Double Aught

iTrader: (5)

The security light has come on while driving and after doing the internet search, found many threads all pointing to the cylinder lockset. Is it possible it is failing after less than 3 years? It is a Delco unit, bought new on Amazon. Anyone have these fail so soon?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

It's very unlikely. The key cylinder just has two contacts in it which press against the resistor in the ignition key to complete a circuit which reads the resistance of the key pellet. The chances that the cylinder contacts would wear out or be damaged in such a short time are slim. You could try cleaning the contacts on the key (pencil eraser followed by rubbing alcohol) and the contacts inside the key cylinder (spray contact cleaner and a cotton swab) to see if a buildup of grime is causing incorrect readings. You could also try another key if you have one - the pellet contacts can get worn and cause a bad connection.

Double Aught

iTrader: (5)

Both keys cause the light to come on. While I did clean the keys themselves, I did not clean the contacts. If after cleaning the contacts and the problem remains, what might be the cause? If there is a sticky or a thread that explains a diagnostic past what we are discussing now, let me know.

bammax

Most people just bypass the vats system. It was great when new but as these systems age it ends up being more of a hassle than anything.

Double Aught

iTrader: (5)

I had the VATS removed when I restomodded a 94 LT1 into my 68 SS Impala. I am assuming I can have a tuner do the same on the Firehawk?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

No, VATS cannot be tuned out on a 97-02 f-body. VATS is in the BCM and it disables the vehicle in two ways - it turns off the fuel enable signal to the PCM and it removes the starter relay ground preventing the starter from engaging. You can have the PCM programmed to ignore the lack of a fuel enable signal but the BCM is not programmable so you still end up with no starter.

There are two ways to disable VATS. The standard method is to bypass it using resistors so that it sees the correct resistance value regardless of the key used. The other option is to have the PCM programmed to ignore the missing fuel enable signal plus rewire the starter relay to have an independent ground. The second method works but will leave the security light on.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Do you want to fix the car and the system (keeping the security benefits) or do you want to hack the car so it will just run?

"Most" people do the VATS bypass when they want to avoid opening the column to fix things. The downside is that this bypass half-hotwires the car and you loose the benefits of VATS.

The system has the key, (it looks like your keys are fine) the contacts in the cylinder, the wires that go to the BCM, and the BCM that process the signal. The problem can be with any of those components. The keys and cylinders are the wearing parts and hence, the most likely to fail. If you get a wiring schematic, you should be able to test the wires at the base of the steering column with the key in the ignition to see if you can read the resistance of the pellet in the key. (This would confirm if the part of the system in the column is good or bad.)

Double Aught

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the replies. I am going to have to give it some thought. Electrical issues are not my strong suit. I look at an electrical diagram and really can't figure it out.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

The main culprit with the ignition cylinder is the **** poor GM design....the 2 itty bitty wires that wear thru due to constant chafing

Cost me 500$ at the dealer to fix....my son did it himself for less than 100$

Check it out and get back to us....my bets are on the wires

Double Aught

iTrader: (5)

I did the R&R on the switch. I may just get in there this weekend and have a look-see.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You gotta learn sometime! Just say the word and we'll move this thread to Stereo & Electronics and walk you through the schematics. As long as you can pull the column apart and translate the schematic into real life, the electrical isn't anything more advanced than I did in my 3rd grade "Batteries & Bulbs" lab.

Here's a thread on the column disassembly if you want to ponder that: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...mn-repair.html

Double Aught

iTrader: (5)

Did a bit of research on the "resistor bypass". I think I can handle that myself. Yes, the car will revert to pre-vats protection, but a thread I was reading had one poster adding in a kill switch. Going to find the resistance of both keys and get the appropriate resistors.