BlackedOut LS1

iTrader: (4)

My 20 amp fuse that controls all of my interior lights, and exterior lights except for my front park lamps keep blowing. Anyone have an idea where to start tracing from. I haven't done of modified anything on that circuit so idk why the fuse keeps blowing.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

I was blowing that fuse whenever I had a short in my fog lights wiring. My hid kit in the fog lights was either bad, or I had a short circuit from a frayed wire.

I think I resolved the issue just by unhooking my hid fog lights. I do remember having to re wire them

peterpar

What year car are we talking about and what fuse block is the fuse in?

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

His avatar picture is a 98-02 trans am, so the fuse would be inside the drivers compartment on the drivers side outer dash.

BlackedOut LS1

iTrader: (4)

BRO!! my driver side plug stopped working for my HID fogs, I cut the plug and butt connected a new one in but i still had the problem.

I decided to hook up my wiring kit to get power straight from the battery and it is switched to both lights from the plug on the passenger side. And I do realize it may only happen when I use my fogs. but that wire is bunched up with a ton of other wires its crazy.

BlackedOut LS1

iTrader: (4)

yeah chrysler kid is correct its a 98 T/A, 20 amp fuse in fuse box on the driver side part of the dash

peterpar

Which fuse is it, the IP Dimmer? Knowing this will tell me what schematic to look for.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

It would have to be the TAIL LPS fuse since the IP DIMMER fuse is only 5 amps and the headlights have a 30 amp circuit breaker. But that fuse handles all exterior running lamps, including the front parking lights (although not the front DRLs/turn signals).

I would certainly call converting fog lights to HID a modification to that circuit so I suggest disconnecting the fog lights completely (including the HID ballast) and seeing if the problem stops. If so then you've narrowed down where you have to look for a short. If not then you have a short someplace in the original wiring that could take some determined testing to locate.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

It was years ago, it took me a few minutes to remember why I was blowing fuses, I remember having one fuse that had an led light to show when a fuse blew melt itself in the fuse slot. I guess it got really hot and melted the wire inside in such a way that it melted back across the fuse and I could smell it burning

I think I had to end up wiring new wires a relay and a switch for the hid fog lights, and then 3 weeks later a ballast blew. I went to put the stock fog lights back in and the housings were falling apart. I said screw it and now I run 4 inch led running lights off of the stock wiring. I still could never see if my fog lights were ever on with the hid kit, but the driving lights give off a bright blue light that is very visible for other drivers but does nothing for improving my vision of the road

Basically the stock wiring for the fogs runs the power off of one wire and over draws it's output and blows the fuse. So you'll need to run new wires and a new switch, or use the old power wire to the fogs as a trigger for a new relay to send power to new wires to the hid kit

In my car my passengers side connector that broke, and it was also the passengers side ballast that blew. They need independent power wires because power goes to one fog and then feeds the other

I got sick of all the wiring mess in the bumper I never went back to hid for the fogs

BlackedOut LS1

iTrader: (4)

I'm confused Bc I'm getting power via the battery now, but I'm pretty certain it's the fog circuits Bc I remember a short buzzing sound when I fixed my plugs and attached it to my HID system. This was before I hooked the relay system from the battery. Can I run two new circuits from fuse box?

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Just get rid of the HID kit. It's the problem.

I'm not sure how you have it wired but it needs to be independent from the car with its own power source to the battery with a fuse, and it's own independent relay and switch.

Wasn't worth it.

Leave it disconnected and see if it solves your problem. It might be something else blowing the fuse if you still have that problem. Mine would blow that fuse when the fog lights turned on, you might have a different problem