Charging System Problems..
Charging System Problems.. I have a 2000 SS Camaro @ 95k miles, and my OEM Alternator finally gave out.
After replacing it with a Autozone Durlast remanufactured Alternator that gave out within a week I decided to go with an Advanced Auto Partsnew ToughOne Alternator. When I started up the car the voltage was 13.8volts steady at idle, so I decided to take it on a cruise around the block and soon as I start driving the voltage starts to slowly drop to 10.5-11volts. Eventually my Check Gauge light comes on confirming the alternator is no longer charging.
The car has a brand new 750cca battery, the alternator charging wire and connector appear to be in good shape (No signs of damaged wire, corrosion, etc).
Now I'm in a tough position because I purchased 2 alternators from 2 different autopart stores and they only offer Limited Lifetime Warranty; meaning if the alternator was installed they can only exchange it with another no refunds. Each alternator was $150 + tax.
What makes matters even worse is they don't even stock these alternators and they take 1-2 days to order.
With all that being said, this car is currently my daily driver and I need to fix this problem asap..
And from searching the forums this thread seems to be my only solution:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-failures.html
Hopefully no one else goes through this hassle with POS aftermarket alternators!
After replacing it with a Autozone Durlast remanufactured Alternator that gave out within a week I decided to go with an Advanced Auto Partsnew ToughOne Alternator. When I started up the car the voltage was 13.8volts steady at idle, so I decided to take it on a cruise around the block and soon as I start driving the voltage starts to slowly drop to 10.5-11volts. Eventually my Check Gauge light comes on confirming the alternator is no longer charging.
The car has a brand new 750cca battery, the alternator charging wire and connector appear to be in good shape (No signs of damaged wire, corrosion, etc).
Now I'm in a tough position because I purchased 2 alternators from 2 different autopart stores and they only offer Limited Lifetime Warranty; meaning if the alternator was installed they can only exchange it with another no refunds. Each alternator was $150 + tax.
What makes matters even worse is they don't even stock these alternators and they take 1-2 days to order.
With all that being said, this car is currently my daily driver and I need to fix this problem asap..
And from searching the forums this thread seems to be my only solution:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-failures.html
Hopefully no one else goes through this hassle with POS aftermarket alternators!
Unfortunately these results seem all too common with the auto parts store alternators.
I've encountered a similar issue, read the same thread you have linked above and now I have an OEM 2004 Tahoe alternator I picked up from a salvage shop for $35 sitting in the bedroom just waiting to be installed. Consensus on here seems to be that going this route will solve your problem.
I've encountered a similar issue, read the same thread you have linked above and now I have an OEM 2004 Tahoe alternator I picked up from a salvage shop for $35 sitting in the bedroom just waiting to be installed. Consensus on here seems to be that going this route will solve your problem.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,629
Likes: 2,550
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
After many years of poor experiences with chain auto parts store rebuilds, I will now only buy OEM/GM remans or brand new units from Powermaster. Neither of these sources has ever let me down, and I have never needed to do the truck alternator conversion (or any of the other so-called "must do" electrical/charging system mods) to get any of my 4th gens to charge properly. Just my experience.
Unfortunately these results seem all too common with the auto parts store alternators.
I've encountered a similar issue, read the same thread you have linked above and now I have an OEM 2004 Tahoe alternator I picked up from a salvage shop for $35 sitting in the bedroom just waiting to be installed. Consensus on here seems to be that going this route will solve your problem.
I've encountered a similar issue, read the same thread you have linked above and now I have an OEM 2004 Tahoe alternator I picked up from a salvage shop for $35 sitting in the bedroom just waiting to be installed. Consensus on here seems to be that going this route will solve your problem.
After many years of poor experiences with chain auto parts store rebuilds, I will now only buy OEM/GM remans or brand new units from Powermaster. Neither of these sources has ever let me down, and I have never needed to do the truck alternator conversion (or any of the other so-called "must do" electrical/charging system mods) to get any of my 4th gens to charge properly. Just my experience.
TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,628
Likes: 30
I've bought the Advance new alts and never had any trouble. It very possible the exciter wire has corrosion or damage someplace or the PCM is damaged.
You could grab another new Advance alt but trust me they don't sell junk like Autozone.
They have a tester at Advance that can easily test your new alt.
You could grab another new Advance alt but trust me they don't sell junk like Autozone.
They have a tester at Advance that can easily test your new alt.
Think about your logic here on the truck alt.... If the car is stock and came from the factory with a stock alternator and lasted all this time, is the style of the alternator really the source of your problem? A truck alternator is not needed for a stock car and doesn't do anything for but burn more gas. (a little)
I'd do some more research before investing in a higher quality unit. You could end up with the same issue. You could have a corroded cable somewhere or a bad exciter wire (even though the connector looks fine) or a slipping belt.
I suggest taking the alternator out and back to the parts store to be tested. If its really bad, then that will show up. If not, then you probably have something else going on in the engine compartment.
Your post is like many others we have here where the exciter wire is damaged on removing the original bad unit. If the exciter is not able to communicate with the alternator, it won't deliver the voltage you need.
I'd do some more research before investing in a higher quality unit. You could end up with the same issue. You could have a corroded cable somewhere or a bad exciter wire (even though the connector looks fine) or a slipping belt.
I suggest taking the alternator out and back to the parts store to be tested. If its really bad, then that will show up. If not, then you probably have something else going on in the engine compartment.
Your post is like many others we have here where the exciter wire is damaged on removing the original bad unit. If the exciter is not able to communicate with the alternator, it won't deliver the voltage you need.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,629
Likes: 2,550
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Think about your logic here on the truck alt.... If the car is stock and came from the factory with a stock alternator and lasted all this time, is the style of the alternator really the source of your problem? A truck alternator is not needed for a stock car and doesn't do anything for but burn more gas. (a little)
I'd do some more research before investing in a higher quality unit. You could end up with the same issue. You could have a corroded cable somewhere or a bad exciter wire (even though the connector looks fine) or a slipping belt.
I suggest taking the alternator out and back to the parts store to be tested. If its really bad, then that will show up. If not, then you probably have something else going on in the engine compartment.
Your post is like many others we have here where the exciter wire is damaged on removing the original bad unit. If the exciter is not able to communicate with the alternator, it won't deliver the voltage you need.
I'd do some more research before investing in a higher quality unit. You could end up with the same issue. You could have a corroded cable somewhere or a bad exciter wire (even though the connector looks fine) or a slipping belt.
I suggest taking the alternator out and back to the parts store to be tested. If its really bad, then that will show up. If not, then you probably have something else going on in the engine compartment.
Your post is like many others we have here where the exciter wire is damaged on removing the original bad unit. If the exciter is not able to communicate with the alternator, it won't deliver the voltage you need.
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
After many years of poor experiences with chain auto parts store rebuilds, I will now only buy OEM/GM remans or brand new units from Powermaster. Neither of these sources has ever let me down, and I have never needed to do the truck alternator conversion (or any of the other so-called "must do" electrical/charging system mods) to get any of my 4th gens to charge properly. Just my experience.
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Verdad Gallardo Think about your logic here on the truck alt.... If the car is stock and came from the factory with a stock alternator and lasted all this time, is the style of the alternator really the source of your problem? A truck alternator is not needed for a stock car and doesn't do anything for but burn more gas. (a little)
I'd do some more research before investing in a higher quality unit. You could end up with the same issue. You could have a corroded cable somewhere or a bad exciter wire (even though the connector looks fine) or a slipping belt.
I suggest taking the alternator out and back to the parts store to be tested. If its really bad, then that will show up. If not, then you probably have something else going on in the engine compartment.
Your post is like many others we have here where the exciter wire is damaged on removing the original bad unit. If the exciter is not able to communicate with the alternator, it won't deliver the voltage you need.
I'd do some more research before investing in a higher quality unit. You could end up with the same issue. You could have a corroded cable somewhere or a bad exciter wire (even though the connector looks fine) or a slipping belt.
I suggest taking the alternator out and back to the parts store to be tested. If its really bad, then that will show up. If not, then you probably have something else going on in the engine compartment.
Your post is like many others we have here where the exciter wire is damaged on removing the original bad unit. If the exciter is not able to communicate with the alternator, it won't deliver the voltage you need.
I appreciate everyone's feedback!
Just an update, I took both of the alternators to 3 different auto part stores (autozone,pepboys & advance). Both failed the Regulator Test & Diode Trio Test. So I exchange one for another remanufactured duralast alternator.
Installed it and I'm reading 14.2volts unloaded @ idle 13.1v fully loaded @ idle..
Took it for a 3mile cruise with a few WOT pulls and it seems to be charging fine. Hopefully this one will last alot longer and I can have a Powermaster 150A alternator waiting to be installed!
Installed it and I'm reading 14.2volts unloaded @ idle 13.1v fully loaded @ idle..
Took it for a 3mile cruise with a few WOT pulls and it seems to be charging fine. Hopefully this one will last alot longer and I can have a Powermaster 150A alternator waiting to be installed!
Do you have any other general issues with luck?
Ever been struck by lightening? I'm glad you got this straightened out!
, I know right. Thanks for all the advice though!