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I found this thread from 2015; it lists the OEM system components, but it seems that a few of the P/Ns are dead, seeing how some won't pull on Amazon or Summit.
I can't find an updated list, with superseded P/Ns, does anyone have a list?
I bought one off of Rock auto and had a shop install it in the spring. It is so cold it hurts and i haven't had a single issue with it (knocks on wood lol)
I bought one off of Rock auto and had a shop install it in the spring. It is so cold it hurts and i haven't had a single issue with it (knocks on wood lol)
Which one did you go with? Did you get a complete kit?
I bought a kit on ebay and tuned it to blow around 29 degrees. Super quiet and came with everything (and extras) I needed.
It's currently 250 shipped. Comes with compressor, dryer/accumulator, oil, orifice tube and o rings. It's part KT 3705 from oe_replacement
Just my personal experience but it's been a great purchase so far.
Rolling with same compressor and dryer on the 01 but I've never seen 29° on the thermometer..Rockauto has always had better prices than my local part stores and I've saved money as a result. Parts and Labor isn't cheap, especially when the ones providing the labor mark up the price of the parts. Saved my daughter nearly $600 at NTB.
I'm actually a licensed HVAC guy (for residential and commercial) but the principals are the same. When I removed the old stuff, I measured to within a quarter of an ounce the amount of oil I removed so I'd know how much PAG to re introduce. I also used a micron guage when pulling an evacuation on the system to remove as much moisture as absolutely possible before charging the system. Being that an auto system is not hermetically sealed the way a traditional system in a home or building is as well as the utilization of rubber hoses and gaskets, these systems can't be pulled as low as a house either but you can still pull a deep evac. I used the same superheat calculations to dial in the exact amount of refrigerant the system needed and would efficiently use (used dry bulb on outside ambient air to work in the calculations) etc etc.
Does all of this have to be done? Probably not. I've had to repair cars and work trucks before on a very tight schedule and they come out just fine. Just remove as much oil as you can, clear the lines front to back, clear out the evaporator and the condenser coils if you're not replacing them, add the necessary oil to the compressor and the rest in the accumulator (the instructions will give you the ratio or oz amount).
Make sure you put a nice long nitrogen charge to leak check (bonus, nitrogen removed moisture too). If no leaks are detected, pull a good deep evac on the system. With the pressure still negative, start adding the refrigerant (have the AC set to MAX and the windows down) and bam you're done. I did it the way I did it because....well, because I have all the equipment and know how but I assure you just following the basics and putting the ballpark amount of oil and refrigerant will work for you just fine. I've only had the system about a year, but again I have done the same process on many other vehicles without being as **** and they still blow cold af too.
Originally Posted by 01CamaroSSTx
Rolling with same compressor and dryer on the 01 but I've never seen 29° on the thermometer..Rockauto has always had better prices than my local part stores and I've saved money as a result. Parts and Labor isn't cheap, especially when the ones providing the labor mark up the price of the parts. Saved my daughter nearly $600 at NTB.
Honestly even 40 degrees is pretty damn cold. When I run my AC I keep it on low. I don't like it this cold myself.
I'm actually a licensed HVAC guy (for residential and commercial) but the principals are the same. When I removed the old stuff, I measured to within a quarter of an ounce the amount of oil I removed so I'd know how much PAG to re introduce. I also used a micron guage when pulling an evacuation on the system to remove as much moisture as absolutely possible before charging the system. Being that an auto system is not hermetically sealed the way a traditional system in a home or building is as well as the utilization of rubber hoses and gaskets, these systems can't be pulled as low as a house either but you can still pull a deep evac. I used the same superheat calculations to dial in the exact amount of refrigerant the system needed and would efficiently use (used dry bulb on outside ambient air to work in the calculations) etc etc.
Does all of this have to be done? Probably not. I've had to repair cars and work trucks before on a very tight schedule and they come out just fine. Just remove as much oil as you can, clear the lines front to back, clear out the evaporator and the condenser coils if you're not replacing them, add the necessary oil to the compressor and the rest in the accumulator (the instructions will give you the ratio or oz amount).
Make sure you put a nice long nitrogen charge to leak check (bonus, nitrogen removed moisture too). If no leaks are detected, pull a good deep evac on the system. With the pressure still negative, start adding the refrigerant (have the AC set to MAX and the windows down) and bam you're done. I did it the way I did it because....well, because I have all the equipment and know how but I assure you just following the basics and putting the ballpark amount of oil and refrigerant will work for you just fine. I've only had the system about a year, but again I have done the same process on many other vehicles without being as **** and they still blow cold af too.
Honestly even 40 degrees is pretty damn cold. When I run my AC I keep it on low. I don't like it this cold myself.
I would have never thought that I'd be wanting to drive 1700 miles, just to have my A/C swapped and charge lol
Seriously. I usually don't dial them in this far but since it was my own car I was able to spend the time needed to test with a specific ambient air, humidity etc etc. With that said, just doing the faster method I'm still in the high 30s. The important part is just making sure the system is CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN before adding refrigerant. It is absolutely NOT needed to sit here like an ******* like I did with a clamp on the suction side measuring the temp while converting it on the guages and then adding ounce by ounce until the readings were spot on lol
Originally Posted by RONIN LSX
I would have never thought that I'd be wanting to drive 1700 miles, just to have my A/C swapped and charge lol
If you're planning on doing it yourself, I'm sure you can manage. I can help with any questions or whatever. Sourcing the extra stuff might be the bigger issue for you. Having someone that has a nitrogen setup, guages etc. So with that said, I don't even have a clue how much this kind of work would cost if you have to take it to a shop. But, the cost can end up being worth it if you don't have the tools and equipment because that stuff isn't cheap and you might end up only using on this one job.
10-09-2021, 12:28 AM
Best Options for an AC Compressor 
