Overheating 370/D1
2000 Z28 A4
370 lQ9
D1 16lbs
stock water pump
NEW thermo stat
stock radiator
story to issue.....
Problem i'm having now is my motor is overheating, when this first started happening i went into my HP scanner and had the fan turned on the whole time i drive it, still over heated after stoping a few times (also after a few miles of driving.)
i have change the thermo stat and drove it over ten miles and was perfect, i stopped to get gad (maybe 5mins) got back in and the gauge was reading 260, well i thought it was just from sitting and needed to circulate some, went down to 220 roughly and started climbing back up. stopped to let it cool off and drove to my buddies house and almost reached 250 reading off my scanner. I let it cool all the way below 210 and started it up let it sit while idles went back inside let it run for 15mins roughly and didnt even get over 210, fan came on and was keeping it cool.
Drove it again but doing highway of course and stayed cooled, went back through town started climbing again.
i'm planning on changing water pump out but was wondering if my radiator is to small to keep it cool.....
any suggestions guy
thanks Justin
You probably have a sticking t-stat (not fully opening sometimes). And YES, lots of times a new t-stat is a dud......or that single fan isn't cutting it. The factory DUAL fans are so good because they suck air through more surface area than a single fan can. ALSO....the factory fan SHROUD is worth its weight in "Helium 3".....
If that is not on there....you'll have a hell of a time keeping cool. The shroud allows the fan to be effective...with the shroud the fan(s) are KILLED in their efficiency. The shroud allows air to be pulled across the entire surface of the radiator. Without it...or without it mounted properly and tightly, the only air that gets sucked through the radiator is the area of the radiator over the circumference of the fan blade, and even then a lot of that is lost to the sides of the fan blade.
.....that said......how are you so sure ALL the air is out...? Only way to verify is to start the engine cold with the radiator cap OFF. Stand there and wait to see the coolant start to flow after the t-stat opens. If the level does NOT drop down when the coolant starts to flow, then the air is out. That is the ONLY way to know FOR SURE.......
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Will update on if it works or not.
Thabks for the info everyone.
Put the t-stat back in and BLEED that sucker......
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If this is just a low speed problem without the A/C on and in moderate weather then I'd think everything points to the radiator.






