using JB Weld to permanently install one long bolt into the broken block? I believe I am able to upload a picture of the broken section of the block. Thanks.

"... If the engine gets tough to turn over for ANY reason the mount on the short side breaks off taking the block with it because the starter twists itself away from the engine. As it twists away from the fltwheel the longer bolt can't break off so it breaks the engine mount off with it as it moves with the starter."

 

Wondering what your opinion is regarding ONLY the inside bolt; would only one bolt work with the way you describe the torque during the starting. When my stater failed a week ago; the starter turned, but would not engage the flywheel. Not sure, after four years, if the bendix failed, or the failure to start was the broken mount (the starter housing is cracked, too. Will include that pic). Since the truck is 12 years old, and has new brakes, brake lines, & gas lines) and I was thinking the new ACDELCO starter, if I JB Weld the one long bolt to the broken engine block, the starter will last longer than the truck. Seems to me to weld the block, the engine has to be pulled. I do not think it would be worth replacing the engine as I live in winter-salt Cleveland, OH. That is why, I was thinking about the JB Weld repair.

 

Have you seen the solution that I posted in post #148? If you weld the starter to the block and that starter goes bad, you're screwed. The fix that I posted makes a lot more sense.

 

Thanks, I now will check out the #148 post. I read everything from the beginning of the thread.

Yes, I am aware that JB Weld will weld the starter to the block, and will not allow me to remove the starter; however, my thinking is the starter will be a brand new AC Delco starter, which should last longer than the 2000 Silverado, or as long; say 4-5 years.

I am not sure what caused this problem, but I do recall that mechanic that installed the re-mfg. NAPA starter four years ago, really torqued the bolts. Because I was only an observer, I did not say anything at the time. Even then, the original starter was not bad, only the big wire had rusted through.

I would like to know if anyone has had this type of weld experience with JB Weld for a steel bolt to a cast iron engine block. Knowing this would give me confidence, which is in short supply these days.

Our Plan B is to tow the truck to a fiend, who will find and install a used engine. But we are thinking the JB Weld option is worth a try.

 

I read where one guy glued the broken piece back onto the engine block and it held for 15 months. Frankly, I wouldn't play shade tree mechanic on this. I would fix it so that I know it will hold. Another thing, a new starter doesn't guarantee that it is going to last a month. Sometimes, you just get a bad part, even though it's new. Doing it the way you're talking, you'd be screwed.

 

I know this thread is getting old but I must say for future searches. GET THE LQ4 STARTER!! AND GET IT NOW!! I have been dealing with this issue for 4 years. JB weld only works for a while. I went to autozone and got the
2001 Chevy silverado 2500 6.0 starter part number 6492s or 6492sn

 

That first part number shows up on Amazon for a good price. However, did you see the bracket that someone made so that you don't have to fix the broken piece?

 

The same thing happened to my car a month ago. What I did is I got what is called a starter bridge. It works great and it will never brake again. With a welled it can brake. The motor doesnt have to be removed

 

Where do you buy the bridge?

.

 

I posted it in post #148. You should read the entire thread. There's a lot of good information in it.

 

I see....I missed that post.

Jeez......$370.00...what a rip off.

**** that. I had mine welded in 15 minutes......it held for years and years. $150.00 and the welder drove to my house with all. His ****. The mount that breaks isn't the one that has the big stress, it's just a stabilizer for the starter.

.

 

I agree. That price is smoking crack. However, some people don't have the option of a MIG welder to come to their house. Luckily, I did.

 

Dam this thread is getting old....That Hot Silver Bird dood is a smart guy. LMAO

 

Did yours break too?

 

No....but I'm a crazy bird LMAO

 

Wouldn't upgrading the starter to anything past stock work to fix it?

 

One of my cars has one bolt and a block of wood zip-tied to the starter to keep it from twisting. I bought it like that and it has started fine everyday for about 2 months. And yes I know its super half assed! Lol

 

01 Z28 with a lot of time and money in the stock bottom end and not so stock top end. I am a nut about properly torqued fasteners on everything i touch because my name is on it. About 14 months ago on a normal cold start it decided to spit the starter out. Starter housing broke then popped the outboard block mount too. Read up on the issue here from the knowledgable and much respected members. Bought a truck starter, torqued the inboard bolt to spec and could only hand tighten the outboard bolt before it would skip. Its been starting without a problem for over a year now and i keep thinking one day im going to fix that. Thanks to the members here for saving my **** in a sense.