Running a little warm
DISCLAIMER....you could be the 1 in a million that has a sheared shaft.....but then you would overheat into the red zone in 10-15 minutes of driving.
What do you mean it has NO pressure.......?? Can you take it for a 30 minute drive, pop the hood and take the radiator cap off and no pressure is in there????
NOT THAT I RECOMMEND TRYING THAT............
Usually if you have heating issues at low speeds or city driving....the fans have a problem.
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Last edited by LS6427; Sep 21, 2011 at 03:14 PM.
i meant not like blown headgasket type pressure.....the fans kick on right at 210. As far as the pump if they will not completely stop pumping is there any way for them to get weak and not pump enough at idle? I just thought it was kinda odd that if you sit there and rev the motor repeatedly the temp goes down pretty quickly, then let it idle and back to 235 it goes.
i meant not like blown headgasket type pressure.....the fans kick on right at 210. As far as the pump if they will not completely stop pumping is there any way for them to get weak and not pump enough at idle? I just thought it was kinda odd that if you sit there and rev the motor repeatedly the temp goes down pretty quickly, then let it idle and back to 235 it goes.
***If you have a partially stuck open t-stat, which I had happen to mine last week, when you rev it more coolant will flow past simply because its ramming the coolant by the t-stat and helping it circulate and cool....but when it idles less coolant will be flowing by that partially open t-stat causing the temp to increase because of poor circulation. Maybe thats whats happening.***
The water pump will increase its volume of flow as rpm's increase.
Are BOTH fans coming on together...and do they go into LOW and HIGH settiings together? If they don't work TOGETHER all the time and at both speeds...something is wrong.
I would try a new t-stat......if thats not it, you can just return it for a refund......10-15 minutes of work to rule that out and your money back. Just clean it real good and tell them it didn't fit.

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Hell if I'd ever want my engine running that damn hot................I drove around yesterday and the day before with my new t-stat and purposely got the engine hot, with the A/C on the entire time. No way I could get higher than 216*F. Talking temp readings right on the head, brass temp sensor and the coolant line coming right out of the head.
If I cruised steady and then pulled over to check....temps were hanging around 188*F and 198*F.
Thats how I like it.
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) But ill check that also. Thats kind of what i was thinking about higher rpms "raming" coolant through a partially stuck tstat.
) But ill check that also. Thats kind of what i was thinking about higher rpms "raming" coolant through a partially stuck tstat.Mine was about 50% clogged with debris after 5-6 years. It was ridiculous what I found in there. I cleaned it and I ran ALLOT cooler. Actually, if I turned the a/c "on" I would straight up...overheat, nothing I could do except except shut the a/c off to cool it down.
So again....if its dirty as hell it might not get that suction of airflow by the fans at idle or in city driving......but once that ram air is rammed up in there while the car is moving..might help cool it down.
Pics of mine below.
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-start it up when COLD with the radiator cap off
-while you are standing there waiting for it to warm up...squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses rapidly and firmly 20-30 times each. Go back and forth 3 times to each hose. This will move the air bubble past the t-stat allowing hot coolant to touch it, allowing it to open and let coolant flow through.
If that doesn't work, the t-stat is not opening.
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