Car isn't feeling as fast..
#1
Car isn't feeling as fast..
Previous owner said the fuel pump was replaced summer of 2010 and i have the reciepts. I changed the oil/coolant about a month ago and reoiled my k&n. I did get the codes 0171 and 0174. Car hesitates when accelerating at times. I use to walk my friends 2v and the kills aren't as violent now. What all should I check and replace? oh yeah, i also noticed my car doesn't kick down a gear much anymore.. like a 25-35 roll i can floor it and it'll just take its time. Plugs? wires? tune? fuel filter? sensors?
Car has 109k miles, k&n, slp lid, slp maf (previous owner purchased, I've never had a problem with it) cutout, and adjusted shift firmness.
Car has 109k miles, k&n, slp lid, slp maf (previous owner purchased, I've never had a problem with it) cutout, and adjusted shift firmness.
#2
Does it hesitate when you get on it? How does it feel when you stomp the pedal and slight hesitation? I would either check the MAF and reset it and if that doesn't fix it then you can move onto spark plugs, and check your fuel pressure. That would be the simple route to go..
#4
Does it hesitate when you get on it? How does it feel when you stomp the pedal and slight hesitation? I would either check the MAF and reset it and if that doesn't fix it then you can move onto spark plugs, and check your fuel pressure. That would be the simple route to go..
Running lean.
#5
Fuel filter might be a good start. If the pump was replaced but no filter, some **** might have been kicked up in the tank and it's probably sitting in your fuel filter right now.
In fact, even if it was replaced, it still might be worth looking into. If you're running lean at high RPM's, it seems possible that your high fuel flow is getting cut off by something.
BTW, filter costs $13 or so and if your lines aren't rusted up bad it'll take you 30 minutes to replace.
In fact, even if it was replaced, it still might be worth looking into. If you're running lean at high RPM's, it seems possible that your high fuel flow is getting cut off by something.
BTW, filter costs $13 or so and if your lines aren't rusted up bad it'll take you 30 minutes to replace.
#6
First thing.....get that piece of total crap K&N filter off the car.....clean the MAF real good, get a paper filter and report back.
Seriously.......The oil on those filters KILLS MAF's and their ability to perform properly especially at WOT........
They should be made illegal in all 50 states....LOL
.
Seriously.......The oil on those filters KILLS MAF's and their ability to perform properly especially at WOT........
They should be made illegal in all 50 states....LOL
.
#7
First thing.....get that piece of total crap K&N filter off the car.....clean the MAF real good, get a paper filter and report back.
Seriously.......The oil on those filters KILLS MAF's and their ability to perform properly especially at WOT........
They should be made illegal in all 50 states....LOL
.
Seriously.......The oil on those filters KILLS MAF's and their ability to perform properly especially at WOT........
They should be made illegal in all 50 states....LOL
.
Although i do use k&n, "oiling" or recharging them is about the worse thing you can do to any car using a maf. I had the exact problems the OP posted, and it turned out to be a thick layer of crap accumulated across the sensor. Spray it off with actual MAF CLEANER and you should be good to go, ...unless of course it's something else lol
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#8
First thing.....get that piece of total crap K&N filter off the car.....clean the MAF real good, get a paper filter and report back.
Seriously.......The oil on those filters KILLS MAF's and their ability to perform properly especially at WOT........
They should be made illegal in all 50 states....LOL
.
Seriously.......The oil on those filters KILLS MAF's and their ability to perform properly especially at WOT........
They should be made illegal in all 50 states....LOL
.
i pretty much agree with this.
Although i do use k&n, "oiling" or recharging them is about the worse thing you can do to any car using a maf. I had the exact problems the OP posted, and it turned out to be a thick layer of crap accumulated across the sensor. Spray it off with actual MAF CLEANER and you should be good to go, ...unless of course it's something else lol
Although i do use k&n, "oiling" or recharging them is about the worse thing you can do to any car using a maf. I had the exact problems the OP posted, and it turned out to be a thick layer of crap accumulated across the sensor. Spray it off with actual MAF CLEANER and you should be good to go, ...unless of course it's something else lol
#9
Yes....everyone carries it. I think its CRC brand.
Do not touch the little sensor wires with anything except the spray itself. Spray half the can right through the MAF screen and clean the front of all the little sensors. Then of course, hit the back some too.
Then spray the IAT sensor in the air lid. Use whatever might be left to clean the TB blade.
*****and get a paper filter. K&N filters do nothing except contaminate the MAF and it allows more dirt to get through and into the engine, causing more wear on the rings. They are complete fraud garbage...........the first time you run through rain after oiling it and letting it dry...the rain mist reactivates the oil and it goes right onto the MAF. Decreasing the MAFs ability to give you peak performance. This is a FACT......
Leave them to the race cars that rebuild their engines after each race and don;'t care about extra dirt getting into their engines.
.
#11
I guess I'm going to get a fuel filter, Lucas fuel injector cleaner, maf cleaner, and a wix 46144 air filter. see how that does and I'll most likely be ordering msd wires and ngk55 plugs at .60 gap to change our later this week .. I'll report back!
#12
With the engine having 109K+ on it. I am surprised that no one mentioned seafoaming yet. That will likely give you a few horses and maybe even some better mpg.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-your-car.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-your-car.html
#13
With the engine having 109K+ on it. I am surprised that no one mentioned seafoaming yet. That will likely give you a few horses and maybe even some better mpg.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-your-car.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-your-car.html
#15
Not trying to be a dick but I use a rechargeable filter you guys are right about the oil. You don't need to put a lot of the oil on the filter and it will be fine. The filter does work just don't put a lot of oil.
#17
Well I drove to work this morning, drove the car like a normal person would. Hesitated a little. After work I got some Lucas injector cleaner and got some gas. Drove home and kinda opened it up a bit didn't seemto hesitate as much.. I have to take about an hour round trip tomorrow to meet with my recruiter so it'll be good for the car ao it can cycle that cleaner. Ordered a wix 46144 air filter and ngk tr55 plugs/msd wires today. Read to gap them .050 - .060, Probably do .055 when they get here. Also going to the parts store tomorrow to get an ac delco fuel filter and an air tube gasket to make the plug change easier, maf cleaner too. Just an update! I'll try my best to search for any leaks.. I hate that everything is a tight fit