Does anyone know what if anything I can use to put in ps to flush/clean out the system? My ps is leaking into coolant. Looks like I will be getting rid of stock cooler. Been debating on whether or not bypass ps cooler all together or add a cooler. I think I will add a cooler being here in Vegas. I do not want to buy extra ps fluid to use as a flush (crack a line and have it all drain out). I know I have gunk in bottom of ps pump. Rather gross to be honest.
Any thoughts would be great! Thanks for your time.
Sabo

 

I eliminated my cooler from the radiator and mounted a dope style one per the sticky. I just let it all drain out and filled with new. Started the engine and turned the wheel with the cap off and topped it off.
I suppose you could do this procedure twice and that would clean it out pretty well.

 

That will not get the gross stuff out of the bottom of pump/tank. have a idea will try and just try to suck it out with shop vac? Then try flushing out a few times?

 

I'm not sure I would use a shop vac, you can get a fluid transfer pump for like 10 bucks, shove the hose in and pump the fluid out.

Pump it out, fill it up, turn the wheel side to side, suck it out and continue.

 

I use to own all the machinery to do this. I can tell you from experience, even with a professional evac machine, you will never get all that crap out. You can simply use a turkey baster if you're trying to get some new fluid in.

 

I use a turkey baster to clean out the tank. Problem is there is think "gunk" in the bottom of the tank. Really would like to get that out. I will see what anyone else comes up with or what else I can think of till I am rdy to do this in a few days? Thanks for all the input guys.

 

Have you seen this thread? There is good healthy debate as to these points. https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...g-success.html


This statement sounds penny-wise and pound foolish. For $10 of fluid, you can do this yourself or go to someone who will charge you for $150 for a machine "service." I'm not sure what the hang-up on using extra fluid is - its recyclable.


For no other reason, doing a P/S flush will help prevent boil-overs. In the debate (over the years) about coolers, we've always seen the heating/boil-over problems go away with a simple fluid flush.

You should be able to drain the tank fully by unhooking the return line. You can then clean it out with some brushes, etc. If you cap that return line and then have a helper monitor the fluid level and hold the return line in to a receptacle, you can blast fluid through the system, turning the wheels as you do it. (This takes some coordination as the fluid move through fast. You may also need a "safe word" so you can cut the engine quickly if your helper falls behind in keeping the tank topped off with fresh fluid.)

 

Turkey baster does nothing for a real dirty system.

Here's how you clean the entire system...spotless. Not easy, but it works.

Go buy 3-4 cans/bottles of GUNK engine (crankcase) cleaner. Also buy 7-8 bottles of PS fluid. Engine cleaner is a pretty harsh chemical like SeaFoam liquid. And SeaFoam liquid will also work. Gasoline also works just fine.

Fill the reservoir about 2-3 inches above where the sludge is sitting. Then with a paint mixer or whatever.....mix it around for a few minutes. Let it sit for awhile, one hour. Then disconnect the rubber hose from the factory PS fluid cooler pipe ((the piece you are removing that is leaking)), the other end of the rubber hose that is attached to the bottom port of the reservoir. YOu will use that end as your drain hose to drain the reservoir. Into a pan let the reservoir drain. Look inside and see if its clean. Repeat the first step....fill again with the cleaner chemical and mix it around and let it sit....it will get spotless at some point, just might take some multiple attempts. Once its clean, cut the other rubber hose off the factory PS fluid cooler pipe. Replace that pipe with a full length rubber radiator hose. Then buy a brass male-male fitting to connect both ends of those rubber hoses that you cut off the PS cooler pipe. Now you have a looped, closed PS fluid system.

Fill the reservoir full with a 50/50 mix of PS fluid and the engine cleaner chemical. Start it up and idle around the street turning the steering wheel full left and right. Or easier....put the front tires in the air on jackstands and turn the wheel full left/right a bunch of times. This will get the engine cleaner chemical all through the system.

Then...disconnect the two rubber ends from the brass fitting. Let the reservoir drain through that hose.....let whatever fluid will drain out from the other hose come out also. Then use a vise grip to pinch off the end of the hose that is connected to the reservoir port, that will keep the fluid from draining out of the reservoir after you top it off again. The other rubber hose end should hang down into a pan but you'll need someone to hold it pointed into the pan. That end is the one where the fluid will spray out during the powered flush.

Now, fill the reservoir up again with engine cleaner and PS fluid...50/50. Take the remaining bottles of PS fluid and open them up and put them on a towel up front so you can get to them quickly to keep topping off the reservoir as the engine is running. Start the engine and keep pouring in PS fluid as its being pumped out into the pan. A third person is good for this to stay inside the car to turn the wheel left/right constantly. AS the level drops keep pouring in PS fluid.

This is how its done. Now, I'm sure some sludge is in the rack and very hard to get out....only thing you could do is let the first fill of the 50/50 mix sit in there overnight to break it down as much as possible before doing the empty/fill flush with the engine running.

When its as clean as you want it....I would then fill it up with only PS fluid....start the engine and let that run through and flush completely out into a pan.....this will get most if not all of the cleaner chemical out. Then fill finally with just new PS fluid.

Sounds like a lot buy it only takes about 30 minutes.

THen when all done.....those two rubber hoses that are hanging.....get an aftermarket cooler....like mine in post #5 in this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...g-success.html

hook the two ends on and you're all set with a real cooler that actually works.

.

 

LS6427 Thank you for your post. I was trying to keep up in my head as I was reading this. Will look at it again tomorrow with fresh eyes. Thank you once again.

 

Yea....it sounds confusing.

Basically.....the two rubber lines that are connected to that factory PS fluid cooler......cut them both close to the cooler with a razor. Drop them down towards a pan hanging straight down. Clamp the line that runs to the bottom of the reservoir....the other one thats coming from the rack, just let it hand in the pan, this one will always stay open and its the exit when flushing with the engine running.
The brass male-male will join those two ends together when flushing the system out with the engine running.

When cleaning the reservoir several times....unclamp the other line to drain the reservoir each time.

When done...the new cooler simply gets zip-tied behind the air dam, then those two lines get connected to each port. Then I recommend the razor-knife cut out strip right in front of the cooler like you see in my pictures in that thread. All done.

That sounds less confusing.

.

 

LMAO! Yeah. I finally figured it out after I went to bed. I got ya. Thank you for your help!