Ignition to starter
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: Jacksonville Fl
Ignition to starter Hey guys, I've looked everywhere for this drawing I'm looking for schematic that shows ignition to starter solenoid. I Have PCM to the rest of the car and I have the pin drawing/list.
I would appreciate it
I would appreciate it
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 83
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From: Jacksonville Fl
I wanted to thank you for the drawing, what I'm needing to know is does the "Skip Shift or/and the" Reverse Loc-out have anything to do with the car not starting? I have done the Vats by pass which turned the security light off the so I know that should have satisfied the BCM and the Vats. Her is why I'm asking because when the car won't start if I slap the shifter to the left and only the left it will start so after trouble shooting everything else I'm wondering if the skip shift or the reverse lockout could keep the car from starting... Oh and I have replaced and looped the clutch safety switch eliminating that problem
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2015
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Have you checked the 15A STRTR fuse in Engine Junction Box 2 ? There is also a starter relay in the same fuse block that controls the starter solenoid. I've attached a schematic that shows the fuse block and the contact points of the starter relay. Check for voltage between the dark green (B4) and yellow/black (C6) wires when the ignition switch is turned the start position. If you don't have voltage between these points, move the lead of the test light or meter that was connected to the yellow/black wire to a body ground and repeat turning the key switch to the start position. If you get a 12V reading doing this, the problem is in either your VATS bypass or the Body Control Module.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,326
Likes: 342
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Now that we're on the second thread for the same topic, have you considered that the problem might not be electrical? It seems you are making assumptions without testing. No, neither the reverse lockout (which is mechanical not electrical) nor the skip shift solenoid have any connection to starting. You can start a manual transmission vehicle in any gear as long as the clutch is fully disengaged.
If you're convinced that the problem is electrical then you need to prove it and determine where the problem is located by diagnostic testing rather than guesses. Start by checking whether you are getting power to the purple wire at the starter when the key is in the start position. If there is power there then start looking for a mechanical problem such as a bad starter motor (much more likely when any type of banging can resolve the issue) because it's not an electrical issue. If no power there then check the other end of the purple wire at the starter relay. If there's power at that end but not at the starter then there is some problem with the wire between the relay and the solenoid. If no power there then check the relay (swap it with another one from the junction box). Then check that the relay is getting input power on both the red and the dark green wires (red from the fuse, dark green from the clutch switch). Also check that the yellow/black wire has ground (from the BCM because of VATS). Keep working your way back through the circuit like that until you find the point where something isn't working as it should and you've found your problem. But at this point I'm willing to bet it's not electrical.
If you're convinced that the problem is electrical then you need to prove it and determine where the problem is located by diagnostic testing rather than guesses. Start by checking whether you are getting power to the purple wire at the starter when the key is in the start position. If there is power there then start looking for a mechanical problem such as a bad starter motor (much more likely when any type of banging can resolve the issue) because it's not an electrical issue. If no power there then check the other end of the purple wire at the starter relay. If there's power at that end but not at the starter then there is some problem with the wire between the relay and the solenoid. If no power there then check the relay (swap it with another one from the junction box). Then check that the relay is getting input power on both the red and the dark green wires (red from the fuse, dark green from the clutch switch). Also check that the yellow/black wire has ground (from the BCM because of VATS). Keep working your way back through the circuit like that until you find the point where something isn't working as it should and you've found your problem. But at this point I'm willing to bet it's not electrical.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 83
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From: Jacksonville Fl
I apologize for the inconvenience I might have caused for the second thread, It wasn't my intention to start another thread I was looking for a drawing and it turned in too the same topic as my other thread so if I need to I will delete this thread.. I do however truely appreciate the time you guys take to reply. I always take all the advice seriously and try my best to solve the issue I'm just not as electrically says some of you
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
My comment was not so much about starting a second thread as it was pointing out that this issue had been ongoing for a while now without any real diagnostics being done.
I understand that a lot of people aren't familiar with electrical work although asking for schematics seems to indicate a certain level of knowledge. My point is that if you have the necessary tools (basically a multimeter or even a test light) you can determine exactly where any electrical problem is located if you go through it step-by-step. Those of us who have been working electrical systems for many years will be happy to help you determine what tests to do and how to interpret the results.
I understand that a lot of people aren't familiar with electrical work although asking for schematics seems to indicate a certain level of knowledge. My point is that if you have the necessary tools (basically a multimeter or even a test light) you can determine exactly where any electrical problem is located if you go through it step-by-step. Those of us who have been working electrical systems for many years will be happy to help you determine what tests to do and how to interpret the results.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville Fl
I understand, I honestly didn't know where to start after I asked for help with the mod at the fuse box under the hood when you sent me information I couldn't get it to work I tried the other mod by trying to bypass the vats under dash with the resistors it worked somewhat as it turned off the security light and the issue seemed to lessen and it worked for several days and it started again. I ONLY asked for a schematic because a friend who is an electrician for the navy working on F-18's was trying to help me and tell me where to start. I didn't know where to go after the the different mods didn't work. I apologize if you think an idiot and didn't know where to start it seems I annoyed you so again I'm sorry.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 11,326
Likes: 342
From: Jacksonville, FL (originally from Toronto Canada)
Oh no, I'm not annoyed. Please don't ever think that we're not willing to help - that's why we're on these forums so much.
My post was intended to light a fire so that you would look at doing a structured series of tests to determine the actual cause of the problem rather than continuing to assume that it was electrical. It could be electrical but the evidence so far would support it being mechanical instead. Doing the tests I mentioned would make that determination without doubt.
If you want to get started with a test light or multimeter, or if your electrician friend needs specific testing procedures, we can start at the beginning and go through the circuit sequentially until we find the problem.
My post was intended to light a fire so that you would look at doing a structured series of tests to determine the actual cause of the problem rather than continuing to assume that it was electrical. It could be electrical but the evidence so far would support it being mechanical instead. Doing the tests I mentioned would make that determination without doubt.
If you want to get started with a test light or multimeter, or if your electrician friend needs specific testing procedures, we can start at the beginning and go through the circuit sequentially until we find the problem.