New to the LS world, i have a 2001 Trans Am WS6, basically all stock besides SLP cat back 109, xxx miles, oil pressure gauge was bouncing around so i had someone replace the sending unit (big hand problems) after that it pretty much fixed it but now on to my next problem, on a cold start has the typical piston slap that goes away and what sounds like some lifter noice that also goes away but from time to time after about 20 minutes of driving there's what sounds like a ticking/tapping sound that usually goes away with driving or i can cut the car off and start it back and its gone, is it a lifter or some thing else all help is appreciated thank you, also if its a lifter its about time for a oil change what would y'all recommend?

 

the ticking noise that comes and goes after it's warm - especially if it goes away with RPM could be the oil pump-ring showing its age. Someone posted a stop-gap solution to that a while back to put a few ounces of transX in the oil. I tried it in mine, and it helped, but didn't fix it completely due to aftermarket cam being noisy.

As far as which oil - let the debate ensue... I typically stick with Mobil1 5w30

 

Curtis,

From your description, it seems like this ticking sound only appears after the engine gets hot from being driven and *never* on a cold start, correct? If so, I suggest you check each of your spark plug and wires to make sure that every one is secured tightly. A loose spark plug/wire could make a tapping sound from having tolerances widened per heat expansion of the engine. I experienced this firsthand.

Other observations to be attentive to are whether the volume (not frequency) of the ticking remains consistent regardless of throttle amount, as this could rule out whether it's something internal, and whether the ticking is constant or if it skips beats sporatically, as this could rule out a rod knock and piston slap.

 

It started tapping again yesterday then after some driving it went away

 

Not sure how loud your tapping is, but I've owned 3 LS1 motors, 1 LS6, and an LS7. They are just noisy engines. They making tapping noises from the factory. Unfortunately some make more noise than others. My current LS1 will make tapping noises on and off when warm. No codes and no issues found.

I'd find someone familiar with the LS motor and have them listen. Over the years you learn what noise is normal and what is ... bad.

 

Without a doubt at that age and mileage the oil pickup tube o ring is worn. Either replace it or add a seal sweller like TranX <3 ozs should fix it up fine.

 

I wish the o- ring I replaced fixed my tapping but it didn't. It still taps on every start then calms down with the idle. And I mean every start not just cold starts.But occasionally taps slightly when fully warm as well, between idle 800 rpm and 1400 rpm. What I'm gonna do next is check the pushrods and while I'm there spray carb cleaner in them to pool up some to hopefully clean any dirty lifters I have.

 

Before you do that try 8 ozs or so of Lucas SYNTHETIC oil stabilizer. Made mine quiet as a mouse.

 

for how long? I've had my car for 14 years and it has tapped from day one. I let it warm up until seat belt light goes off and like clock work the tapping goes quiet. Before every oil change (yearly-since I barely drive it) I run a bottle of seafoam for a couple days in the crankcase prior to changing it. It seems to help keep the motor clean...I think...but nothing has made it any quieter IMO.

 

Well let enlighten you all about the noises you are all hearing and what they are.

I'll try to be as clear as possible, lets start with COLD start engine is quiet for 30 seconds then starts a knocking-rocking type noise like a diesel engine. Goes away after 5-10mins<this is classic piston noise and is completely normal.

Next COLD start engine starts tapping and ticking immediately and may run slightly rough. Continues to tick and tap but after driving a few miles it gets quiet.<this classic lifter oil bleed down and for the most part normal but could be caused by a poorly designed oil filter that the drain back valve doesn't seal. The problem here is the lifters themselves bleed down too easily. GM did this for 2 reasons, 1 faster bleeding lifters make more power AND its cheap to just slap lifters together without parts matching to internals<that's the biggest reason.
Most stock LS1 engines suffer from this, I've owned 5 and they all had this trouble.

Next is the PISSER, the dreaded O RING on the oil pickup tube. It deteriorates over time and slowly start to let AIR get into the oil stream. With this little gem changing and sealing and not sealing you get all kinds of noise until it fails enough to constantly let air in the oil stream. Symptoms of a worn-leaking o ring are cold ticking and tapping that may go away as its warming up but then comes back. Also you may find tiny air bubbles on the dip stick when you shut the engine off and check it. BUT air bubbles with cold oil are normal, air bubbles with warm oil are NOT.

I'll tell you what some of did and what the cause was.

1 99TA cold start tap and ticking, hot was reasonably quiet (LS1 all have some noise to them) This was caused by the GM stock lifters that bleed off too quick because of poor parts matching in manufacturing.

2 02 Formula, same as above except it started tapping hot after 60k miles. I added 3 ozs of TransX into the engine oil and it stopped the hot tapping till 119k when it was totaled.


3 01 WS6 low mileage car and hardly driven over 10 years. Ticked and tapped and knocked cold then would get reasonably quiet as it warmed up BUT after it got hot the engine was ticky tappy noisy. More noise than a stock LS1 should have. I added 3 ozs of TransX to the engine oil and it quieted the hot engine noise BUT the cold ticking and tapping was still there. I added 8 ozs of LUCAS SYNTHETIC OIL STABILIZER and now the cold start is quiet too.

I personally wouldn't use the older heavy as snot Lucas Oil Stabilizer.


Also putting Seafoam in your crankcase is playing Russian Roulette, I think you're crazy.

GOOD LUCK GRASSHOPPERS! its a jungle of BS out there!

 

That sounds like loose built lifters but i'll tell you a good test for the o ring. Find a long hill driving @ 55 mph. If you drive up the hill and get to the top and it starts tapping almost certain the o ring is letting air into the oil stream. Reason for this as you drive up the hill the oil thins out from heat from the load on the engine, this allows more air to leak past the o ring. My experience it will be tapping at the top of the hill and if you pull over and let idle for a few mins the tapping will quiet down.

Also just because you replaced it doesn't mean its not leaking air. Its a very tricky repair, you should have the oil pump loose from the block then attach the o ring and pickup tube THEN reattach the pump. If you replaced the o ring without loosening the pump its probably damaged in some way.

Most people don't understand how the oil gets into the oil gallery. The pump turns causing a LOW PRESSURE area at the oil pickup. ATMOSPHEREIC pressure PUSHES the oil into the pump where the pump pressurizes and pumps the oil through the engine. SO if the o ring has ANY defects ATMOSPHEREIC being equal can also push AIR through the defect in the o ring. So you then have a mixture of oil from the pickup tube and air coming past the o ring entering the oil pump. This mixture can be a little tiny bit of air if the defect is small OR ALOT of air if the o Ring is in bad shape. Also temperature and oil will effect all of this.

Personally GM lost its mind uses with POS O ring design BUT it has made them BILLIONS in repairs.......................

You can't begin to imagine how many engines have failed because of this o Ring design. Go rev a high HP engine to the moon with air in the oil.....bad things happen quickly.