Cruise Control issues
#1
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Cruise Control issues
So it's been out for about a year now ... and it died a slow death because before it went out for good, it would work sometimes ... and other times not. Hitting a bump or going over railroad tracks would cut it off most of the time. So far the only troubleshooting that I've done is check and adjust the CC release switch and verify that it's normally closed and does open when pressing the pedal. It also has 12v at the switch and is continuous. It's an automatic, so there's no clutch release switch.
I still have to continue troubleshooting ..... but figured I'd see if anyone had some ideas. Until I get back to trouble shooting, I'm kind of leaning towards the module or the multi-function lever.
I still have to continue troubleshooting ..... but figured I'd see if anyone had some ideas. Until I get back to trouble shooting, I'm kind of leaning towards the module or the multi-function lever.
#2
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iTrader: (5)
It does sound like something electrical is breaking contact. I haven't worked on this module before, but most of our others suffer from the cold solder joint problem. https://www.quora.com/What-is-a-cold-solder-joint
If the module (I haven't looked at the schematic) requires a constant voltage input and has a cracked joint on that line, then it might interrupt when you hit a bump. A lot of people have had this issue with the headlight control module.
If the module (I haven't looked at the schematic) requires a constant voltage input and has a cracked joint on that line, then it might interrupt when you hit a bump. A lot of people have had this issue with the headlight control module.
#3
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
It does sound like something electrical is breaking contact. I haven't worked on this module before, but most of our others suffer from the cold solder joint problem. https://www.quora.com/What-is-a-cold-solder-joint
If the module (I haven't looked at the schematic) requires a constant voltage input and has a cracked joint on that line, then it might interrupt when you hit a bump. A lot of people have had this issue with the headlight control module.
If the module (I haven't looked at the schematic) requires a constant voltage input and has a cracked joint on that line, then it might interrupt when you hit a bump. A lot of people have had this issue with the headlight control module.
#4
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Thread Starter
Made some progress .... was about to pull the CC module to check for cold solder joints but wanted to check the electrical first and I wasn't getting any voltage at all out of the multi-function lever/switch. AC works so I knew the fuse was good. Checked my 3rd brake light as it supplies a ground to G on the CC module.. and it was fine. So ..... I happen to have a spare multi-function lever that I have temporarily connected and will check the cruise on my way to work today.
#5
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Thread Starter
The cruise "set" switch on the lever is electrically open. What is involved in replacing the lever? I see a groove on the metal shaft. Could it be as easy as removing a clip and sliding the old one out without having to pull the steering wheel>
#7
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iTrader: (5)
^ That is the process, but... the socket is plastic and can get brittle over time. So, don't be too rough, otherwise the socket (in the wiper control switch) could break. If that happens, it's a $200 part and a half day to replace it. (The column needs to be taken apart.)
To get to the multi-function electrical, there is a plastic pop-off cover on the side of the column.
To get to the multi-function electrical, there is a plastic pop-off cover on the side of the column.
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#8
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^ That is the process, but... the socket is plastic and can get brittle over time. So, don't be too rough, otherwise the socket (in the wiper control switch) could break. If that happens, it's a $200 part and a half day to replace it. (The column needs to be taken apart.)
To get to the multi-function electrical, there is a plastic pop-off cover on the side of the column.
To get to the multi-function electrical, there is a plastic pop-off cover on the side of the column.
Everything checks out at the connector, 12v is switching properly as well as the brake switch... but still no cruise. Next step is to pull the connector on the module and check those pinouts. May have to even break out the oscilloscope and see if the PCM is pulsing 60hz ......
There is a test that I found where you hold the set and R/A slider switch while holding down the break pedal and it's suppose to rev slightly ... I did this test and I'm not getting that .... so .... back to the drawing board......