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How long to change a steering rack?

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Old 02-19-2014, 09:20 PM
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Default How long to change a steering rack?

Pretty self explanatory. I have a 2000 Z28 and all the parts needed. How long does it take to change? Also the bolt that needs to be cut can someone tell me the size of it so I can go ahead and get a replacement? Thanks in advance!

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Old 02-19-2014, 10:04 PM
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30 minutes or less if you've done it before. An hour if you take your time, maybe a little more if you jack the motor up or cut the bolt.

2 bolts, 2 lines, the 11mm steering shaft bolt, and knock the two tierods loose, not too bad.

a side note, i only had to jack up the drivers side of the motor as the passenger side had just enough room to come out. If you're cutting i guess you don't have to worry about that.
Old 02-20-2014, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by spy2520
30 minutes or less if you've done it before. An hour if you take your time, maybe a little more if you jack the motor up or cut the bolt.

2 bolts, 2 lines, the 11mm steering shaft bolt, and knock the two tierods loose, not too bad.

a side note, i only had to jack up the drivers side of the motor as the passenger side had just enough room to come out. If you're cutting i guess you don't have to worry about that.
Same Here, i did not cut my bolts either, just make sure you put them in upside down when installing. Also inspect the joints on your steering shaft as these can wear over time and cause poor steering response.
Old 02-20-2014, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by spy2520
30 minutes or less if you've done it before. An hour if you take your time, maybe a little more if you jack the motor up or cut the bolt.

2 bolts, 2 lines, the 11mm steering shaft bolt, and knock the two tierods loose, not too bad.

a side note, i only had to jack up the drivers side of the motor as the passenger side had just enough room to come out. If you're cutting i guess you don't have to worry about that.
How much does it need to be jacked up?
Old 02-20-2014, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by jlm_photo
How much does it need to be jacked up?
Just keep going till it stops moving. The Driver side steering rack bolt hits the oil pan. If you have Poly Mounts you MIGHT need to take out that oil pan bolt thats directly above it. If you're like 80% of the fbodies i see, then your motor mounts are probably shot and you'll have plenty of room to move the motor up and down.
Old 02-20-2014, 09:41 AM
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I have umi solid aluminum mounts and it didn't have to come up too much. I also installed the bolts upside down.
Old 02-20-2014, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by jlm_photo
How much does it need to be jacked up?
Mine took about an inch, but use caution as the oil pan is made of aluminum and you can break it by jacking up the motor that way. Just use a 2x4 between the jack and the oil pan, it should be ok.
Old 02-20-2014, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by trans_am7935
Also inspect the joints on your steering shaft as these can wear over time and cause poor steering response.

Does it pay to just go ahead and replace these regardless on a 175K mile car, along with new motor mounts, while you're in there??

Also does ANYONE make a quicker ratio rack for us that will just bolt right into the stock crossmember with no mods, and if not, has ANYONE installed one of those circle track (Howe/Speedway/etc.) 'steering quickeners' with any success????
Old 02-21-2014, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
Does it pay to just go ahead and replace these regardless on a 175K mile car, along with new motor mounts, while you're in there??
I can't say that it does. Unless its leaking. It's not really in the way of anything, so i don't know if the "while you're in there" rule applies.

If you're bored and want the experience, i cannot argue with that.
Old 02-22-2014, 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
Does it pay to just go ahead and replace these regardless on a 175K mile car, along with new motor mounts, while you're in there??
If they are in good shape then no. I actually had to modify mine as over time the connection that clamps onto the steering rack itself had stretched so that when it was fully clamped down, it still had some free play in it. Both the joints on the shaft were in good shape so i didn't want to buy a new shaft. All i did is take a cut off wheel and make the slotted opening bigger and then bolted it back on, solved all my slop issues in the steering wheel.
Old 02-22-2014, 08:46 AM
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So... It took me 4 hours to change it...and it still isn't done. I don't know how anyone gets anything in there to cut the bolt. I decided to lift the motor. Because there was no play in my motor mount (car has 75k miles and they looked new) I had to take the alt off to get the mm bolt out. Then there was an oil pan bolt that the dr side rack bolt kept hitting. Had to take that out too. Got the old rack out then. Good thing I did it. If my bellows ties would have not been so tight it would have spewed ps fluid every time I drove. There wasn't even a seal left in the drivers side of the rack. I still need to find where to find the other ps hose. It was leaking pretty badly so I need to replace it before I get it all buttoned back up. Does anyone know where to get one?

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