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Old May 11, 2017 | 05:09 PM
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Default first time changing spark plugs/wires

as the work on my car continues, I wanted to replace the valve cover seals and clean/paint the valve covers, and to do that you have to remove the coil packs, which I'm working on right now, also heard it makes it easier to change the plugs/wires if the coil packs are removed, and I figure if I do it myself, hey FREE LABOR. And being as this is my first time changing plugs/wires, just want to make sure I do it right, it is my understanding that when you remove the wires from the coils and the plugs, you grab them by the boot and give a tug on them at the same time give a twisting motion to release them, is that correct? Already have a spark plug socket, getting wires and plugs soon, my main question is my car has not moved an inch in 6 months(yes, I know, its killing me) would that be an issue as far as removing the plugs?
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Old May 11, 2017 | 06:20 PM
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no issue in pulling at the boot itself... however you will have much better access for the #8 plug from underneath the car
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Old May 12, 2017 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by blue09rocket
as the work on my car continues, I wanted to replace the valve cover seals and clean/paint the valve covers, and to do that you have to remove the coil packs, which I'm working on right now, also heard it makes it easier to change the plugs/wires if the coil packs are removed, and I figure if I do it myself, hey FREE LABOR. And being as this is my first time changing plugs/wires, just want to make sure I do it right, it is my understanding that when you remove the wires from the coils and the plugs, you grab them by the boot and give a tug on them at the same time give a twisting motion to release them, is that correct? Already have a spark plug socket, getting wires and plugs soon, my main question is my car has not moved an inch in 6 months(yes, I know, its killing me) would that be an issue as far as removing the plugs?
Listen....do yourself a big favor.....when you put the new spark plugs back in.....DO NOT tighten them too much. Spin them on only by hand with the socket on the spark plug. THEN...with the ratchet, just snug it down maybe a half turn.

Everyone thinks these cars are so hard to do a spark plug change on because the last guy to put them in tightened them down like a gorilla. No need to tighten spark plugs like that.

Next time you do it, they will all come out very easy and you will do the entire job in 40 minutes.

.
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Old May 12, 2017 | 01:41 PM
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Oh...and not sure if you purchased new wires yet. But the AC Delco plug wires are about the best you can get, especially for a stock or just mildly modded engine.

Also, PepBoys and Advance Auto wires......they are $36.00 and just as good.

I've had a 436ci LS6 stroker, a 427ci LS2 stroker and this new fully forged 390ci.

Plug wires are a complete waste of money to buy Taylors and Granitellis and others. They will do absolutely nothing for you in performance. Better and expensive wires are for the guys 600 RWHP and above.....

My PepBoys wires are about 8 years old. They were on my last 427ci, and now they are on my new 390ci. They are perfect...and very very tough wires.

.
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Old May 12, 2017 | 02:25 PM
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Do yourself a favor. Since you are pulling your coil packs, knock out the plugs and wires with them removed. You'll be glad you did, especially on #8. Of the 4 bolts that hold the coil pack rail to the valve cover on the right side, I left the inner most bolt off when I put it back on. That way, when I do plugs, it's so much easier to get #8. With 314,000 miles on my engine, I've changed them 3 times. Just some food for thought... and how I do it.
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Old May 12, 2017 | 04:53 PM
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thanks for the tips LS6427, Ive seen guys take a small length rubber hose, wrap it around the spark plug to aid in getting the threads started too, probably get ACDelco wires, not sure about plugs yet, recommendations for lightly modified engines? and TA Freak, will definitely not be reinstalling that rearmost bolt on the passenger side, actually working on that one right now, I have a stubby gear wrench to get at it.
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Old May 12, 2017 | 07:06 PM
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NGK TR55 gapped to .050

or

NGK 55 gapped to .050

(check the gap on each plug, don't trust that they are .050)
I have tried every gap from .035 to .060.....nothing works as good as .050 for a N/A engine. My stock engine, my 436ci stroker, my 427ci stroker and my current 390ci..... .050 is the best)

All 8 plugs line up very easily with the threads simply by putting the plug in the socket (no ratchet)....hold the plug in place with the tip of of your finger as you reach down to screw it in to each port with the socket. It'll go in nice and easy......make it as tight as you can with your fingers....as you tighten it wiggle the socket side-to-side....it'll keep creeping on tighter and tighter.
Then attach the ratchet and just give it a snug.....don't kill it.

Never used anything but the socket......you have a better feel for whats going on if you are spinning that socket with your fingers.

.

Last edited by LS6427; May 13, 2017 at 05:58 AM.
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Old May 14, 2017 | 08:43 AM
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how do you all go about the heat shields on the plugs as far as removal and installation?
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Old May 14, 2017 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by blue09rocket
how do you all go about the heat shields on the plugs as far as removal and installation?
I do not run the heat shield and have never had a issue.

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Old May 14, 2017 | 05:25 PM
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I have had MSD (no heat shields) on my plugs for a couple to several years now and no issues. Changing plugs was a lot easier than what it is made out to be. Definitely have a ratchet with a swivel head. I went underneath to get to plug #8 and #6. I too used just my hand to get the plugs started and then just used the socket and my hand to tighten it until I was ready to apply the final torque which is not a lot. Don't gorilla or German torque it. This job is really cake.
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Old May 14, 2017 | 06:29 PM
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Just got my last bolt on the passenger side coil bracket, if it helps, I know I had the intake off, but with a stubby 10mm gearwrench I just bought, laid on top of the engine and I had that thing off in not even 2 minutes.
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Old May 15, 2017 | 03:05 PM
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looking around underneath to see what it looks like when I do #8 spark plug, damn wish I had smaller arms, should be fun.
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Old May 16, 2017 | 10:43 AM
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Sand the heat shields and paint them with hi-heat spray paint.....silver or black. They can only be a plus.....not a negative.

.
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Old May 16, 2017 | 07:01 PM
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having some issues removing the spark plug wires from the spark plugs, no matter what I try, no matter what spark plug removal tool I use, I twist side to side and pull at the same time, no go. it just slides off and I crack my hand, any advice?
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Old May 17, 2017 | 09:03 AM
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I remember having to use a pair of channel lock pliers to aid in removal, I used one hand to squeeze (moderately) on the metal boot then the other hand to pull up on the teeth of the pliers using my knuckles as a lever (of course I had padded gloves on).
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Old May 17, 2017 | 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
NGK TR55 gapped to .050

or

NGK 55 gapped to .050

(check the gap on each plug, don't trust that they are .050)
I have tried every gap from .035 to .060.....nothing works as good as .050 for a N/A engine. My stock engine, my 436ci stroker, my 427ci stroker and my current 390ci..... .050 is the best)

All 8 plugs line up very easily with the threads simply by putting the plug in the socket (no ratchet)....hold the plug in place with the tip of of your finger as you reach down to screw it in to each port with the socket. It'll go in nice and easy......make it as tight as you can with your fingers....as you tighten it wiggle the socket side-to-side....it'll keep creeping on tighter and tighter.
Then attach the ratchet and just give it a snug.....don't kill it.

Never used anything but the socket......you have a better feel for whats going on if you are spinning that socket with your fingers.

.
What plugs do you run in your built motors? I currently run TR55 in my LQ9 408 but have read and heard people recommend switching to a 6 plug vs the 5 after you start making much hp and would you still run a .50 gap no matter the plug?
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Old May 17, 2017 | 10:53 AM
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Darth Cypher, do you have headers? Reason I ask is underneath I have OEM exhaust and I can only see #8.
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Old May 17, 2017 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by neblackshirts
What plugs do you run in your built motors? I currently run TR55 in my LQ9 408 but have read and heard people recommend switching to a 6 plug vs the 5 after you start making much hp and would you still run a .50 gap no matter the plug?
My three built motors all had TR55 gapped to .050. I know I used

427ci and 436ci stroker were at 500 RWHP
My current 390ci is at 400 RWHP.

I put TR6 plugs in once and it ran like hell......I couldn't drive it. Pulled them out and put TR55s back in.

Unless you're making over 650-700 RWHP N/A, .050 gap with TR55 is best, in my opinion.

Nitrous/Boost......I have no idea whats best.

.
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Old May 17, 2017 | 07:57 PM
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wow, removed the valve covers, could not believe the room I have, had such an issue getting the first 3 on the drivers side off, tool kept slipping off (valve covers were still on) passenger side(after I took off the covers) first 3 didn't even take 2 minutes to get the wires out of there, working on both rear plugs tomorrow, definitely remembering this for future plug changes.
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Old May 17, 2017 | 08:55 PM
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I have heard others say that they've had success with getting #8 - by slipping the spark plug socket over the plug and using ratcheting box end wrench over the end of the socket. This is done from the bottom of the engine.
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