LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I've never had to do it myself, this is how people have described doing it though. I would unplug each injector, remove the rails, then remove the injectors from the intake. Then reconnect them to the rails and see if they leak that way.


.

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Ok yeah i was thinking you would have to just do it that way.. On a cold start i noticed a very slight ticking sound when i accelerated, sounded more like an electronic clicking then say a spun bearing or piston slap, didnt seem loud or metal sounding enough.. does that mean anything? Its not very noticable at all and the other day i cold started it again and didnt hear anything

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Man, I don't know. Sometimes I've heard wierd ticking noises throughout the years and then its not there one day.....
If you suspect the injectors I think you can touch them with a screwdriver while the engine is idling to feel the ticking of each one. See if one might be missing a little bit.

But some guy told me that if one injector on a side is "electrically" having trouble it will take out all 4 on that side. Not leaks or dirt in them, but an electronic issue. Not sure if thats true or not though....

.

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Oh wow, yeah i still think i have most all my power still there, i took it out the other day and opened it up to see if it would clean out a little and it didnt but it felt like all the power was there. Im thinking ill just take it in today to a shop, i should probably get a compression test and leak down done anyways before i put the car on nitrous

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Yea, definitely do those tests before the nitrous. Bent valves/pushrods can also cause power issues and missing. I think the leakdown test will find that. Not sure......

.

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Yeah ill be taking it in today most likely ill post results

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Just got quoted around town for ~350 on the low side for a compression test and leak down. The compression test is logged in their books for 3 hours im guessing because of the rear plug.. would it be cheaper to rent one or something? 350 is alot for just that imo..

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Maf...

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Unplugged? I checked already..

KevinR

Have you tried cleaning it yet?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Thats ridiculous. Maybe someone from an F-Body club near you if you have one. I found a guy in a club that did it for me for free if I helped him. Maybe you can ask around....or on the local forums.

Call around to more shops. Shops will do a leakdown check around here for $100. Make sure you put in new spark plugs when you do it......lol

You could buy a leakdown kit...its extremely easy to do yourself.

.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Its not the MAF.....MAF doesn't come into play until you go WOT....and its used for cold starts until you reach 122*F. I think its 122*F....either way its only used for cold starts and WOT.

Its not that.......

.

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

I havent cleaned it yet, i was going to put in some injector cleaner fluid today, clean the maf and do some of that seafoam stuff. Then i figure if that doesnt clear it up, and ill want to be changing the plugs here anyways to borrow or buy a $20 compression checker and do that when im changing the plugs. Then if that doesnt do anything ill probably just take it in to get a leak down or figure out what exactly to do with checking out my injectors and all. Sound like a good plan? Also i dont know to run the tr55 or tr6 plugs.. I wanted to run the tr6 but the nitrous may be a while yet..

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Are you near any Texas speed shops by chance? Go ahead and do those things to see if it clears the problem, if its still there you may need someone that knows their **** to check for bent valves or pushrods.

As for the spark plugs....NGK TR55 or TR5 is what you want. They are 100% identical plugs, they just come gapped differently from the factory.
BUT.......you need to get a gapper tool and gap them all to .050 Thats the best gap for LS1 Normally Aspirated engine from bone stock to 650 RWHP.

I was going to put a TNT wet shot on mine years ago and put TR6 plugs in gapped to .035, before my nitrous was installed. I decided then not to do nitrous back then. I have no idea why, but it ran like **** with the TR6's. I took them out, put the TR55's back in gapped to .050 and my engine ran perfect again. So I don't know what was up there.

I would just use TR55 .050 for now. When you get the nitrous, change to a colder plug.

.

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Ok, yeah i was thinking just the tr55 for now..i didnt know you had to gap them though? I just picked up some supertech fuel injector cleaner, prob skip on the seafoam, and ill clean my maf today see if that helps at all..

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Always at least check the gaps for accuracy. If a box gets dropped in shipping or banged or people have taken them out of the box to loo kat them and drop them.......you might put a few in that just aren't right. Get the tool and check them. It takes 5 seconds per plug to check.

Also, put dielectric grease all over both the plug tip and ceramic. Also, put a blob inside the spark plug wire end and up into the coil port. As well as anti-sieze on the threads.

THEN......only put them in hand tight with a socket. Hold the socket by hand and tighten it as much as possible. Then with the ratchet, literally just snug them on. You'll have a very easy time getting them out next time.

.

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Awesome thanks for the info ill do that when i get them. Where does everyone get there plugs from usually? Just anywhere?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Around here, every Advance Auto has them, and there's 5 of them within 7 miles of my house. I would think most parts places do.

.

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Well yesterday I got my plugs swapped with the tr55's and the previous owner has changed the easiest first 3 plugs on the drivers side with Bosch plugs and left the rest anywas got em switched and they looked pretty done, I did a compression test and found all the cylinders to be around 165 + - 5 lbs/square inch so I didn't even bother doing a wet test, car ran better after I did that I also fixed the secondary air code because when I took it of it was clogged with the old gasket that must have broke. The problem is still there though.. How could I be looking this much gas??

The Mighty Texan

iTrader: (4)

Sorry I'm on my damn phone so it's slaughtered what i tried to say, plus im a couple in now