Stupid quesion about spark plug change
#1
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I recently changed out my spark plugs and wires last week. Everything went...relatively smooth...but it got done. Car runs great, it really loves it. Even though I was careful, I am still paranoid about a couple things since I had to use "the Force" to put the plugs and wires in.
It was hard for me to hear or even feel if the wires clicked when I put them on but I did tug on them and they were secure, everything looked identical. Also, I have heard it is REAL EASY to cross thread these spark plugs (I did use anti-seize as well of course).
Is there a way to tell if a spark plug is not firing while driving? Would the engine RPMs jump around? Would the engine sputter or something? Also, IF I did cross thread a spark plug, what would happen during engine operation? Would it be louder when I hit the gas, etc? Sorry if I sound paranoid. I just don't like how I had to basically work blind when doing this. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
It was hard for me to hear or even feel if the wires clicked when I put them on but I did tug on them and they were secure, everything looked identical. Also, I have heard it is REAL EASY to cross thread these spark plugs (I did use anti-seize as well of course).
Is there a way to tell if a spark plug is not firing while driving? Would the engine RPMs jump around? Would the engine sputter or something? Also, IF I did cross thread a spark plug, what would happen during engine operation? Would it be louder when I hit the gas, etc? Sorry if I sound paranoid. I just don't like how I had to basically work blind when doing this. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
#2
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If one plug wasn't firing, the engine would be running pretty rough. I had the same problem when putting the wires back on my plugs....there wasn't a really tactile "click" when the wire popped onto the plug. If you car isn't running rough, you don't have a loose wire.
For cross-threading, as long as you didn't need to use anything but your fingers to get the plugs all the way down to final torquing (as far as being able to just spin them down), you probably didn't cross-thread anything. Aluminum isn't hard to cross-thread, but the plug would still be tight as soon as you started installing it if you had cross-threaded it.
For cross-threading, as long as you didn't need to use anything but your fingers to get the plugs all the way down to final torquing (as far as being able to just spin them down), you probably didn't cross-thread anything. Aluminum isn't hard to cross-thread, but the plug would still be tight as soon as you started installing it if you had cross-threaded it.
#3
11 Second Club
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Sounds like everything is fine. If you did have a cylinder that was not firing the engine would run terrible. Your spark plug install also sounds fine. If they were cross threaded you would know it. They would not get tight and after continuous turning would rip the threads out.
#5
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Thanks for all the replies. I'll find out if I cross threaded for sure next time I change the plugs I guess.
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#6
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hey, im just want to say that a very long time lol. anyway if u ever want not cross thread on spark plug, here the tip, when u put the plug on the hole. turn it to the left until it click, then turn it to the right and screw it it, doing that it will never cross thread .
btw some spark plug wire dont make click noise, just push it in hard and done. what plug and wire did u use and what gap u gap the plug at ?
btw some spark plug wire dont make click noise, just push it in hard and done. what plug and wire did u use and what gap u gap the plug at ?
#7
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Funny thing is, I knew someone was going to say that line when I made the title, lol.
I used MSD wires. I was going to use regular stock wires as it will be a while until I start upgrading the motor (if I do) but MSD was actually cheaper than whatever I would find at Autozone, etc. So I got the "performance" wires. I heard clicks on the other coils except for #8 and I think another one. Changing the plug was easy, the wires are what frustrated me the most. But everything looked uniform (how far the plug sat on the coils and plugs, as well as angles of plugs).
For the plugs, I got NGK TR55s gapped at .060. I followed the write up on Install University and I drove my car up on ramps. So I used a combo of working underneath and working from the top. Swivel ratchets are a life saver on this job.
I used MSD wires. I was going to use regular stock wires as it will be a while until I start upgrading the motor (if I do) but MSD was actually cheaper than whatever I would find at Autozone, etc. So I got the "performance" wires. I heard clicks on the other coils except for #8 and I think another one. Changing the plug was easy, the wires are what frustrated me the most. But everything looked uniform (how far the plug sat on the coils and plugs, as well as angles of plugs).
For the plugs, I got NGK TR55s gapped at .060. I followed the write up on Install University and I drove my car up on ramps. So I used a combo of working underneath and working from the top. Swivel ratchets are a life saver on this job.
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#10
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if one of the cylinders were misfiring then you should be throwing an SES code..
Also, if you want to test each spark plug then you can have someone crank the motor with the fuel pump off and one of the spark plugs out to watch for the spark. Make sure you ground the spark plug by holding it up against the frame of the motor compartment.. But if I were you I wouldn't worry too much until a code was thrown.
Also, if you want to test each spark plug then you can have someone crank the motor with the fuel pump off and one of the spark plugs out to watch for the spark. Make sure you ground the spark plug by holding it up against the frame of the motor compartment.. But if I were you I wouldn't worry too much until a code was thrown.