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runs fine only in closed loop.

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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 07:53 PM
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Default runs fine only in closed loop.

My LS1 is put away so I haven't been on here in ages but I asked a question in a sierra forum and those guys probably don't even know what closed/open loop is.

But my 99 Sierra (5.3 bone stock) has had an annoying issue for the last couple of years and I finally have a fire under my butt to get some things sorted out (kids have been a big distraction .i.e life/time suckers).

So if the engine is cold is bogs a little bit. The colder out the worse it is. Once it's up to @ 160-180 it runs fine. So I figure it has to be something sensor related that either isn't there is closed loop is doesn't really effect closed loop.

There are no codes and I don't see anything that stands out on the scanner. I don't want to drop 100 buck to unlock the ecu since I am leaving it stock but my matco scanner I see almost everything live and nothing looks odd but maybe there is something I am overlooking.

I have had two new fuel pumps in the last couple of years and filters as well. (the first pump the check valve failed to I had to replace it again). Cleaned the MAF.

02s are old but I would think that would cause an issue when warm not cold.

Hoping someone has seen this before and and it's simple that I am overlooking.
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Old Apr 7, 2019 | 08:58 PM
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1st thing I would do is check the fuel pressure and fuel trims. That will tell you a bunch, might be running lean from a vacuum leak etc.
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Old Apr 8, 2019 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by RockinWs6
1st thing I would do is check the fuel pressure and fuel trims. That will tell you a bunch, might be running lean from a vacuum leak etc.
Fuel Pres. is good to go. That was why I changed the pump (because the pres wouldn't hold when off) so naturally I checked the pres.

I am trying to figure out which parameters are diff between open and closed loop. Sprayed the intake down looking for intake leak and found none. that was something I reluctantly checked because I don't think a vac leak would be diff between warmed up and cold. Plus the intake has never been off.

And I am not sure I can check the fuel trims on it. I haven't unlocked the pcm. I don't want to spend the 100 bucks to unlock it as I am leaving this one stock. My taghoe is unlocked and my LS1 is inlocked but not my beater truck.

I guess I could hook my wide band up to it.
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Old Apr 8, 2019 | 11:02 AM
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I told you where to start....... don't assume anything......1st thing you need to understand is how the pcm uses the fuel trim data when the engine is cold. Checking for vacuum leaks is tough because cold it could be leaking all over the place.....hot it could be sealed up tight. I've been down this road a few times with LS1 engine using the nylon intake. Hook a fuel pres gauge up cold start the engine and watch the fuel trims. It will tell you exactly what is going on. I'll bet all the intake bolts FEEL tight but their not.
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Old Apr 8, 2019 | 11:05 AM
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I'm going off memory here so don't quote me. Open loop should be essentially speed density which relies on intake temp, manifold pressure and throttle position. A lazy sensor or a small vacuum leak can throw things off, especially the map sensor reading. Closed loop brings in mass air and O2 which can compensate for the lazy sensor or vac leak.

First check is for vacuum leaks. If you don't find any then watch the map sensor in real time and look for a nice steady reading and a change that corresponds to changes in rpms.
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Old Apr 8, 2019 | 08:29 PM
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The fuel trims can effect the cold fuel if I remember correctly its been a while but if the fuel trims are positive in closed loop that extra fuel also gets added to open loop operation. If the trims are negative fuel is not taken away in open loop.
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Old Apr 9, 2019 | 03:04 PM
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Sometimes stock ECU is set up to go Into closed loop colder than you think. Then the O2s trim way positive cause they are cold.

It could be that at 170 the sensors finally warm
Up enough to quit dumping fuel.
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Old Apr 9, 2019 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Sometimes stock ECU is set up to go Into closed loop colder than you think. Then the O2s trim way positive cause they are cold.

It could be that at 170 the sensors finally warm
Up enough to quit dumping fuel.
That makes a lot of sense since the sensors are stock ad the truck has 240K on it.
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Old Apr 9, 2019 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bammax
I'm going off memory here so don't quote me. Open loop should be essentially speed density which relies on intake temp, manifold pressure and throttle position. A lazy sensor or a small vacuum leak can throw things off, especially the map sensor reading. Closed loop brings in mass air and O2 which can compensate for the lazy sensor or vac leak.

First check is for vacuum leaks. If you don't find any then watch the map sensor in real time and look for a nice steady reading and a change that corresponds to changes in rpms.
I guess it can't hurt to check vacuum cold and warm and see if it changes at all. I really don't think it's a vacuum leak as I have dealt with them before and the diff between cold and warm is usually not this noticeable. I will def look at MAP as well. MY thoughts are in SD the MAP is probably playing a much bigger role than closed loop.

Thanks
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Old Apr 9, 2019 | 08:27 PM
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When my intakes were loose cold it barely ran cold, tossed misfire codes and ran perfect warm, no leaks detected. cold it leaked like a sieve.
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Old Apr 9, 2019 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RockinWs6
When my intakes were loose cold it barely ran cold, tossed misfire codes and ran perfect warm, no leaks detected. cold it leaked like a sieve.
Was that a stock intake that had never been off? I;m still going to check it later on probably on the weekend but I was just curious.
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Old Apr 10, 2019 | 12:42 AM
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Just had a similar problem on my ls1. Cold start was tough barely wanted to stay on. Once it got warmed up things were fine aside from an idle search that I’m still tracking. Anyway. Hooked up a homemade smoke machine ($10) and my intake gasket was leaking. Swapped out the gaskets and I was good to go.
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