Strange noises 2002 WS6
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From: SC
Strange noises 2002 WS6 My 2002 Ws6 has rattle or valve knock when flooring it when driving. I cant tell where its coming from and doesnt do it when in park and floored.. Also has a tic noise when ist started when cold that goes away once warmed. None of this seems to affect the performance and something in the front rattles when pulling in driveway and scrapes...What is it and please dont tell me its expensive!
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Thanks From what im hearing the ticking sound at cold start is common piston slap...now my car is used so no history but ive bought plugs wires plugs and ive been running 89 octane..I am waiting to swap plugs and wires to when i can install my bbk long tubes and y pipe since it will be easy to get to ...some say to check coils too its just weird that it only does it under a load and not in park/neutral
Not good. Your car will revolt against this. You need the high octane stuff.
Do you have a copy of the owners manual? (This and other important things are covered inside.) This time of year, its also important to make sure you have the right oil. If you don't have 5W30 in and are in a cold place, that will also cause issues.
Do you have a copy of the owners manual? (This and other important things are covered inside.) This time of year, its also important to make sure you have the right oil. If you don't have 5W30 in and are in a cold place, that will also cause issues.
BTW - Your car is 20 years old. No matter what the mileage; anything that goes wrong will be expensive unless you do the work yourself. Another thing I've experience a lot of lately is one repair leading to another... (I had a leaking slave cylinder and then found I needed to replace the clutch. While doing that, I found my oil pan gasket was bad. Then I found the oil pan was also cracked...) It doesn't end.
If you aren't familiar with doing the major work on the car but want to get into it, folks here will be happy to help you get started.
If you aren't familiar with doing the major work on the car but want to get into it, folks here will be happy to help you get started.
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From: Knappa, Oregon
My 2002 Ws6 has rattle or valve knock when flooring it when driving. I cant tell where its coming from and doesnt do it when in park and floored.. Also has a tic noise when ist started when cold that goes away once warmed. None of this seems to affect the performance and something in the front rattles when pulling in driveway and scrapes...What is it and please dont tell me its expensive!
From what im hearing the ticking sound at cold start is common piston slap...now my car is used so no history but ive bought plugs wires plugs and ive been running 89 octane..I am waiting to swap plugs and wires to when i can install my bbk long tubes and y pipe since it will be easy to get to ...some say to check coils too its just weird that it only does it under a load and not in park/neutral
You should always be running premium fuel. If 91 octane is all that is available, run that, if a higher octane is available run that. You have a high compression engine and it needs high octane. Not just for the track but all the time. The PCM will try to adjust for shitty gas, but it will just try, it want's high octane. A person may think that they can run a lower octane fuel if they are just doing normal driving around town, but that is wrong.
My wife put Safeway premium in my car once because she got .10c off, knocked like hell when accelerating. never bought their gas again.
Your problems are, in my opinion, normal piston slap at start up, and low octane gas in a high compression engine. The difference between a tank full of 89 and a tank of 91 or better will never be noticed by your wallet, but the engine can tell. Don't go cheap on the gas and ignore the start up ticking, it is normal. Of course you may have other factors contributing to what seems like pre-ignition knocking.
One more thing about tracking down mystery engine noises, you may be certain that the noise is coming from the engine internals, jack it up or putting it on a lift and listening from under the car can give you an entirely new perspective. Maybe a slight exhaust leak.
89 octane is making your car "ping" under load (half to full throttle).... DO NOT USE ANYTHING UNDER PREMIUM IN YOUR CAR!!!!!! Idle noise is piston slap and should lower in audible as the motor warms up (will not go away, just lower in volume). Keep using 89 octane and your pistons will want to get some fresh air the hard way.......
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From: SC
Guys Thanks!!!!! No I dont have the owners manual I bought it used but I DO want a 2002 Trans Am WS6 manual! Im running 5/W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic, yes Ive been running cheap 89 octane gas in it, I plan on doing the exhaust when I can find someone that wont kill me on install...its a BBK SS long tube any Y pipe new in box in front of me..have the throttle body bypass ready to go as well as slp lid and k&n filter.. I bought new 8mm wires and ngk spark plugs .Ive got extended wires for O2 sensors and some L shaped O2 spacers as well supposed to help with codes, Pott's ported throttle body...tapered front and back parts that go to the MAF sensor...egr block off plates....and have been looking for a used cat back but if I cant find one ill prob go with slp loudmouth 2 BUT as of right now its 100% stock and then the noise scared me...As of right now im going tp run 91-3 octane and maybe some octane boost and see how that does! BTW my Driver door outside handle rattles is there a O ring or something that has worked? If not I have a replacement door handle but its not painted like mine and suggestions on it or what all Ive just said? Again Thanks!!
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octane boost only increases the octane rating by points... Meaning if you put 93 octane in your tank and dump a bottle in... It will raise it to 93.3 or 93.5...... So do not go in thinking you will be running 97 octane or higher. Food for thought this morning
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From: SC
Well good to know, as I did not know the formula to find what the total octane would be raised to. So best I can get will be less than .5 of an increase from the original octane rating I put in? Now is that from totally empty to full tank and then the bottle added to get the 93.3-93.5? What would it be if you use the octane boost with 1/4 tank? About 94.3 ? Hey know what? I remember back in the day there was a gas station that had 1 pump with "race gas" with like 97 or more octane do you or anyone know what the name of it is/was? Im in Greenville SC Thanks!!!!!!!
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From: Montgomery (Lake Conroe,) TX north of Houston
I don't think that you need to be wasting time thinking about octane boosters. What you need is a tank of 93 octane, premium gas. That should cure the pinging under load.
I don't know how much 89 octane you've got in the tank right now but I'd find 93 octane and get the mixed average up. If you've got a half tank of 89, I'd fill it up with 93 and go a little easier on the throttle to not induce the pinging. The pinging if very damaging!
I don't know how much 89 octane you've got in the tank right now but I'd find 93 octane and get the mixed average up. If you've got a half tank of 89, I'd fill it up with 93 and go a little easier on the throttle to not induce the pinging. The pinging if very damaging!
Here you go:
https://my.gm.com/content/dam/gmowne...ird_owners.pdf
You can also get the official printed copy that the car came from the dealership with from Helm Inc.
dannyual777 gives the method for getting out of your octane pit. Just fill up with 93 ASAP and do 1/8 tanks until the pinging goes a way. Then run it down to 1/2 tank and refill. (At that point, your engine will be happy with some octane margin, so you can run down the full tank and start the move to super-premium permanently.
This is going to be bad. We/this engine, don't tolerate oil shedding off of these things well. The outcome is evil and horsepower is sapped from the engine (it can't read airflow through the MAF and the O2 sensors can also become contaminated). If you go to a paper filter, you'll preserve all the gains you are looking to get from your other parts.
Please start another thread on this. If you have pictures or more descriptions on how/where the rattle happens, that would be great. There are a number of physical linkages and connections inside the door panel, which should be easily serviceable.
https://my.gm.com/content/dam/gmowne...ird_owners.pdf
You can also get the official printed copy that the car came from the dealership with from Helm Inc.
dannyual777 gives the method for getting out of your octane pit. Just fill up with 93 ASAP and do 1/8 tanks until the pinging goes a way. Then run it down to 1/2 tank and refill. (At that point, your engine will be happy with some octane margin, so you can run down the full tank and start the move to super-premium permanently.
This is going to be bad. We/this engine, don't tolerate oil shedding off of these things well. The outcome is evil and horsepower is sapped from the engine (it can't read airflow through the MAF and the O2 sensors can also become contaminated). If you go to a paper filter, you'll preserve all the gains you are looking to get from your other parts.
Please start another thread on this. If you have pictures or more descriptions on how/where the rattle happens, that would be great. There are a number of physical linkages and connections inside the door panel, which should be easily serviceable.
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From: SC
Thanks! as far as drivers door handle, not sure what pics I could take its painted same as my car and it has enuff play to rattle while driving Ive never had it out and im cripple so I was hoping this was something common and people might already know the fix BUT I do have a brand new door handle in chrome that can be robbed of parts or maybe just the actual painted handle it self cud be swapped I dont know
This is typical, but not typically caused by the handle. There are a number of long linkages in the door connecting the outer door handle to the inner door handle (on the opposite end of the door) and to the latch mechanism. (just below the outer door handle) Those linkages come from the factory with anti-rattle sleeves on them and are held to the parts by plastic retaining clips. Sometimes, people take off those sleeves or they come out of place. New retaining clips can be had from the Dorman "HELP!" section in your local parts store. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-28884-75450.aspx
You'll have to take the inner door panel off to address whatever is going on. A good way to start is to take the panel off and then go for a drive. You'll be able to pinpoint the noise easier that way. Likewise, you can also immobilize each rod individually (with a towel or something like that) and then go for a drive to see if things go silent. If so, then you can address the sleeves and clips for that problem rod.
You'll have to take the inner door panel off to address whatever is going on. A good way to start is to take the panel off and then go for a drive. You'll be able to pinpoint the noise easier that way. Likewise, you can also immobilize each rod individually (with a towel or something like that) and then go for a drive to see if things go silent. If so, then you can address the sleeves and clips for that problem rod.
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From: SC
Wow thanks!!! Tho it sure does sound like its the handle and it does stop when I reach out and pull it up lightly but I guess it could be what you are saying as well! I need that door worked on anyways its sagging and catching the small triangle when opening the door unless the window is down about a inch
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From: South Carolina
I'd put a couple gallons of 93 in the tank then get out on I-85 and cruise in the slow lane to lower the tank level, then find an exit and top off with 93.
I guarantee we are kin folk lol
That is an uncommon last name for sure. Most my kin are from the Spartanburg area but I was born and raised in Charlotte. My son just had triplets last year to add three more to the clans namesake.
I guarantee we are kin folk lol
That is an uncommon last name for sure. Most my kin are from the Spartanburg area but I was born and raised in Charlotte. My son just had triplets last year to add three more to the clans namesake.
Last edited by RedXray; Jan 13, 2021 at 01:11 PM.
When you do this, the handle will come tight on those linkages. You may just have a broken or missing plastic retainer in the door. If so, the new one just snaps on. Easy fix, but the PITA is getting the door apart and getting hands through everything inside to get to the linkage.
The triangular trim behind the door/window? That's a pretty big sag. If so, pressure from the sag could be placed on the latch mechanism and everything back there. It could all be related.
The triangular trim behind the door/window? That's a pretty big sag. If so, pressure from the sag could be placed on the latch mechanism and everything back there. It could all be related.
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From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
Thread Starter
Teching In
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From: SC
I'd put a couple gallons of 93 in the tank then get out on I-85 and cruise in the slow lane to lower the tank level, then find an exit and top off with 93.
I guarantee we are kin folk lol
That is an uncommon last name for sure. Most my kin are from the Spartanburg area but I was born and raised in Charlotte. My son just had triplets last year to add three more to the clans namesake.
I guarantee we are kin folk lol
That is an uncommon last name for sure. Most my kin are from the Spartanburg area but I was born and raised in Charlotte. My son just had triplets last year to add three more to the clans namesake.
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From: SC
Originally Posted by Mark OShields View Post
I need that door worked on anyways its sagging and catching the small triangle when opening the door unless the window is down about a inch
The triangular trim behind the door/window? That's a pretty big sag. If so, pressure from the sag could be placed on the latch mechanism and everything back there. It could all be related.
I agree my 2002 y87 convertible must have had same problem as the part fell off of it and they are EXPENSIVE for a tiny triangle but the guy who was fixing something on my car got bored and made me one out of metal and powder coated it and it looked way better than oem didnt charge me anything for it either think the repair was minor like a alt or something
I need that door worked on anyways its sagging and catching the small triangle when opening the door unless the window is down about a inch
The triangular trim behind the door/window? That's a pretty big sag. If so, pressure from the sag could be placed on the latch mechanism and everything back there. It could all be related.
I agree my 2002 y87 convertible must have had same problem as the part fell off of it and they are EXPENSIVE for a tiny triangle but the guy who was fixing something on my car got bored and made me one out of metal and powder coated it and it looked way better than oem didnt charge me anything for it either think the repair was minor like a alt or something
Last edited by Mark OShields; Jan 17, 2021 at 06:27 AM. Reason: forgot to add his quote
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From: SC
Yeah I date a girl from Parker think her last name was *** but I worked with a Danny Cantrell at Century 3, We had a girl named Cindy newton that lived in devenger place few streets behind me. And dont know if you know Robby Neely or not but hes in spartanburg and races dirt bikes and is ktm dealer but back when we were into racing stand up jet ski's and spent many late nights working in his shop with him on those 2 stroke motors, I havent been to see him since he got all big time while i was in FL and has a fancy shop/dealership I hear