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Driver side window all of a sudden had about quarter inch gap in front side of window when I tried to roll it up. So I opened the door and it rolled up the rest of the way which was followed by a plastic cracking kind of noise. Now with my window all the way up and the door open my glass is loose and floppy. I'm at work posting this question just trying to figure out what might be broke.. I've never had leakage problems but I've read something about some kind of stoppers to adjust the windows etc, does this sound like something like them being broke or the regulator needing replaced?
All I know is out of nowhere the window wouldn't roll up all the way so I opened the door and it rolled all the way up and made a plastic breaking noise and now window has a lot of loose movement in it side to side so I figure somethings broke. I'll have to tear it apart to know for sure I guess
I don't think that is the issue that the OP is having because it goes up all the way with the door open. I am having a similar issue with mine and I'm pretty sure one of the guides is loose.
OP, if you try to roll the window up with the door closed and push on the window, does that help it any?
If I roll the window down and back up the window tries to come inside of the door. I can push outward on the window as it goes up and it will go up. I also can slide the window back towards the rear of the car far enough it can slip out of the little rubber track/seal on the A-pillar. Not sure what this piece is called off the top of my head.. it's like the car is out of track, would this be caused by the rear window stabilizer being broken? The window seems to move freely up down so would that eliminate the regulator?
Okay so update pulled the door panel off and the bottom of the back part of the window is a metal plate that attaches window to regulator, the metal piece has been ripped out.
You need to get a new....used.,..door, and have it installed. Check Upullit junk yards. Less than $90. The entire door and window assembly. Then when your door is replaced painted and done, get a driver and passenger door,and store them under your bed.
The roller ripped off the window channel, happened to me too. Replace the window channel. You'll have to source one, because I'm pretty sure they're discontinued. It's not fun either, but doable.
The rubber block and pivot joint are all intact but the bracket that's attached to the window itself the hole is ripped out. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow morning.
The rubber block and pivot joint are all intact but the bracket that's attached to the window itself the hole is ripped out. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow morning.
I read the fix option, but I don't even have the bottom half of my hole. Not sure where to find part at..
Discontinued part, can I just weld the pivot joint to the window channel?
The bottom of the plate is probably floating around in the bottom of your door. (There are some drain holes, but they should be too small for that piece to escape.) If you take the vertical track out and/or the door speaker, you can get in there for a better look.
A welded repair (with, or without additional steel plate) should work and it has worked for others. The thing to worry about is heat stress on the glass and being able to check the weld on the back of the plate. If you weld the plate in-place, you could heat-stress the window and crack it.
^ Others have pulled this off successfully, but the text book answer would be to remove the glass, take the channel off, and then weld it on a bench.
That being said... you could probably take the car to a body shop and ask them to take the glass out and they would probably weld it in-pace and not tell you!
The bottom of the plate is probably floating around in the bottom of your door. (There are some drain holes, but they should be too small for that piece to escape.) If you take the vertical track out and/or the door speaker, you can get in there for a better look.
A welded repair (with, or without additional steel plate) should work and it has worked for others. The thing to worry about is heat stress on the glass and being able to check the weld on the back of the plate. If you weld the plate in-place, you could heat-stress the window and crack it.
So I can simply weld the window plate back to the stud from the regulator track?..I think I'll try that.. if only I had some more quiksteel puddy
Not quite. Take the track out of the door, first. Then weld the plate/stud back. Then reinstall the track over the roller and follow the shbox instructions to readjust the tracks and glass.
That track is designed to come out. Just unbolt it from the door, remove the stop inside the track, turn it 90 degrees, and then you can take it in/out of the door and put it over the roller.
Not quite. Take the track out of the door, first. Then weld the plate/stud back. Then reinstall the track over the roller and follow the shbox instructions to readjust the tracks and glass.
That track is designed to come out. Just unbolt it from the door, remove the stop inside the track, turn it 90 degrees, and then you can take it in/out of the door and put it over the roller.
Heck I done migged it back..It's a sloppy bead I admit but I was afraid if I got a good puddle going I'd stress crack the window. Plus it's tight to get to in the door Someone had previously had this issue I assume, everything was bolts and not rivets, not sure if my roller stud was threaded, but it had a screw with washers in it. I removed the washers, used 2 bigger ones to kind of sandwich the plate and tacked the washer closest to regulator track to my window channel, I then bridged the bottom over. I couldn't get to the back side to weld but I hit it with my slag hammer and it seems pretty stout. I repacked the tracks with some grease, works smooth and just like before.
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floppy window 
