Some A/C help please
05-10-2018, 05:46 PM
#1
Some A/C help please a/C not working, normally every year I will add a can of Freon and all is well most of the summer. 1998 Z28 345,451 miles on the OEM parts. Now I hook up my gauges and drain the pressure from the Low side and add 1 can of Freon and I wind up with 100 psi on both sides and the clutch won't kick in.
05-11-2018, 04:52 PM
#3
I do not have a vac. pump yet. I really need to know what the problem is first with the pressure. Normally in the spring I will turn on the a/c and it blows warm air, and the pressure is around 35 lbs. Now this time I add 1 can of Freon and the pressure is at 70 and as it runs it climbs to 100 on the low side and when I check the high side it is at 110 lbs. What is not working that would cause this? The system seems to hold this pressure. Do we have any A/C gurus here? That can help me with this?
05-11-2018, 06:12 PM
#6
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a/C not working, normally every year I will add a can of Freon and all is well most of the summer. 1998 Z28 345,451 miles on the OEM parts. Now I hook up my gauges and drain the pressure from the Low side and add 1 can of Freon and I wind up with 100 psi on both sides and the clutch won't kick in.
05-11-2018, 06:18 PM
#7
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Unfortunately all the Freon you put in will have to be captured before removing the pressure switch. And if your going to do it right go ahead and replace the orifice tube in the line and pull a vacuum on it to draw any moisture out before recharging the system. I'm pretty sure it's your pressure switch it may even be the connector giving you trouble. I have just replaced the switch, recharged it and went on down the road though.
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05-11-2018, 06:26 PM
#9
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05-11-2018, 06:34 PM
#10
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05-11-2018, 06:42 PM
#11
will this work?
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-va...ors-96677.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-va...ors-96677.html
not sure. I would get a Regular vac pump. Check offerup or CL. You can sell it and get ur money back
05-11-2018, 08:39 PM
#13
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I'd have to go looking around in the morning to see If I can locate another one. I know from pulling the engine I only had to disconnect the plug to the compressor and the plug from that pressure switch you have shown. Anyone else want to chime in on this?
05-11-2018, 09:46 PM
#14
Its a pressure Transducer (not a switch) and its on a shrader valved fitting. So you should be able to simply screw it off and screw it back on. OF COURSE ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GOOGLES when working around refrigerants unless you like being blind. YOU should NOT touch this system with your limited knowledge in my opinion.
05-11-2018, 11:29 PM
#15
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I believe it's the one on the line after the orifice tube you need to be dealing with. For safety by all means wear goggles and hopefully you can capture the refrigerant and not release it into the atmosphere. If you decide to release it into the atmosphere get a towel, sheet ,shop rags, whatever and wrap it around the line at the service port and depress the shrader valve to release the pressure off of the system. Keep that rag around there to catch any compressor oil that will be escaping from the system as it can get a little messy if not careful. Once you've done that go ahead and disconnect the line and replace the orifice tube and the pressure switch/transducer and reinstall the line. Be sure not to over tighten the line when reinstalling. Pulling a vacuum is recommended before recharging the system and it's a good idea to insert one of those small cans of PAG46 oil charge before putting in the refrigerant.
05-12-2018, 07:18 AM
#16
Its a pressure Transducer (not a switch) and its on a shrader valved fitting. So you should be able to simply screw it off and screw it back on. OF COURSE ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GOOGLES when working around refrigerants unless you like being blind. YOU should NOT touch this system with your limited knowledge in my opinion.
05-12-2018, 11:41 AM
#18
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If you can swing it I'd replace the dryer and the compressor.
05-12-2018, 12:05 PM
#20
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My car had sat for a long time "7 years" with a broken rod and when I was putting the car back together I noticed my compressor was leaking from this area held in by a snap ring. I don't know what the technical name for it is but you could clearly see the dye coming from it so I removed it and replaced all the seals and reinstalled. I also replaced the orifice tube but not the dryer and went ahead and pulled a vacuum on the system and everything was a go "no leaks" so I went ahead and charged the system. It's still blowing cold but it has a leak and my funds where depleted at that time or I would have replaced the compressor and dryer. I'm just thinking you may not need to purchase all of those parts but like I said if you can afford it's probably your best bet.