Could this be the thermostat?
Could this be the thermostat? I'm having a bit of a temperature issue in my 2002 Z28. Last night, the heat completely stopped working out of nowhere and is now blowing out ice cold air regardless of the settings. Also worth noting; the temperature gauge sits right at 210 now, and it used to sit a little bit below that (maybe 180-200 if I had to guess). Curiously enough, it goes up slightly when the "heat" is on. I checked my coolant and it certainly is due time to change it, but would that cause the heat to go out so abruptly like it did? Could it be thermostat related?
Could just be a vacuum issue and your cold is not switching to heat when you turn the ****.
A blockage to the heater core SUDDENLY is so ridiculously rare and almost impossible.......if the vacuum line comes off it will stay in the last position. Go check your small plastic black "T" fitting over by the PCM....see if the tubes are all in place.
They crack and fall apart too....
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A blockage to the heater core SUDDENLY is so ridiculously rare and almost impossible.......if the vacuum line comes off it will stay in the last position. Go check your small plastic black "T" fitting over by the PCM....see if the tubes are all in place.
They crack and fall apart too....
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The main vacuum line might have also fallen off the back of the intake.....its easy to reach back and feel for it, and reattach it....but you have to know exactly where to feel. Its right under the MAP sensor and points towards the passengers side.
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I checked all of the hoses and they're all secure, though it's possible that they could be cracked most of them are factory hoses. I also replaced the HVAC fuse for good measure. Is there anything else I should look for?
You may have a linkage issue behind that dash when you turn that ****....maybe its not actually turning anything.
You could have that rare blockage.........very easy to check. Pop both of your heater hoses off the water pump ports, takes about 2 minutes to do that. Blow into one hose and see if water shoots out the other hose. Thats it. If it does, heater core is not blocked.
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UPDATE: My car overheated a couple of nights ago on the way home from work and I had to have it towed home 
. On the way up there the heat was working again, but just faintly (strong air flow just weak heat) and I looked over at my temp gauge and notice it was sitting at about 240 O_O! So I turned my heat off and the temp went down to normal operating temp (well, about 210) and it drove fine the rest of the way to work. Then on the way back as soon as I hit the highway the temp took off like a rocket with no heat on or anything.
Thanks I'll check that today. I'm about to go to Auto Zone and get new spark plugs and wires because I figured I would change those today while I'm flushing my radiator (my car could certainly use it). Any tips/advice? I won't need a torque wrench for the spark plugs will I? I haven't went and gotten mine yet.
. On the way up there the heat was working again, but just faintly (strong air flow just weak heat) and I looked over at my temp gauge and notice it was sitting at about 240 O_O! So I turned my heat off and the temp went down to normal operating temp (well, about 210) and it drove fine the rest of the way to work. Then on the way back as soon as I hit the highway the temp took off like a rocket with no heat on or anything.Thanks I'll check that today. I'm about to go to Auto Zone and get new spark plugs and wires because I figured I would change those today while I'm flushing my radiator (my car could certainly use it). Any tips/advice? I won't need a torque wrench for the spark plugs will I? I haven't went and gotten mine yet
. UPDATE: My car overheated a couple of nights ago on the way home from work and I had to have it towed home . On the way up there the heat was working again, but just faintly (strong air flow just weak heat) and I looked over at my temp gauge and notice it was sitting at about 240 O_O! So I turned my heat off and the temp went down to normal operating temp (well, about 210) and it drove fine the rest of the way to work. Then on the way back as soon as I hit the highway the temp took off like a rocket with no heat on or anything.
Thanks I'll check that today. I'm about to go to Auto Zone and get new spark plugs and wires because I figured I would change those today while I'm flushing my radiator (my car could certainly use it). Any tips/advice? I won't need a torque wrench for the spark plugs will I? I haven't went and gotten mine yet.
. On the way up there the heat was working again, but just faintly (strong air flow just weak heat) and I looked over at my temp gauge and notice it was sitting at about 240 O_O! So I turned my heat off and the temp went down to normal operating temp (well, about 210) and it drove fine the rest of the way to work. Then on the way back as soon as I hit the highway the temp took off like a rocket with no heat on or anything.Thanks I'll check that today. I'm about to go to Auto Zone and get new spark plugs and wires because I figured I would change those today while I'm flushing my radiator (my car could certainly use it). Any tips/advice? I won't need a torque wrench for the spark plugs will I? I haven't went and gotten mine yet
.Only one thing can make your temp spike upward FAST....a sticking t-stat. Everything else is a slow progression overheat. Or maybe a fast progression, but it won't just slam up there.
Change it, takes 5 minutes.
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Verdad Gallardo Only thing that can stop and start coolant flow is the t-stat opening and closing.
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Started tearing everything down today to get the thermostat off and along the way I figured I would try turning each of my pulleys because I've been having a very distinguishable squeaking coming from under my hood for the past 2 months but it hasn't given me any problems. The water pump pulley is the squeaky culprit. It isn't going to be quite as simple as repacking the bearings though I'm sure, because it looks like the entire pulley is worn where the belt guides are. So I just need to replace the pulley, this could also be causing my temperature issue. Should I replace the entire water pump as well, or do you think I could get away with just replacing the pulley? I'm going to replace the thermostat regardless just for good measure.
What size is the clamp around the upper radiator hose to the block? It pissed me off royally so I broke the bitch with my channel locks and I just want to replace it with a band clamp. Those OE clamps are an absolute joke. On another note, I flushed my radiator and the coolant reservoir, and I replaced the thermostat today. So as soon as I can get all the hoses hooked back up (WITH BAND CLAMPS) I'm going to run some new coolant through it and see if it fires and runs at a good temp.
What size is the clamp around the upper radiator hose to the block? It pissed me off royally so I broke the bitch with my channel locks and I just want to replace it with a band clamp. Those OE clamps are an absolute joke. On another note, I flushed my radiator and the coolant reservoir, and I replaced the thermostat today. So as soon as I can get all the hoses hooked back up (WITH BAND CLAMPS) I'm going to run some new coolant through it and see if it fires and runs at a good temp.
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You have no heat because you are losing coolant and the level is too low. Find out where you are losing coolant and you will get your heat back. Don't just go replacing random parts.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Acworth, GA
Belt slipping on water pump pulley = no water pump rotation.
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Acworth, GA
How does the thermostat not opening cause a lack of coolant flow through the heater core?
Started tearing everything down today to get the thermostat off and along the way I figured I would try turning each of my pulleys because I've been having a very distinguishable squeaking coming from under my hood for the past 2 months but it hasn't given me any problems. The water pump pulley is the squeaky culprit. It isn't going to be quite as simple as repacking the bearings though I'm sure, because it looks like the entire pulley is worn where the belt guides are. So I just need to replace the pulley, this could also be causing my temperature issue. Should I replace the entire water pump as well, or do you think I could get away with just replacing the pulley? I'm going to replace the thermostat regardless just for good measure.
I'm not losing coolant though. When I checked the overflow reservoir it was probably twice as full as it should be. I'm not mindlessly replacing parts, so far I've only replaced the thermostat. I think that the water pump pulley is worn in places which is causing the belt to not spin fast enough, which is what's causing my drop in idle as well as my drop in voltage I've been having. Just a guess, but I'm almost positive the water pump needs to be replaced after talking to some people.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Mid-MO
Like the pump bearing 'sticks' momentarily locking the pump and the belt skids.
Change the pump AND the belt.
The belt is fine, I inspected that. I got the new water pump on and all the hoses reconnnected and the car ran just fine. I've yet to drive it more than maybe 5 miles, but so far everything runs much better. No more squeaking/grinding noise under the hood, the temp sits at right about 185-190, and no more SES light (I doubt that was related though because it's been on for a couple of months, but who knows). Thanks to everyone that helped, hopefully it'll survive the 90 mile drive that I have tonight.
