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I have a window that rattles when down and when in the up position you can still rattle it a small amount. What I have found is in the pictures, the piece that attaches the track to the regulator is loose and may even be split and the bottom of the mating surface. Please let me know how this works and what would be a good fix for it. Thanks.
Last edited by nastyiroc; Jun 24, 2022 at 09:29 PM.
You are about to loose that roller. The failure of the window channel that the roller is pressed into is very common with our cars. When that goes, the window will not work right. I suspect that the start of the roller pulling out is why you found your window out of adjustment recently.
I recommend having someone (carefully) weld the roller back to the channel, which should get the roller back on straight and reinforce the cracking. Others, who have experienced full failrures have come up with more exotic fixes with modifying the roller to accept a bolt. The factory solution is to replace the window track; however the part is no longer availble - so any used part you'll get will be suspect and the labor to install it will be huge.
All this being said, this may not be the source of your rattle - but it could be. I would check the bottom of the door. There should be a rubber block that slots into a channel cut into the bottom of the door. When the window is all the way down, it should squeeze against this rubber block and wedge into place and hold still. Very often (especially if people are messing around inside the door...) that rubber block can be knocked out of its slot and be loose inside the door. If this is the case, you can just slot it back in its proper channel to get it working for you again.
The other thing to check is to make sure the shrouds around the lock and latch linkages are situated so you don't have metal-on-metal contact of the rods.
So I had a local shop weld it today and sadly it was not perfectly flat before I had him weld it so it seems kinda cockeyed. I think my best best is to just get a new replacement channel and take the window out and also replace the regulator. Any input would be great as the window still feels really look in the front as I think the regulator is clapped out.
So I had a local shop weld it today and sadly it was not perfectly flat before I had him weld it so it seems kinda cockeyed. I think my best best is to just get a new replacement channel and take the window out and also replace the regulator. Any input would be great as the window still feels really look in the front as I think the regulator is clapped out.
This shouldn't matter. Any deviations should be able to be solved for in the door/track adjusting. (This mechanism is built to have variations. It is not a Swiss watch!) As long as the post is solid and doesn't move, you should be fine. If the glass isn't aligned, you can follow the shbox instructions from step 1 to get it back and aligned.
This shouldn't matter. Any deviations should be able to be solved for in the door/track adjusting. (This mechanism is built to have variations. It is not a Swiss watch!) As long as the post is solid and doesn't move, you should be fine. If the glass isn't aligned, you can follow the shbox instructions from step 1 to get it back and aligned.
when I put my hand on the front of the glass through the speaker hole with the glass being mid way down it shakes badly. I would assume this is the play in the regulator or is something else broken?
This shouldn't matter. Any deviations should be able to be solved for in the door/track adjusting. (This mechanism is built to have variations. It is not a Swiss watch!) As long as the post is solid and doesn't move, you should be fine. If the glass isn't aligned, you can follow the shbox instructions from step 1 to get it back and aligned.
when I first left the shop after having him weld it the glass would only roll up about 3/4 before getting severely bound up. I loosened and messed with every adjustment and now it goes up and down but the glass is pitched too far in makes the door hard to close as I am pushing the window back out trying to close the door. It’s always been like this and I am thinking if I get a new regulator in there and new track on the bottom of the window there isn’t much more I could replace.
when I put my hand on the front of the glass through the speaker hole with the glass being mid way down it shakes badly. I would assume this is the play in the regulator or is something else broken?
This is normal. The window is loose in the middle and is only secure when it locks all the way in the up position or all the way in the down position. (The later against the rubber block in the bottom of the door.) The felt stabilizers help keep the glass "stable" during its trip in the middle of the journey. (If I remember correctly from shbox, those stabilizers do not touch the glass when its locked all the way up.)
Originally Posted by nastyiroc
when I first left the shop after having him weld it the glass would only roll up about 3/4 before getting severely bound up. I loosened and messed with every adjustment and now it goes up and down but the glass is pitched too far in makes the door hard to close as I am pushing the window back out trying to close the door. It’s always been like this and I am thinking if I get a new regulator in there and new track on the bottom of the window there isn’t much more I could replace.
The regulator won't do anything, but its not surprising that your geometry is off. You should just be able to do a proper adjustment of all the tracks. You won't be able to do just one. You will need to do through the full shbox program.
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95 TA window regulator to track fix? 
