Alternator Wire Help
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Alternator Wire Help Guys I am having problems with my 2000 SS. The old alternator wasn't charging, so I replaced it, BUT I tested the old alternator and it is good, it put out 15+v. Continuesly when I got it tested at work(O'reilley). I'm guessing its going to be the excitor wire, and ordered one from work:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...keyword=pt5674
Which wire is the one that I use? Do I just match it with my old one, or are the connectors different? I'm asking because I've been trying to get this car running for some time now and really don't want to mess things up again. PLEASE HELP!
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...keyword=pt5674
Which wire is the one that I use? Do I just match it with my old one, or are the connectors different? I'm asking because I've been trying to get this car running for some time now and really don't want to mess things up again. PLEASE HELP!
match it with the old one. make sure you solder the wire to the original wire or have a good crimp and wrap it with electrical tape. also check your grounds. they can get corroded and cause issues too.
This one is what everyone uses......
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-ALTERNAT...r#ht_500wt_715
Use butt connectors. Then shrink wrap. I didn't solder mine. (going on 6 years with my new wire) I wouldn't use electrical tape, that wire takes a beating in the rain, electrical tape won't last as long as shrink wrap. Dodge Chrysler shrink wrappers are the best ones made, they have a glue thats inside them that cools off like apoxy.
.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-ALTERNAT...r#ht_500wt_715
Use butt connectors. Then shrink wrap. I didn't solder mine. (going on 6 years with my new wire) I wouldn't use electrical tape, that wire takes a beating in the rain, electrical tape won't last as long as shrink wrap. Dodge Chrysler shrink wrappers are the best ones made, they have a glue thats inside them that cools off like apoxy.
.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
I have another question. I was just out there and I checked the excitor wire, the original one, and there's nothing wrong with the connection. Power steering fluid fell in the connector, can that be the cause of the problem? I sprayed wd40 into the connector and tried cleaning it out with some towels, and got it pretty clean, but that didn't help. For the grounds, are there any grounds for the alternator? I disconnected two ground from that area when I was doing the heaD gaskets, one on the left fender side right next to the radiator, and another one going to the engine on the driver side that appears to be holding onto the oxygen sensor, what are those for?
this isnt a help desk. you cant demand answers. figure it out yourself or wait for someone to have free time and care enough to stop and help.
YES PS fluid is corrosive, they have been known to kill altlernators ever since our 4th Gen's came out. clean all connections and it wouldnt hurt to replace that plug anyways as a lot of people loosen up the stock one unknowingly when they replace the alternator. there is a ground strap from the back of the alternator to the chassis on driver side, cant miss it its a strap not a cable. i dont know every little ground, but they are all there for a reason to make sure they are clean and bolt them back up.
YES PS fluid is corrosive, they have been known to kill altlernators ever since our 4th Gen's came out. clean all connections and it wouldnt hurt to replace that plug anyways as a lot of people loosen up the stock one unknowingly when they replace the alternator. there is a ground strap from the back of the alternator to the chassis on driver side, cant miss it its a strap not a cable. i dont know every little ground, but they are all there for a reason to make sure they are clean and bolt them back up.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
My bad, it's just that this car is a PITA! I should've kept my '78 Z28. I Think I put thread lock on one or both of those ground straps, I'll have to check that out tomorrow. I just want to drive this thing already.
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
There is no ground strap (nor ground wire) connected directly to the alternator. The ground strap that runs near it goes from the engine to the frame.
I've had alternators that didn't charge properly even when they tested fine on a bench tester. The bench test just can't duplicate the heat that the alternator sees in the engine bay and under continuious use. If the exciter wire is OK, then I would just suspect a faulty alternator.
I've had alternators that didn't charge properly even when they tested fine on a bench tester. The bench test just can't duplicate the heat that the alternator sees in the engine bay and under continuious use. If the exciter wire is OK, then I would just suspect a faulty alternator.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
I just put a brand new, not remanufactured, alternator in there. I didn't feel like pulling that alternator back out, but looks like I'm going to have to. I'm going to check all grounds and see if that helps.
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 812
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Guys I am having problems with my 2000 SS. The old alternator wasn't charging, so I replaced it, BUT I tested the old alternator and it is good, it put out 15+v. Continuesly when I got it tested at work(O'reilley). I'm guessing its going to be the excitor wire, and ordered one from work:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...keyword=pt5674
Which wire is the one that I use? Do I just match it with my old one, or are the connectors different? I'm asking because I've been trying to get this car running for some time now and really don't want to mess things up again. PLEASE HELP!
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...keyword=pt5674
Which wire is the one that I use? Do I just match it with my old one, or are the connectors different? I'm asking because I've been trying to get this car running for some time now and really don't want to mess things up again. PLEASE HELP!
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
I just got the plug today. I had to special order it from my job yesterday. I'm hoping to install it tomorrow before or after work and see if that fixes my problem. I'm really hoping that this is all I need, even though my excitor wire looks fine. I wish I would have done this while the alternator is out. I managed to unplug the connection from the top, so I'm going to see if I can replace it from up top as well.
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 812
Likes: 0
From: NJ
here's a wiring diagram.....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/70148615@N03/7147243471/http://www.flickr.com/photos/70148615@N03/7147243471/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/70148615@N03/, on Flickr
the wire from the battery needs to have 12v. without that, the alternator cannot produce amperage, no matter how fast you spin it.
also note that the computer controls the alternator in this application.
check for voltage on that terminal of the alt. if it's not there, it won't charge.
since chevy probably has that cable routed in strange and wondrous ways, use a jumper cable. run it from battery positive to the big cable terminal on the back of the alternator. then take another jumper cable. run it from the alternator housing to a good ground, and see what happens.
also, try this......
1. Disconnect the alternator plug in connector, start the engine and check the voltage on the Red wire for more than 5 volts. If less, check the wiring to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
2. Reconnect the alternator, start the engine and with a test light connected to B+, back probe the Red wire at the alternator plug in connector. If the alternator starts charging, and the Red wire voltage was correct in step 1, the regulator in the alternator is faulty.
sorry it's out of order,.,,,,uits late,m and i'm tired.......hope this helps though...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/70148615@N03/7147243471/http://www.flickr.com/photos/70148615@N03/7147243471/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/70148615@N03/, on Flickr
the wire from the battery needs to have 12v. without that, the alternator cannot produce amperage, no matter how fast you spin it.
also note that the computer controls the alternator in this application.
check for voltage on that terminal of the alt. if it's not there, it won't charge.
since chevy probably has that cable routed in strange and wondrous ways, use a jumper cable. run it from battery positive to the big cable terminal on the back of the alternator. then take another jumper cable. run it from the alternator housing to a good ground, and see what happens.
also, try this......
1. Disconnect the alternator plug in connector, start the engine and check the voltage on the Red wire for more than 5 volts. If less, check the wiring to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
2. Reconnect the alternator, start the engine and with a test light connected to B+, back probe the Red wire at the alternator plug in connector. If the alternator starts charging, and the Red wire voltage was correct in step 1, the regulator in the alternator is faulty.
sorry it's out of order,.,,,,uits late,m and i'm tired.......hope this helps though...
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
1ltcap that is just what I was looking for. I really needed that wiring diagram and those tips. I will definitely try those things out and see if that works. Thank you guys for being so patient with me. I'm just trying to get this thing running! I'm about to pull my hair out already!