Poly motor mounts, trans won't "sag" for removal
#1
Poly motor mounts, trans won't "sag" for removal
So Im changing the torque converter and when I removed the cross member, the tail housing of the trans literally dropped 2 inches... If that.
I disconnected the y pipe from the headers and got a couple more. Still couldn't even get the torque arm bracket off. I'm renting a stall with a lift at the diy garage down the street, so I'll be back in the morning, hopefully to finish it armed with ideas from you fine gents lol.
I disconnected the y pipe from the headers and got a couple more. Still couldn't even get the torque arm bracket off. I'm renting a stall with a lift at the diy garage down the street, so I'll be back in the morning, hopefully to finish it armed with ideas from you fine gents lol.
#6
I apologize, my description wasn't good enough.
When I dropped the cross member, the trans stayed tucked up in the tunnel. It didn't tilt down. It dropped a couple inches maybe. After I disconnected the y pipe, I got a couple more inches. The end of the trans is barely below the plane of the floor. The top bolt of the torque arm bracket is still in the tail housing. The more pressing issue is that the top Bell housing bolt is not even exposed.
It's not bound up on anything. I grabbed the tail housing and can move the whole works around.
When I dropped the cross member, the trans stayed tucked up in the tunnel. It didn't tilt down. It dropped a couple inches maybe. After I disconnected the y pipe, I got a couple more inches. The end of the trans is barely below the plane of the floor. The top bolt of the torque arm bracket is still in the tail housing. The more pressing issue is that the top Bell housing bolt is not even exposed.
It's not bound up on anything. I grabbed the tail housing and can move the whole works around.
#7
TECH Junkie
I apologize, my description wasn't good enough.
When I dropped the cross member, the trans stayed tucked up in the tunnel. It didn't tilt down. It dropped a couple inches maybe. After I disconnected the y pipe, I got a couple more inches. The end of the trans is barely below the plane of the floor. The top bolt of the torque arm bracket is still in the tail housing. The more pressing issue is that the top Bell housing bolt is not even exposed.
When I dropped the cross member, the trans stayed tucked up in the tunnel. It didn't tilt down. It dropped a couple inches maybe. After I disconnected the y pipe, I got a couple more inches. The end of the trans is barely below the plane of the floor. The top bolt of the torque arm bracket is still in the tail housing. The more pressing issue is that the top Bell housing bolt is not even exposed.
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#13
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
I just fought with my manual transmission for 3 hours to get it off the car with the bell housing attached. I got clued into the trick after taking the time to sit down and watch the videos. Once I started dealing with the bell housing as a separate piece, everything clicked together with no problem.
#16
You need to remove the transmission from the bell housing with the long extensions and wobble bars (or swivel adapters) first and then remove the bell housing as a separate piece. Even with stock mounts, the transmission can't come off with the bell housing attached and the sheet metal under the car unscathed.
I just fought with my manual transmission for 3 hours to get it off the car with the bell housing attached. I got clued into the trick after taking the time to sit down and watch the videos. Once I started dealing with the bell housing as a separate piece, everything clicked together with no problem.
I just fought with my manual transmission for 3 hours to get it off the car with the bell housing attached. I got clued into the trick after taking the time to sit down and watch the videos. Once I started dealing with the bell housing as a separate piece, everything clicked together with no problem.
It was a project that's for sure. The pullout spacing was to much, so I had to put in washers to get the gap right. I also replaced the shifter cable while I was under there. Side note, the starter is 18 years old and is on its way out. When I put it back in, all I got was solenoid click from the starter. So I got under there, hit it a few times with a rubber mallet and well, it worked lol.
I tell you what. Just the part throttle cruising and the little gassing I gave it: it's wayyyy peppier then before. This converter really woke it up. Can't wait to really put my foot to it.
Thanks for the input guys!
#17
Save the manuals!
iTrader: (5)
If you install the bell housing and then the transmission in two steps to put it back on and then everything should snap back together like Legos.