Low oil pressure from 5w-30 mobil 1
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Low oil pressure from 5w-30 mobil 1
So I got a low oil pressure warning light once or twice when I put my stock 97 z28 LT1 in reverse or while I'm sitting at a light. I had been using Mobil 1 5w-30 since I got the car with 47k miles. It's got 97k miles now. Talked with a mechanic I know and he said use 10w-40 or even 15w-40 with Lucas.
Are there any drawbacks to using that thick of an oil solution vs 5w-30? Should a high mileage non-garage queen car like mine care? I just don't want the engine to explode so if anyone could chime in I'd appreciate it.
Are there any drawbacks to using that thick of an oil solution vs 5w-30? Should a high mileage non-garage queen car like mine care? I just don't want the engine to explode so if anyone could chime in I'd appreciate it.
#2
TECH Fanatic
So I got a low oil pressure warning light once or twice when I put my stock 97 z28 LT1 in reverse or while I'm sitting at a light. I had been using Mobil 1 5w-30 since I got the car with 47k miles. It's got 97k miles now. Talked with a mechanic I know and he said use 10w-40 or even 15w-40 with Lucas.
Are there any drawbacks to using that thick of an oil solution vs 5w-30? Should a high mileage non-garage queen car like mine care? I just don't want the engine to explode so if anyone could chime in I'd appreciate it.
Are there any drawbacks to using that thick of an oil solution vs 5w-30? Should a high mileage non-garage queen car like mine care? I just don't want the engine to explode so if anyone could chime in I'd appreciate it.
And also my uncle uses Mobil in his vehicles and I just dont like it cuz its looks like water going in and when you change it and just seems like it doesnt protect anything.
I'd try Castrol 10W30, thats what ive always used and I have 100K miles of hard racing on my LT1 and she still runs 50 PSI
#4
TECH Fanatic
No, there is a difference in viscosity(thickness), and with the 10W30, it will stick to your bearings better and that extra thickness helps out especially when your motor is running warmer. and all that B.S. about losing power with thicker oil is dumb, unless your running straight 30W oil you will not tell the difference.
#5
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, in summer temps any Xw-30 is the same viscosity as any other, as in 30 weight. The W designates winter. Don't put Lucas anything in your oil, or anybody else's oil additive either. You don't know how it will dovetail with the additive package that's already manufactured into your oil. For that matter, you don't even know what's in it. As a class, oil additives do nothing but relieve you of your money.
Things to do:
1. Get a real oil pressure gauge on your car to see if you really have a problem or not. It could be as simple as a flakey sending unit.
2. If a real gauge confirms low oil pressure at idle, then all using a heavier oil will do is partially mask what the problem is...namely, worn bearings. The real cure is an overhaul if this is the case.
3. Get a different mechanic. He's not doing you any favors.
Things to do:
1. Get a real oil pressure gauge on your car to see if you really have a problem or not. It could be as simple as a flakey sending unit.
2. If a real gauge confirms low oil pressure at idle, then all using a heavier oil will do is partially mask what the problem is...namely, worn bearings. The real cure is an overhaul if this is the case.
3. Get a different mechanic. He's not doing you any favors.
#7
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (26)
No, there is a difference in viscosity(thickness), and with the 10W30, it will stick to your bearings better and that extra thickness helps out especially when your motor is running warmer. and all that B.S. about losing power with thicker oil is dumb, unless your running straight 30W oil you will not tell the difference.
Trending Topics
#10
Don't put Lucas anything in your oil, or anybody else's oil additive either. You don't know how it will dovetail with the additive package that's already manufactured into your oil. For that matter, you don't even know what's in it. As a class, oil additives do nothing but relieve you of your money.
For a gasoline engine with regular oil changes there is not really a point of oil additives.
#13
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm sure that you'll be able to get away with putting an oil additive into your oil, but there is such a thing as a compatibility test with two different oils. It is rare, but sometimes two different oils, more so with fuel oils, are not compatible and will form waxes and other solids that are a pain to deal with.
Not true at all with either mineral or synthetic. Assuming that any oil you put in your engine has an API seal, it will be compatible. Funny, I can't recall ever seeing an API seal on an aftermarket additive.
However, it's particularly true with the oils that are in greases (grease is 70-90% oil). Mix the wrong types of grease, and it all runs out as liquid. In fact, grease incompatibility is what nearly caused Firestone Tires to go out of business, and lost them a 70 year old contract as Fords OEM tire. Someone used the wrong grease on the tire molds, the hinge that was being greased developed some play (only .030" or so) as a result. This caused imperfect vulcanization on the new tires...so a lot of Ford Explorers rolled over with the blowouts.
Absolutely true. In fact, I'll go a step further and say that there is NO point to aftermarket oil additives outside of relieving someone of their money. They are, universally, snake oil. Some just have more snake than others.
#15
Nice info man.
#16
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (36)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 660
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i dont believe mine had anything to do with brand per say, just using to thin of weight and synthetic. It just happened to be that when i went with a thicker oil i also switched brands and back to a conventional oil. I just wanted to give ya ****.
#18
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The problem with your logic is that they have a vested interest in selling stuff, regardless of the benefit or lack of any.
They also have exactly zero training in lubrication or lubricants. How do I know this? Because unless you get it from an oil company, it's not available. They don't teach it in any college class, not even for tribologists...they don't get the application training until going to work after school.
They also have exactly zero training in lubrication or lubricants. How do I know this? Because unless you get it from an oil company, it's not available. They don't teach it in any college class, not even for tribologists...they don't get the application training until going to work after school.
#19
I work in an industry that uses LOTS of lubricants for applications that far exceeds anything an automotive car will ever see with change intervals way longer than an automotive engine would see. We don't put ANY additives in anything, not hydraulics, not grease, not turbine oil, reduction gear oil, and not diesel engine lubricating oil. Running engines are tested weekly for basic quality and every three months samples are sent to a lab.
Trust me if you are using additives then you didn't put the right oil into your engine in the first place.
Trust me if you are using additives then you didn't put the right oil into your engine in the first place.