Name that problem
I replaced a crank sensor already too.
What could it be?
Thanks
Thanks for the help all
You can get the codes read at autozone, just don't let them delete the codes, you may need them until this gets sorted out. If you go to the parts store, see if you can rent a fuel pressure test kit, so you can diagnose the fuel pump this weekend as well.
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Here's what the kit looks like:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel-...motiveQ5fTools
. Still waiting to change out the crank sensor which will happen either tonight or thursday. I will keep everyone posted. I've never heard of a failing Crankshaft sensor causing it to be sluggish or backfiring. But anythings possible I guess.
Your 02 sensor(s) failing WILL cause exactly that though. And you also WILL NOT get an SES light till they totally fail. I'd get a scan with a real OBDII and see what the 02 sensors are doing with the engine running. You can see if they're NOT switching properly, then you found the problem. Bad 02's rob power, cause the engine to stumble and misfire.
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Thanks
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...like-crap.html
having a cam and headers, I would first start with checking spark plugs and spark plug wires. You may be getting intermittent misfires and not all misfires throw a code. It is also common for spark plug wires to go bad from the heat being next to the headers and cause misfiring, and that would happen when under load when the most heat is generated.
Inspect the spark plugs, and wires, and look for fouling or overheating and go from there. I would do that first since it's probably easiest and free.
After that if nothing conclusive then I would go back and adjust lifter preload; you had a cam install so there's a good chance of that being the source of the problem. It's probable whoever did the work did not set one correctly and a valve is not closing fully which will cause backfiring under load but not in neutral. Or you could have the wrong valve springs or incorrect pushrod length with new cam. Worst is you might have a burnt valve which will cause what you describe, and can be diagnosed via leak-down or compression test.
I would not rule out O2's, but since you mention a cam/header install I would think valve train first. but if you have a easy cheap means to check O2's then do it to rule it out, same with fuel pressure. I doubt it's a fuel pump problem though.
And yes, it's the front O2 sensors you would be checking/replacing; those do the work of monitoring air-fuel ratio. The rear O2 sensors, which you deleted or replaced with simulators, were only there to check catalytic converter efficiency for emissions, you replace them with "sims" to fool the computer so a trouble code is not triggered.


