battery is randomly completely dead
battery is randomly completely dead I need some help. Last june I was driving around and at my friends house for a few hours. I went to leave and I turned the key and nothing. The battery seemed fine on the way to my friends house but now all of a sudden it was completely dead. We tried jumping it a few times for a while and nothing. We even tried plugging it in to one of those chargers and nothing happened. I ended up just buying a new battery and swapping it out and it started fine.
Well I thought it was just a dead battery because it worked when i replaced it but now the exact same thing happened only 9 months later. I tried jumping it but its completely dead. When we put the cables on it, it clicked but every time after that nothing would happen. I don't know why my battery is dead after just 9 months. It went from working fine to being completely shot over a 45min drive and 2 hours of being parked. I'm super frustrated right now
because I am randomly getting stranded and I have no idea why.
Please, I need some help before the car goes bye bye
Well I thought it was just a dead battery because it worked when i replaced it but now the exact same thing happened only 9 months later. I tried jumping it but its completely dead. When we put the cables on it, it clicked but every time after that nothing would happen. I don't know why my battery is dead after just 9 months. It went from working fine to being completely shot over a 45min drive and 2 hours of being parked. I'm super frustrated right now
because I am randomly getting stranded and I have no idea why.Please, I need some help before the car goes bye bye
we sell batteries where i work and ive sold sum that come back a week later with a bad cell...Like the other guy said take it to walmart or autozone and get it tested...if the battery is good it could be your alternator...get that tested too...It could also be your VATS system...look at your key to see if the resistor chip is worn out. I would look into the battery and alternator first and then go to the VATS if the 2 first ideas dont work. Also check your connectors make sure there is no corrosion cracks etc.
Thanks guys.. i took out the battery and had a friend take me to advanced (where i bought the battery) and the printout said battery is good but low on charge. STATS:Voltage (12.36v) Measured(685cca) Rated(650cca). I'm not sure what any of that means but they charged it and the car still wouldn't fire up.
The key looks pretty good but to be safe I'll bring the spare set as well when I try to start it tomorrow. I didn't see any security light flash when i tried to start the car (search was helpful for VATS) but I could have been too focused on the car not starting that I overlooked it.
Nothing in the car worked.. the alarm, lights, radio.. it was all completely dead. How would I go about checking the alternator? I know advanced said they check them but I dont know how to get it out of the car or put it back in.
The key looks pretty good but to be safe I'll bring the spare set as well when I try to start it tomorrow. I didn't see any security light flash when i tried to start the car (search was helpful for VATS) but I could have been too focused on the car not starting that I overlooked it.
Nothing in the car worked.. the alarm, lights, radio.. it was all completely dead. How would I go about checking the alternator? I know advanced said they check them but I dont know how to get it out of the car or put it back in.
If there battery tests good and you have no power to any thing I would think it is a battery cable issue or an issue with the electrical part of the ignition switch (not the lock part) It is hard to say though with out seeing the car
Dan, you were a great help last time I had some issues with my car and I'll def. check the cables but as far as the ignition switch, I have no idea where to start.
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Verdad Gallardo He said it will not start with a jump so that rules that out.
To check the ignition switch take a test light out and with the key on check for power to the fues block ans fuses.
PS if the car was a little close to me I would go pick it up for ya. But it is 45min away and in the city. That would be hard with the truck and trailer.
To check the ignition switch take a test light out and with the key on check for power to the fues block ans fuses.
PS if the car was a little close to me I would go pick it up for ya. But it is 45min away and in the city. That would be hard with the truck and trailer.
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
He said it will not start with a jump so that rules that out.
To check the ignition switch take a test light out and with the key on check for power to the fues block ans fuses.
PS if the car was a little close to me I would go pick it up for ya. But it is 45min away and in the city. That would be hard with the truck and trailer.
To check the ignition switch take a test light out and with the key on check for power to the fues block ans fuses.
PS if the car was a little close to me I would go pick it up for ya. But it is 45min away and in the city. That would be hard with the truck and trailer.
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Thanks guys.. i took out the battery and had a friend take me to advanced (where i bought the battery) and the printout said battery is good but low on charge. STATS:Voltage (12.36v) Measured(685cca) Rated(650cca). I'm not sure what any of that means but they charged it and the car still wouldn't fire up.
The key looks pretty good but to be safe I'll bring the spare set as well when I try to start it tomorrow. I didn't see any security light flash when i tried to start the car (search was helpful for VATS) but I could have been too focused on the car not starting that I overlooked it.
Nothing in the car worked.. the alarm, lights, radio.. it was all completely dead. How would I go about checking the alternator? I know advanced said they check them but I dont know how to get it out of the car or put it back in.
The key looks pretty good but to be safe I'll bring the spare set as well when I try to start it tomorrow. I didn't see any security light flash when i tried to start the car (search was helpful for VATS) but I could have been too focused on the car not starting that I overlooked it.
Nothing in the car worked.. the alarm, lights, radio.. it was all completely dead. How would I go about checking the alternator? I know advanced said they check them but I dont know how to get it out of the car or put it back in.
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: rosemount,mn/windsor locks,ct
I dont know what a parasitic draw test is but that seems to make sense that something is not shutting off.
Dan, you were a great help last time I had some issues with my car and I'll def. check the cables but as far as the ignition switch, I have no idea where to start.
Dan, you were a great help last time I had some issues with my car and I'll def. check the cables but as far as the ignition switch, I have no idea where to start.
Yesterday after my church service I went back to the car and tried to start it and nothing. I checked the battery cables and the connection and they looked fine. I took out the battery and I was gonna call for a tow but before I did that I put the battery back in and hooked it up again and it started right up
I drove it down the street to Autozone and they said the battery was bad and the alternator was fine. I took it to advanced across from autozone and they said the battery and the alternator were both good.
Autozone gave me a printout:
BATTERY: 13.07v
STARTER TEST: Cranking Normal, Voltage 10.97v, Amps 0.0A, Time 781ms
CHARGING SYSTEM TEST: No load 13.98v, Loaded 13.90v
Honestly I have no clue what is happening. My car is at firestone right now for a free electrical system check
I drove it down the street to Autozone and they said the battery was bad and the alternator was fine. I took it to advanced across from autozone and they said the battery and the alternator were both good. Autozone gave me a printout:
BATTERY: 13.07v
STARTER TEST: Cranking Normal, Voltage 10.97v, Amps 0.0A, Time 781ms
CHARGING SYSTEM TEST: No load 13.98v, Loaded 13.90v
Honestly I have no clue what is happening. My car is at firestone right now for a free electrical system check
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth Texas
Alright, this wreaks of wiring connection problems or a bad alternator...I see everyone else is trying to get you to do complex tests that you have no comprehension of...lol. I'm going to break it down a little: do you have a multi-meter? If not, go buy one, you absolutely need it if you intend to work on this car by yourself...even an analog el cheapo will do for this test. Pop the hood and measure the voltage on your battery with the car off, it should be around 12.5 VDC or so. Start the car, test the battery terminals again, the voltage should shoot up to 14.5 or so...if you have no increase in voltage then your alternator is dead or the connection is jacked. If you have a weak increase, well we can assume your alternator will soon be dead, or the connection is jacked...lol! You also need to check the obvious...do you have anything hot wired that can run with the key off...once you get the car powered does it have an interior light that was left on? Always focus on the obvious...sometimes it's the case. I have had similar issues where the cables connecting to the battery were corroded about 2 inches in under the jacket...caused your identical problem.
hey guys thanks for the replies and sorry it took so long to get back on here. I took the car to firestone and they couldn't find a thing wrong with it. They checked everything and couldn't figure out what happened. Every time they started it there was no problem.
Anyway, I think I should get a voltmeter but I think the connection is okay because when I got the battery about a year ago, the contacts were corroded but I changed them when I changed the battery. The car has 150k+ on it and its running like a champ but I guess now and then it has its moments. It probably would have helped if I kept up to date with all the scheduled maintenance but money has been tight since I've had the car so I can really afford to fix things as they break.
Anyway, I think I should get a voltmeter but I think the connection is okay because when I got the battery about a year ago, the contacts were corroded but I changed them when I changed the battery. The car has 150k+ on it and its running like a champ but I guess now and then it has its moments. It probably would have helped if I kept up to date with all the scheduled maintenance but money has been tight since I've had the car so I can really afford to fix things as they break.
this happend to me a while ago....
take both battery cables off the battery and inspect the threads on the bolts, as well as the rubber insulation overlapping and getting between the termanls on the battery and the metal part of the cable. i had damn near the same problem and it would randomly die in traffic with 0 power. i had to get out and wiggle the battery cables untill it start. i found the rubber insulation resting between the battery cable and the terminal itself. i know your thinking "well current travels thru the bolt" but its hit or miss because the bolt is held in by the insulation a little. so its not reliable to carry current.
if you see threads messed up, time for new battery cables, or atleast bolts. other than that if you see the insulation problem, get a razor blade out and trim it away.
take both battery cables off the battery and inspect the threads on the bolts, as well as the rubber insulation overlapping and getting between the termanls on the battery and the metal part of the cable. i had damn near the same problem and it would randomly die in traffic with 0 power. i had to get out and wiggle the battery cables untill it start. i found the rubber insulation resting between the battery cable and the terminal itself. i know your thinking "well current travels thru the bolt" but its hit or miss because the bolt is held in by the insulation a little. so its not reliable to carry current.
if you see threads messed up, time for new battery cables, or atleast bolts. other than that if you see the insulation problem, get a razor blade out and trim it away.
Can someone shed some light on what might have caused it to happen?
something like this happened to me. I got to ampm just fine, got drinks, came back out, and nothing. No stereo, lights, alarm, nothing. After getting home and tracing wires for a while i found the AUX post on the driver side loose. After tightening it up and spraying some electric parts cleaner it started right up. Hope that helps.
BTW, found this trying to find out what was wrong with mine. Saw it wasnt answered.
BTW, found this trying to find out what was wrong with mine. Saw it wasnt answered.
