WHISTLE, not Whine or Squeek....
02-10-2011, 10:00 PM
#1
Launching!
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WHISTLE, not Whine or Squeek.... Whistle from my WS6 in very mysterious but hopefully cured easily.
2001 WS6
HCIE
400rwho
All "free" deletes
Whistle is there about 80% of the time but not always. When it is there it defintely gets louder with increased rpm's.
In gear or neutral changes nothing
Did the poor man's "stethoscope" to narrow down the culprit- couldn't find it.
To what can we narrow down a "whistle" vs a "whine"?
2001 WS6
HCIE
400rwho
All "free" deletes
Whistle is there about 80% of the time but not always. When it is there it defintely gets louder with increased rpm's.
In gear or neutral changes nothing
Did the poor man's "stethoscope" to narrow down the culprit- couldn't find it.
To what can we narrow down a "whistle" vs a "whine"?
02-11-2011, 08:30 AM
#7
FormerVendor
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It's quite common to hear a whistle after an cold air intake install. The air rushing past the throttle plate causes it. Removing the intake resonator allows us to hear it.
Install a vaccum gauge and check for vaccum leaks. Spray carb cleaner around the intake and listen for any rpm changes of the motor while it is running at idle.
Adjust the throttle plate screw and the whistle will go away.{Open it a hair more}
If you car has does not have traction control you do not have to do a tps relearn!
The is what we have seen it work, if they are no vaccum leaks.
Install a vaccum gauge and check for vaccum leaks. Spray carb cleaner around the intake and listen for any rpm changes of the motor while it is running at idle.
Adjust the throttle plate screw and the whistle will go away.{Open it a hair more}
If you car has does not have traction control you do not have to do a tps relearn!
The is what we have seen it work, if they are no vaccum leaks.
Last edited by C/Performance; 02-11-2011 at 09:11 AM.
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02-11-2011, 08:54 AM
#8
if you adjust the throttle plate screw you will need to do a tps re-learn so avoid that if you can. we have seen some cars with free mods that leaked around the iat sensor as well causing a sound that is like a centrifugal blower, lol!
02-11-2011, 09:22 AM
#9
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Not to hijack thread but how do u do a tps relearn? I think I need to do one cause I was having a lil surging issue after my cam install and the tuner said I could adjust the throttle body screw a little to keep it open a little more when completely off throttle.
02-11-2011, 09:39 AM
#10
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To perform the TP sensor learn procedure (traction control equipped vehicles only). Refer to Scan Tool Diagnostics in the Antilock Brake System.
The scan tool displays 0-5 Volts . The scan tool displays the amount of throttle opening in voltage. When the throttle is at a closed throttle the voltage is between 0.4-0.9 Volts . When the throttle is at wide open throttle the voltage is above 4.0 Volts.
Try doing a iac relearn and see if that helps .
Perform the following procedure in order to return the learned idle to the correct position:
Automatic Transmission
Turn OFF the ignition.
Restore the PCM battery feed.
Turn OFF the A/C controls.
Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
Start the engine.
Ensure that the engine coolant temperature is more than 80°C (176°F) .
Shift the transmission into Drive.
Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes .
Shift the transmission into Park.
Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes .
Turn OFF the engine for 30 seconds .
Manual Transmission
Turn OFF the ignition.
Restore the PCM battery feed.
Turn OFF the A/C controls.
Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
Place the transmission in Neutral.
Start the engine.
Ensure that the engine coolant temperature is more than 80°C (176°F) .
Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes .
Turn OFF the engine for 30 seconds .
Last edited by C/Performance; 02-11-2011 at 09:46 AM.
02-12-2011, 04:42 PM
#11
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A lot of this may be past my expertise but I am stubbornly trying to avoid taking it to a mechanic. I just spent the past few hours with the car up on 4 jacks and listening to the whistle from above and below. I still cannot isolate exactly where it is coming from although I have narrowed it down to the driver's side engine area. When I put my poor mans stethoscope on the alternator or power steering pump I hear no amplification of the sound. Likewise, when I turn the wheels to the extreme left and right the sound does not change so I'm steering (pun intended) away from that. RPMs are the only thing that change the whistle (louder with more revs). I have not played with the throttle plate at all yet so I guess that is worth a shot. Still wondering about an exhaust or intake gasket leak on the driver's side. Vacuum gauge seems to react normally to revs but who knows. The mystery continues...
02-12-2011, 07:15 PM
#12
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Hithe attached may help you. Did you check the brake booster line/vacuum line behind intake/pvc/tb/ often the plastic line is cracked when changing intake.the hole in throttle body can create idle issues for you. 9/64 -5/32 is normal. Bearings alternator/ps/ etc. Remove belts and run to check!!!!
Caution.............do not over heat..................good luck.........have a blessed day.jim
02-15-2011, 06:30 AM
#13
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So the sound seems like it is coming from the Power Steering reservoir area near the driver's side front of the vehicle. Even though the pitch of the whistle doesn't change when turning the wheel I became suspicious and checked the power steering fluid level. While the level is good, the fluid is greenish as if it is mixed with coolant. How serious is this guys?
Did a bit of research and it appears i have a bad Power Steering Cooler. Seems to be a lot of debate on whether or not to just bypass it or replace it. Good or bad stories out there about either method?
Did a bit of research and it appears i have a bad Power Steering Cooler. Seems to be a lot of debate on whether or not to just bypass it or replace it. Good or bad stories out there about either method?
02-15-2011, 10:09 AM
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Many of these cars came stock without the cooler, so it is certainly not a required item. My '02 Z has one, my '98 Z does not. In the early years of LS1 cars, they came standard only on WS6/SS cars. Then, in '01 or '02, they were made standard on all V8 trim levels. The RPO for this option is V12.
Whether or not to install a new one (or just bypass) is entirely up to you.
Whether or not to install a new one (or just bypass) is entirely up to you.
02-15-2011, 11:59 AM
#15
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Many of these cars came stock without the cooler, so it is certainly not a required item. My '02 Z has one, my '98 Z does not. In the early years of LS1 cars, they came standard only on WS6/SS cars. Then, in '01 or '02, they were made standard on all V8 trim levels. The RPO for this option is V12.
Whether or not to install a new one (or just bypass) is entirely up to you.
Whether or not to install a new one (or just bypass) is entirely up to you.
02-15-2011, 12:18 PM
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Yep, just get one for say, a '98 Z28. You'll know right away if it's the right hose because it should be one long piece for the non-cooler cars (vs. two shorter pieces for the cooler equipped cars).
02-15-2011, 12:28 PM
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Sure hope this is the source of the annoying whistle. Looking forward to...
02-15-2011, 12:41 PM
#18
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Changing out the stock air box causes the intake to whistle in ls1 camaros. The design of the stock lid is made to silence this sound specifically. Not sure if there is a similar design in pontiac's.
02-16-2011, 09:27 PM
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Bypassed the cooler. Good news- no more coolant in the PS. Bad news- whistle hasn't changed at all.
I'll post a high end vid in the next day or two that might help diagnose this annoying POS!
I'll post a high end vid in the next day or two that might help diagnose this annoying POS!
02-16-2011, 10:04 PM
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Well, the good news is, even though you didn't find the whistle you fixed another problem. And since the PS pump isn't making any noise, you may have been lucky enough to catch the leak before doing any damage to the system.
Might not be a bad idea to change the coolant at some point, in addition to the PS fluid. Normally, unless the leak gets really bad, the bulk of any contamination is coolant getting into the PS fluid, I guess because it's the thinner of the two.
Might not be a bad idea to change the coolant at some point, in addition to the PS fluid. Normally, unless the leak gets really bad, the bulk of any contamination is coolant getting into the PS fluid, I guess because it's the thinner of the two.