temperature
11-07-2015, 02:16 AM
#1
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temperature i mistakenly took my air dam off my trans am and had left it off. well while i was driving my temp guage was sitting between the 210 mark and the 3/4 one, and finally reached the 3/4 when i put the heat on and got it to go lower. i am very worried a damaged somthing as i know this gauge is not accurate being i have a 2001. there was no steam and it did not appear the coolant boiled over. i put the air dam back on checked to see if it looked like coolant mixed with oil which it appers it has not. the car is not smoking and drives just fine. i am running a e67 pcm so if the coolant temps exceded 250 would the car have gone in limp mode or shut off? also how hot does the car have to get befor the temp gauge moves to the 3/4 and if it got to 260 would the temp gauge have gone in the red. i am losing sleep over this and really am worried i damged somthing. i did drive the car today and everything seemed fine but im worried theres somthing im not seeing. is there anything the car would have done when the pcm seen very high temps and like i said before how hot does the coolant have to get before it will move past the 210. any inputs help. im hoping everythings fine as it seems.
11-07-2015, 01:17 PM
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At a certain temp, it will start dumping fuel to cool itself. Have you checked too see if there is a bunch of air in the system?
11-07-2015, 02:30 PM
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Was going to until I realized I forgot to put back on the air dam lol put it back on and everything seems perfect. I'm mostly worried that I damaged something. But I am running a e67 pcm so I feel if it really got to hot it would have went into limp mode which I dident. It's probably fine but I just keep worrying
11-07-2015, 04:13 PM
#6
It averages the temp reading just like your fuel gauge works. Your fuel gauge doesn't jump around because its buffered to only show a average of the fuel level. Your temp gauge does the same thing.
11-07-2015, 04:52 PM
#7
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That Makes sense. I still had a functional cooling system I just had no air other than from the slp intake going to the radiator so I can see why it would run around 230-240 consistent so the gauge moved because of this. I'm just worried about damage but like I said when I drive it everything is perfect so I'm prob just worrying to much. It never went past the 3/4 Mark.
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11-07-2015, 05:03 PM
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That Makes sense. I still had a functional cooling system I just had no air other than from the slp intake going to the radiator so I can see why it would run around 230-240 consistent so the gauge moved because of this. I'm just worried about damage but like I said when I drive it everything is perfect so I'm prob just worrying to much. It never went past the 3/4 Mark.
11-09-2015, 11:44 PM
#10
if the car did not ping or detonate from being hot,
if the computer did not go into limp mode,
if you never got a check engine light that stayed on after restart, especially if it never came on,
no steam came out from under the hood like in the movies,
you never smelled anything (coolant)
you are worrying about nothing.
I would argue you never really got out of normal operating range!
a 50/50 mix of dexcool/water with a radiator cap holding at 16psi or whatever won't boil till 260-280°F. as long as the coolant is not boiling like crazy... and you would hear it! it's still transferring heat and an all aluminum motor will shed heat pretty good too,
picture top of pistons run around 700°F {i think}
spark plugs operate at 500-700°C which is around 1000°F
exhaust temperature out the exhaust valve into exhaust manifold is 1000°F I believe... hotter if there's heavy load on motor.
your coolant temp rising... about 50°F from ~210° to 260°F, is not hurting anything. if you could manage coolant temp at 300°F without it boiling you probably wouldn't hurt anything in the motor internally.
oh, and stock fan settings don't turn on until 226°F for low speed and 234°F for high speed. you're motor is always getting to that temp if you are idling not moving.
if the computer did not go into limp mode,
if you never got a check engine light that stayed on after restart, especially if it never came on,
no steam came out from under the hood like in the movies,
you never smelled anything (coolant)
you are worrying about nothing.
I would argue you never really got out of normal operating range!
a 50/50 mix of dexcool/water with a radiator cap holding at 16psi or whatever won't boil till 260-280°F. as long as the coolant is not boiling like crazy... and you would hear it! it's still transferring heat and an all aluminum motor will shed heat pretty good too,
picture top of pistons run around 700°F {i think}
spark plugs operate at 500-700°C which is around 1000°F
exhaust temperature out the exhaust valve into exhaust manifold is 1000°F I believe... hotter if there's heavy load on motor.
your coolant temp rising... about 50°F from ~210° to 260°F, is not hurting anything. if you could manage coolant temp at 300°F without it boiling you probably wouldn't hurt anything in the motor internally.
oh, and stock fan settings don't turn on until 226°F for low speed and 234°F for high speed. you're motor is always getting to that temp if you are idling not moving.
11-10-2015, 02:27 AM
#11
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if the car did not ping or detonate from being hot,
if the computer did not go into limp mode,
if you never got a check engine light that stayed on after restart, especially if it never came on,
no steam came out from under the hood like in the movies,
you never smelled anything (coolant)
you are worrying about nothing.
I would argue you never really got out of normal operating range!
a 50/50 mix of dexcool/water with a radiator cap holding at 16psi or whatever won't boil till 260-280°F. as long as the coolant is not boiling like crazy... and you would hear it! it's still transferring heat and an all aluminum motor will shed heat pretty good too,
picture top of pistons run around 700°F {i think}
spark plugs operate at 500-700°C which is around 1000°F
exhaust temperature out the exhaust valve into exhaust manifold is 1000°F I believe... hotter if there's heavy load on motor.
your coolant temp rising... about 50°F from ~210° to 260°F, is not hurting anything. if you could manage coolant temp at 300°F without it boiling you probably wouldn't hurt anything in the motor internally.
oh, and stock fan settings don't turn on until 226°F for low speed and 234°F for high speed. you're motor is always getting to that temp if you are idling not moving.
if the computer did not go into limp mode,
if you never got a check engine light that stayed on after restart, especially if it never came on,
no steam came out from under the hood like in the movies,
you never smelled anything (coolant)
you are worrying about nothing.
I would argue you never really got out of normal operating range!
a 50/50 mix of dexcool/water with a radiator cap holding at 16psi or whatever won't boil till 260-280°F. as long as the coolant is not boiling like crazy... and you would hear it! it's still transferring heat and an all aluminum motor will shed heat pretty good too,
picture top of pistons run around 700°F {i think}
spark plugs operate at 500-700°C which is around 1000°F
exhaust temperature out the exhaust valve into exhaust manifold is 1000°F I believe... hotter if there's heavy load on motor.
your coolant temp rising... about 50°F from ~210° to 260°F, is not hurting anything. if you could manage coolant temp at 300°F without it boiling you probably wouldn't hurt anything in the motor internally.
oh, and stock fan settings don't turn on until 226°F for low speed and 234°F for high speed. you're motor is always getting to that temp if you are idling not moving.
11-10-2015, 09:23 AM
#12
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well if i lived in a warm place like FL, i'd think about an upgraded radiator such as be cool or ls1 tech guru jimmy blue has a lower cost LT1 radiator idea you could pm him. cheers.
11-11-2015, 12:04 AM
#13
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11-11-2015, 12:10 AM
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11-11-2015, 04:06 PM
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it might even add a little front downforce as well.
11-12-2015, 11:06 PM
#18
It's fine even 3/4 of the way is absolutely nothing to worry about. Even if it got hot like 260 hot and went into limp mode the pcm protects the engine. E67 has different strategies than 411 pcm but the end result is still the same. GM designs these motors to be damm near indestructible you really got pull a boneheaded move to kill them
11-12-2015, 11:39 PM
#19
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It's fine even 3/4 of the way is absolutely nothing to worry about. Even if it got hot like 260 hot and went into limp mode the pcm protects the engine. E67 has different strategies than 411 pcm but the end result is still the same. GM designs these motors to be damm near indestructible you really got pull a boneheaded move to kill them
11-22-2015, 10:59 PM
#20
limp mode is when the engine computer senses an abnormal condition based on various sensors.
there's other conditions besides overheat, but for simple explanation the "limp mode" for overheat is generally preventing engine from going over a certain rpm and over a certain load.
load is calculated by the engine computer based on engine intake manifold vacuum, throttle position, engine rpm, and MAF sensor reading which tells how much air is entering engine. by forcing the engine to stay under a certain load value which means reduced power, it generates less heat.. which under an overheat condition is the main goal.
the computer depending on the year and make/model may shut off fuel injectors and/or spark from the ignition coil to every other cylinder every other crankshaft revolution to further reduce heat created.
I'm fairly positive limp mode has never, on any car, introduced more fuel.
because that would cause a host of other problems like cylinder wall wash and piston ring scuff, fuel in the oil, increased emissions out the exhaust, and reducing the life of catalytic converter provided enough fuel doesn't collect in the cat to ignite and overheat & destroy it. generally limp mode always equals reduced power.