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Performance on Hold, Car Needs Some TLC

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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 12:13 PM
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Default Performance on Hold, Car Needs Some TLC

I have come out of denial and realized that its time to spend a few hundred dollars on maintaining my car. My ol LT1 now has 118,000 miles on it. I need plugs, wires, u joints, tranny mount, motor mounts, change my oil, change my tranny fluid, etc, etc. Anything else I'm missing for a real good tune up on my baby? I know what plugs and fluids I am gonna use, but does anyone have suggestions on tranny/motor mounts (I want all poly mounts because I have ripped 2 rubber tranny mounts in 2 months). Anyways, I'm open for suggestions. Fire away.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 12:40 PM
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depends on how far you want to take it. I would do fuel filter, coolant flush, maybe brake fluid. If youre gonna do plugs and wires, once youre inside the car check your opti for any sign of excess wear. Might want to get a new one depending on budget. Check how worn out your break pads are. Etc.

Last but not least, a tune up wont hurt.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 01:31 PM
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I forgot to mention brakes. I'm getting drilled/slotted rotors all the way around. Not sure what pads yet. Fuel filter is now on my list. Don't know how I forgot that. A coolant flush is definitely in order. It's still got freakin dexcool **** in it. The opti is good. I would still like to get a new one but I'm not sure on my budget right now. After all this is done I will be getting a set of long tubes, 100 shot will be installed, and then I will send my pcm off for a good 93 octane tune. Then suspension, gears, and a bunch of weight loss. But hell I'm getting off topic...

Any more to add anyone? Also, what tranny fluids are you guys running in your t56s?
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 02:26 PM
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If you went throught 2 rubber tranny mounts in 2 months i say that there is another problem there that is causing excessive movement in you tailshaft, not just the mount. get a good set of Hawk pads and save your money on the drilled/slotted rotors. If anything just get a set of slotted. Regular old Dex III/Mobile 1 ATF is a good choice
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 03:18 PM
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Well I do race my car every weekend, multiple passes. I drive like a bat outta hell regularly. But I do agree that I shouldn't break tranny mounts that quickly. I just have no idea what the problem could be. I know I need new u joints, maybe that's the problem?

And on the rotors, the front two are toast. Total garbage. The back left is warped. I have to replace them so I figure I would do it all the way right.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 05:33 PM
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 05:39 PM
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I feel you man. I was supposed to toss a cam in with an all new valvetrain and get some new brakes...now I have a crazy crazked radiator and I need to replace my rear main seal.

Good luck!
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 06:23 PM
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Well ****. I really need some help now. So about the tranny mount. My shifter moves up and down when I lay into the go pedal. But on the way home from work today, it started doing it horribly. My tranny mount is toast. So what the hell could cause my car to rip tranny mounts? Wtf! I am at a loss here.... My motor mounts are **** too, maybe that's the cause.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Mississippi
Well ****. I really need some help now. So about the tranny mount. My shifter moves up and down when I lay into the go pedal. But on the way home from work today, it started doing it horribly. My tranny mount is toast. So what the hell could cause my car to rip tranny mounts? Wtf! I am at a loss here.... My motor mounts are **** too, maybe that's the cause.
Probably. The motor is linked straight to the transmission, so the motor jumps, then the transmission jumps too. Eventually it breaks.

Make sure you lube your doors and chassis, bleed your brake fluid, change rear end oil. Check all the fuses and lights, clean your engine bay, detail inside and out. Maybe recharge A/C too. Check all the lines and seals you can for leaks. Also check suspension to make sure ball joints/bearings and all are working fine and that your bumpstops are still good. Clean battery connections. Check all your speakers to make sure they're working. That's about all I can think of right now
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Metal Muscle
Probably. The motor is linked straight to the transmission, so the motor jumps, then the transmission jumps too. Eventually it breaks.

Make sure you lube your doors and chassis, bleed your brake fluid, change rear end oil. Check all the fuses and lights, clean your engine bay, detail inside and out. Maybe recharge A/C too. Check all the lines and seals you can for leaks. Also check suspension to make sure ball joints/bearings and all are working fine and that your bumpstops are still good. Clean battery connections. Check all your speakers to make sure they're working. That's about all I can think of right now
I just changed the rear diff oil. Full of RP now. Engine bay is spotless (one of my OCD things so I keep that clean). All the suspension will be replaced soon. Battery terminals are brand new along with battery. I will be bleeding my brake fluid, thanks to my buddy's new tool (some badass vacuum bleeding tool thing?) I just found a little oil leak. IDK where the hell its coming from.

And an update on that tranny mount: I started to take it all apart down there and look at the mount. I put the car on jack stands and started jacking up the tranny. To my surprise, the tranny just lifted from the mount completely. The rubber and metal on the mount had completely separated. No wear at all on the rubber. It all still looked brand new. The rubber had cleanly separated from the metal part of the mount. I am assuming that it was a faulty mount. I went to AutoZone and they replaced it for free. Put it on and now the car feels amazing again. I will still be getting poly motor and trans mounts any ways.
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