Loud tick/tap after operating temp is reached
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Loud tick/tap after operating temp is reached
Ok for those that haven't seen the build thread here it is just to get an idea of what was done
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...5-3-build.html
http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=61831
Otherwise its PRC stage 2.5 5.3 heads
ls7 lifter
hardened 7.4" pushrods (measure 7.3875 @ .050" preload)
Comp cams trunion upgraded rockers
.675" Dual valve springs
Loud tick, car misfiring, NO CEL. Noise sounds as if it is on the driver side.
But started happening the week after the engine swap was finished. At first I thought maybe it was just an exhaust leak and ended up finding a crack in one of the collectors on the driver side head. Welded that up best I could and noise was gone at idle, started driving home and after it warmed up and had a load on it started tapping again. Same noise and no difference in volume
When I finally got off the highway it started stumbling a little. So I decided to recheck my valvetrain (torque on rockers, pushro length, collapsed lifter, springs)
Ended up finding a broken valve spring, one of the new ones that just went it. Thought that has to be it. Got the new spring installed and double checked pushrod length with the comp cams tool. With .050" preload I came up with a 7.3875 pushro so the 7.4 was good and put me at a preload of .063". Retorqued everything and started it up. Again noise is gone alowed it to idle to operating temp., no issues. Drove the car and 5 minutes into driving started tapping and missing again. (broken spring was on the passenger side 5th spring back)
Got to my buddies house and pulled the valve covers again thinking has to be another broken spring. Didn't find anything!!!! Cranked it with the vavle covers off watching the springs and valvetrain. Didn't see anything extraordinary. Put it back together. Noise was gone untill started driving again.
I don't have any check engine light. Vehicle does misfire when it does it but I can't monitor individual cylinders with my scanner to see where it is coming from, I tried pulling plug wires see if I can here the engine acoustics change but it doesn't go away and just arcs to the coil bracket.
I didn't see any other arcing going on or any signs or arcing
Think that covers everything I checked/did, may have forgotten something.....
Today I swapped all 8 coils and plugs wires with a buddy and same noise with the same conditions.
Lifters? bad lifter after warm up
Any suggestions, or experience with coils failing like this(if thats whats going) please chime in
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...5-3-build.html
http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=61831
Otherwise its PRC stage 2.5 5.3 heads
ls7 lifter
hardened 7.4" pushrods (measure 7.3875 @ .050" preload)
Comp cams trunion upgraded rockers
.675" Dual valve springs
Loud tick, car misfiring, NO CEL. Noise sounds as if it is on the driver side.
But started happening the week after the engine swap was finished. At first I thought maybe it was just an exhaust leak and ended up finding a crack in one of the collectors on the driver side head. Welded that up best I could and noise was gone at idle, started driving home and after it warmed up and had a load on it started tapping again. Same noise and no difference in volume
When I finally got off the highway it started stumbling a little. So I decided to recheck my valvetrain (torque on rockers, pushro length, collapsed lifter, springs)
Ended up finding a broken valve spring, one of the new ones that just went it. Thought that has to be it. Got the new spring installed and double checked pushrod length with the comp cams tool. With .050" preload I came up with a 7.3875 pushro so the 7.4 was good and put me at a preload of .063". Retorqued everything and started it up. Again noise is gone alowed it to idle to operating temp., no issues. Drove the car and 5 minutes into driving started tapping and missing again. (broken spring was on the passenger side 5th spring back)
Got to my buddies house and pulled the valve covers again thinking has to be another broken spring. Didn't find anything!!!! Cranked it with the vavle covers off watching the springs and valvetrain. Didn't see anything extraordinary. Put it back together. Noise was gone untill started driving again.
I don't have any check engine light. Vehicle does misfire when it does it but I can't monitor individual cylinders with my scanner to see where it is coming from, I tried pulling plug wires see if I can here the engine acoustics change but it doesn't go away and just arcs to the coil bracket.
I didn't see any other arcing going on or any signs or arcing
Think that covers everything I checked/did, may have forgotten something.....
Today I swapped all 8 coils and plugs wires with a buddy and same noise with the same conditions.
Lifters? bad lifter after warm up
Any suggestions, or experience with coils failing like this(if thats whats going) please chime in
#2
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Nothing ?
Probably going to be taking off the driver side head replacing the lifters and inspecting the cam and everything else.
And recommendations on what else to looks for ?
Probably going to be taking off the driver side head replacing the lifters and inspecting the cam and everything else.
And recommendations on what else to looks for ?
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well, I installed new ls7 lifters on the driver side head. Drove the case and it felt good and sounded good the first day....... drove it today thought I was paranoid and heard it so I drove it a little harder and the noise came back.
Same spot driver side front of head.......
No idea how oil passages are on this car or what else to look for.
So far what was done to try and change or eliminate noise was......
-new ls7 lifters all 8 driver side
-swapped coils
-swapped wires
-new injectors, needed for the tune anyway.
-checked for exhaust leaks and welded any found.
-checked for broken valve train components (none)
-checked pushrod length. 7.4" put me at .063" preload.
Don't know what else to do,
maybe drive it with tech 2 see what's missing or swap rockers.....
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yeah I rotated the engine and watched the lobes. Hard to see the rear but all looked good.
It made a noise like this though ?
as far as the lifters 2 where squishy a dew hours after I shut the engine down and the rest were after a few days but nothing that seemed collapsed. But I did not find any physical damage anywhere. ........
It made a noise like this though ?
as far as the lifters 2 where squishy a dew hours after I shut the engine down and the rest were after a few days but nothing that seemed collapsed. But I did not find any physical damage anywhere. ........
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help me get this pig running like a champ, 8 new lifters still tapping.
going into it today and double check pushrod length a torque. Then drive it and see if I can figure which cylinder is doing it
going into it today and double check pushrod length a torque. Then drive it and see if I can figure which cylinder is doing it
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Not sure but only time my oil pressure drops below 20ish psi when it is about to stall from the lack of a full tune.
but here are my results from last night
so since I have been in training all week last night was the first day I got to touch the car.
I pulled the valve covers looking for anything obvious and still came up dry.
pulled all the plugs and and rockers and decided to triple check pushrod at TDC.
checked every cylinder on the driver side head all at TDC. results were all the same!
intake 10.5 turns = 7.375 @ .050" preload
exhaust 10 turns =7.350 @ .050" preload
I have a 7.4 which I thought would be on but maybe due to the high lift its causing issues and possibly bottoming out the lifter.
A 7.350 with give me .025" preload intake and .050 exhaust. Just need a few peoples insight on this subject with a can with this high lift
but here are my results from last night
so since I have been in training all week last night was the first day I got to touch the car.
I pulled the valve covers looking for anything obvious and still came up dry.
pulled all the plugs and and rockers and decided to triple check pushrod at TDC.
checked every cylinder on the driver side head all at TDC. results were all the same!
intake 10.5 turns = 7.375 @ .050" preload
exhaust 10 turns =7.350 @ .050" preload
I have a 7.4 which I thought would be on but maybe due to the high lift its causing issues and possibly bottoming out the lifter.
A 7.350 with give me .025" preload intake and .050 exhaust. Just need a few peoples insight on this subject with a can with this high lift
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I am trying to figure out almost the same noise. I replaced all my lifters with ls7 lifters and nothing changed. I had 7.400 pushrods in. swapped them with 7.375 nothing changed and 7.425 and still nothing changed. let me know if you ever figured out the problem. thanks
#17
Good way to tell is check the oil HOT for air bubbles. Just shut it off and look at the dip stick, if its full of air bubbles its probably leaking air at the oring. another thing I noticed is if the let the engine idle for a few mins the lifters will quiet down. Then if you rev it to 2k and hold it there the lifter tap will come back.
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Went in and was gonig to instpect my oil pump and pick up tube and found this guy.
I have installed about 3-4 of these on different cars and this is the first time I have ever had it do this to me 8/ I always use lube and never use any force. Replaced it and you can see the better oil pressure at hot idle
Temp is a little high had some air pockets in coolant. It has settled since, have another gauge besides that one
Hot
idle @60psi
cruising @75-80psi
cold
idle @60-75psi
cruising around 80psi
Going to give it a real test drive today and see how it feels and listen carefully.
I have installed about 3-4 of these on different cars and this is the first time I have ever had it do this to me 8/ I always use lube and never use any force. Replaced it and you can see the better oil pressure at hot idle
Temp is a little high had some air pockets in coolant. It has settled since, have another gauge besides that one
Hot
idle @60psi
cruising @75-80psi
cold
idle @60-75psi
cruising around 80psi
Going to give it a real test drive today and see how it feels and listen carefully.
#19
Every LS1 I've owned had oring troubles, always the same symtoms. It will start up noisy with a bad lifter tick then as it warms up it gets quiet, then after it gets good and hot the tapping comes back. GM has a bulletin about it. The original oring they used can't take the acids that form in the engine oils, over time the oring just degrades to the point it doesn't seal anymore.
#20
My wifes 02 Z28 started ticking bad a few weeks ago. It has always had a tick since we bought it, but now it has gotten worse and was about to change the lifters. Now this post got me thinking if it is the oil pump seal leaking. Oil pressure seems the same. Then again I don't drive it much. I guess I'll have to look into this to now. Balancer is coming apart and have to change that out now. It could have loosen the seal up. Wtf!!!!!