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Overheating 370/D1

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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 08:10 PM
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Default Overheating 370/D1

ok guy car is

2000 Z28 A4
370 lQ9
D1 16lbs
stock water pump
NEW thermo stat
stock radiator

story to issue.....

Problem i'm having now is my motor is overheating, when this first started happening i went into my HP scanner and had the fan turned on the whole time i drive it, still over heated after stoping a few times (also after a few miles of driving.)
i have change the thermo stat and drove it over ten miles and was perfect, i stopped to get gad (maybe 5mins) got back in and the gauge was reading 260, well i thought it was just from sitting and needed to circulate some, went down to 220 roughly and started climbing back up. stopped to let it cool off and drove to my buddies house and almost reached 250 reading off my scanner. I let it cool all the way below 210 and started it up let it sit while idles went back inside let it run for 15mins roughly and didnt even get over 210, fan came on and was keeping it cool.
Drove it again but doing highway of course and stayed cooled, went back through town started climbing again.

i'm planning on changing water pump out but was wondering if my radiator is to small to keep it cool.....


any suggestions guy
thanks Justin
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 08:30 PM
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single fan i assume , and ac was being used ? hows your highway temps ?
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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is ALL the air bled from stat swaps ? ?
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ramairetransam
single fan i assume , and ac was being used ? hows your highway temps ?
Yes single fan, no A/C being used, and highway temp is good.


Originally Posted by sjsingle1
is ALL the air bled from stat swaps ? ?
And yes
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1freak33
Yes single fan, no A/C being used, and highway temp is good.
Pointing to radiator, then... Have you cleaned the radiator and the A/C condenser? (I had a dead bird jammed in mine once. That didn't help things...)
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 09:01 PM
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It's NOT the water pump......water pumps always move water, period. If the shaft happens to shear you will overheat ALL THE TIME no matter what.

You probably have a sticking t-stat (not fully opening sometimes). And YES, lots of times a new t-stat is a dud......or that single fan isn't cutting it. The factory DUAL fans are so good because they suck air through more surface area than a single fan can. ALSO....the factory fan SHROUD is worth its weight in "Helium 3".....

If that is not on there....you'll have a hell of a time keeping cool. The shroud allows the fan to be effective...with the shroud the fan(s) are KILLED in their efficiency. The shroud allows air to be pulled across the entire surface of the radiator. Without it...or without it mounted properly and tightly, the only air that gets sucked through the radiator is the area of the radiator over the circumference of the fan blade, and even then a lot of that is lost to the sides of the fan blade.

.....that said......how are you so sure ALL the air is out...? Only way to verify is to start the engine cold with the radiator cap OFF. Stand there and wait to see the coolant start to flow after the t-stat opens. If the level does NOT drop down when the coolant starts to flow, then the air is out. That is the ONLY way to know FOR SURE.......

.
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 09:08 PM
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When you installed the new thermostat you may have gotten a good amount of air in the system causing an air blockage so coolant cant flow. Did you try a proper flush? I would try what LS6427 suggested.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 05:12 PM
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Justin I agree, I say we bleed the system and make sure all the air is out and check the AC condenser.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 08:09 PM
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I make sure in morning that the air is completly out of system when i get off work, and also double check make sure my radiator and ac condenser are both clean.

Will update on if it works or not.

Thabks for the info everyone.
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 06:19 PM
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Will be changing the stat again, doesnt seem like it is getting water flow with cap off except from the head hose.
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Old Oct 22, 2012 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1freak33
Will be changing the stat again, doesnt seem like it is getting water flow with cap off except from the head hose.
Then you have an air bubble on the engine side of the t-stat. Remove the t-stat, then put the t-stat housing back on. Start the engine and see if the coolant is flowing nicely IMMEDIATELY. If it is, the water pump did not shear a shaft.

Put the t-stat back in and BLEED that sucker......

.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 06:11 AM
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If the temp is good on the highway, I doubt that there's an air bubble behind the thermostat or any other air problem. If the fluid is circulating on the highway, then any air will get bled out through the radiator and overflow.

If this is just a low speed problem without the A/C on and in moderate weather then I'd think everything points to the radiator.
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