first time changing spark plugs/wires
05-11-2017, 05:09 PM
#1
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first time changing spark plugs/wires as the work on my car continues, I wanted to replace the valve cover seals and clean/paint the valve covers, and to do that you have to remove the coil packs, which I'm working on right now, also heard it makes it easier to change the plugs/wires if the coil packs are removed, and I figure if I do it myself, hey FREE LABOR. And being as this is my first time changing plugs/wires, just want to make sure I do it right, it is my understanding that when you remove the wires from the coils and the plugs, you grab them by the boot and give a tug on them at the same time give a twisting motion to release them, is that correct? Already have a spark plug socket, getting wires and plugs soon, my main question is my car has not moved an inch in 6 months(yes, I know, its killing me) would that be an issue as far as removing the plugs?
05-12-2017, 01:38 PM
#3
as the work on my car continues, I wanted to replace the valve cover seals and clean/paint the valve covers, and to do that you have to remove the coil packs, which I'm working on right now, also heard it makes it easier to change the plugs/wires if the coil packs are removed, and I figure if I do it myself, hey FREE LABOR. And being as this is my first time changing plugs/wires, just want to make sure I do it right, it is my understanding that when you remove the wires from the coils and the plugs, you grab them by the boot and give a tug on them at the same time give a twisting motion to release them, is that correct? Already have a spark plug socket, getting wires and plugs soon, my main question is my car has not moved an inch in 6 months(yes, I know, its killing me) would that be an issue as far as removing the plugs?
Everyone thinks these cars are so hard to do a spark plug change on because the last guy to put them in tightened them down like a gorilla. No need to tighten spark plugs like that.
Next time you do it, they will all come out very easy and you will do the entire job in 40 minutes.
.
05-12-2017, 01:41 PM
#4
Oh...and not sure if you purchased new wires yet. But the AC Delco plug wires are about the best you can get, especially for a stock or just mildly modded engine.
Also, PepBoys and Advance Auto wires......they are $36.00 and just as good.
I've had a 436ci LS6 stroker, a 427ci LS2 stroker and this new fully forged 390ci.
Plug wires are a complete waste of money to buy Taylors and Granitellis and others. They will do absolutely nothing for you in performance. Better and expensive wires are for the guys 600 RWHP and above.....
My PepBoys wires are about 8 years old. They were on my last 427ci, and now they are on my new 390ci. They are perfect...and very very tough wires.
.
Also, PepBoys and Advance Auto wires......they are $36.00 and just as good.
I've had a 436ci LS6 stroker, a 427ci LS2 stroker and this new fully forged 390ci.
Plug wires are a complete waste of money to buy Taylors and Granitellis and others. They will do absolutely nothing for you in performance. Better and expensive wires are for the guys 600 RWHP and above.....
My PepBoys wires are about 8 years old. They were on my last 427ci, and now they are on my new 390ci. They are perfect...and very very tough wires.
.
05-12-2017, 02:25 PM
#5
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Do yourself a favor. Since you are pulling your coil packs, knock out the plugs and wires with them removed. You'll be glad you did, especially on #8. Of the 4 bolts that hold the coil pack rail to the valve cover on the right side, I left the inner most bolt off when I put it back on. That way, when I do plugs, it's so much easier to get #8. With 314,000 miles on my engine, I've changed them 3 times. Just some food for thought... and how I do it.
05-12-2017, 04:53 PM
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thanks for the tips LS6427, Ive seen guys take a small length rubber hose, wrap it around the spark plug to aid in getting the threads started too, probably get ACDelco wires, not sure about plugs yet, recommendations for lightly modified engines? and TA Freak, will definitely not be reinstalling that rearmost bolt on the passenger side, actually working on that one right now, I have a stubby gear wrench to get at it.
05-12-2017, 07:06 PM
#7
NGK TR55 gapped to .050
or
NGK 55 gapped to .050
(check the gap on each plug, don't trust that they are .050)
I have tried every gap from .035 to .060.....nothing works as good as .050 for a N/A engine. My stock engine, my 436ci stroker, my 427ci stroker and my current 390ci..... .050 is the best)
All 8 plugs line up very easily with the threads simply by putting the plug in the socket (no ratchet)....hold the plug in place with the tip of of your finger as you reach down to screw it in to each port with the socket. It'll go in nice and easy......make it as tight as you can with your fingers....as you tighten it wiggle the socket side-to-side....it'll keep creeping on tighter and tighter.
Then attach the ratchet and just give it a snug.....don't kill it.
Never used anything but the socket......you have a better feel for whats going on if you are spinning that socket with your fingers.
.
or
NGK 55 gapped to .050
(check the gap on each plug, don't trust that they are .050)
I have tried every gap from .035 to .060.....nothing works as good as .050 for a N/A engine. My stock engine, my 436ci stroker, my 427ci stroker and my current 390ci..... .050 is the best)
All 8 plugs line up very easily with the threads simply by putting the plug in the socket (no ratchet)....hold the plug in place with the tip of of your finger as you reach down to screw it in to each port with the socket. It'll go in nice and easy......make it as tight as you can with your fingers....as you tighten it wiggle the socket side-to-side....it'll keep creeping on tighter and tighter.
Then attach the ratchet and just give it a snug.....don't kill it.
Never used anything but the socket......you have a better feel for whats going on if you are spinning that socket with your fingers.
.
Last edited by LS6427; 05-13-2017 at 05:58 AM.
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05-14-2017, 08:47 AM
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05-14-2017, 05:25 PM
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I have had MSD (no heat shields) on my plugs for a couple to several years now and no issues. Changing plugs was a lot easier than what it is made out to be. Definitely have a ratchet with a swivel head. I went underneath to get to plug #8 and #6. I too used just my hand to get the plugs started and then just used the socket and my hand to tighten it until I was ready to apply the final torque which is not a lot. Don't gorilla or German torque it. This job is really cake.
05-14-2017, 06:29 PM
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Just got my last bolt on the passenger side coil bracket, if it helps, I know I had the intake off, but with a stubby 10mm gearwrench I just bought, laid on top of the engine and I had that thing off in not even 2 minutes.
05-16-2017, 07:01 PM
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having some issues removing the spark plug wires from the spark plugs, no matter what I try, no matter what spark plug removal tool I use, I twist side to side and pull at the same time, no go. it just slides off and I crack my hand, any advice?
05-17-2017, 09:03 AM
#15
I remember having to use a pair of channel lock pliers to aid in removal, I used one hand to squeeze (moderately) on the metal boot then the other hand to pull up on the teeth of the pliers using my knuckles as a lever (of course I had padded gloves on).
05-17-2017, 09:29 AM
#16
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NGK TR55 gapped to .050
or
NGK 55 gapped to .050
(check the gap on each plug, don't trust that they are .050)
I have tried every gap from .035 to .060.....nothing works as good as .050 for a N/A engine. My stock engine, my 436ci stroker, my 427ci stroker and my current 390ci..... .050 is the best)
All 8 plugs line up very easily with the threads simply by putting the plug in the socket (no ratchet)....hold the plug in place with the tip of of your finger as you reach down to screw it in to each port with the socket. It'll go in nice and easy......make it as tight as you can with your fingers....as you tighten it wiggle the socket side-to-side....it'll keep creeping on tighter and tighter.
Then attach the ratchet and just give it a snug.....don't kill it.
Never used anything but the socket......you have a better feel for whats going on if you are spinning that socket with your fingers.
.
or
NGK 55 gapped to .050
(check the gap on each plug, don't trust that they are .050)
I have tried every gap from .035 to .060.....nothing works as good as .050 for a N/A engine. My stock engine, my 436ci stroker, my 427ci stroker and my current 390ci..... .050 is the best)
All 8 plugs line up very easily with the threads simply by putting the plug in the socket (no ratchet)....hold the plug in place with the tip of of your finger as you reach down to screw it in to each port with the socket. It'll go in nice and easy......make it as tight as you can with your fingers....as you tighten it wiggle the socket side-to-side....it'll keep creeping on tighter and tighter.
Then attach the ratchet and just give it a snug.....don't kill it.
Never used anything but the socket......you have a better feel for whats going on if you are spinning that socket with your fingers.
.
05-17-2017, 06:00 PM
#18
427ci and 436ci stroker were at 500 RWHP
My current 390ci is at 400 RWHP.
I put TR6 plugs in once and it ran like hell......I couldn't drive it. Pulled them out and put TR55s back in.
Unless you're making over 650-700 RWHP N/A, .050 gap with TR55 is best, in my opinion.
Nitrous/Boost......I have no idea whats best.
.
05-17-2017, 07:57 PM
#19
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wow, removed the valve covers, could not believe the room I have, had such an issue getting the first 3 on the drivers side off, tool kept slipping off (valve covers were still on) passenger side(after I took off the covers) first 3 didn't even take 2 minutes to get the wires out of there, working on both rear plugs tomorrow, definitely remembering this for future plug changes.
05-17-2017, 08:55 PM
#20
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I have heard others say that they've had success with getting #8 - by slipping the spark plug socket over the plug and using ratcheting box end wrench over the end of the socket. This is done from the bottom of the engine.