Any Suggestions?
it's crucial to allow any engine to get at least 3 - 5 minutes of warm up time. If he's driving the car hard, without it warming up, something will give...especially with 30 & 40 degree temps.
everywhere I go (minus the "rubbing").
The "RPMs going up but car doesn't go" is suspicious.
I still am suspicious that the MAF may be whacked
which would lead to all manner of mixture and tranny
trouble. There are a couple of common, stupid things
that people do to these cars - porting the MAF, and
using oiled-type air filters - that have these kind of
effects (lean mixture, slipping trans) and you can
check for these things yourself.
The "RPMs going up but car doesn't go" is suspicious.
Mike.
So we put the old one back in and it runs like S***, i am bummin really bad. I just cant figure whats wrong with it, but hopefully we will get the new one in and it will run better. Also, i am hearing a whistling type noise coming from the turbo? But only until the car gets warmed up. Does anyone else have this problem. And also, i was watching the RPM's and it looks like as soon as it goes over 2500 thats when its not getting enough gas?
would be a serious aftermarket departure.
I really, really suggest you get onto checking out
the MAF - physical first, then electrically if you
are able.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
no V-6 turbos since about 1989?.
The MAF is a metal/plastic/metal "Oreo" sandwich
situated between the airbox lid and the throttle
body. It has a 3-pin connector. At least, if it's
stock. The stock MAF will have a screen on the
inlet side.
This piece is sometimes (too commonly) modified
in pursuit of performance gains on the cheap.
If the MAF has a 5-pin connector and a little
adaptor harness it is not stock. If it is a one-
piece, mostly plastic design it is non-stock. If
its dull aluminum metal pieces have been replaced
with shiny anodized aluminum ones or colored
plastic ones, ditto. These latter three are all
generally problematic.
Many people simply remove the screen. This is
generally benign. But, some also commence to
grinding out material ("porting") which will whack
the calibration. If you see there is no screen
then you have to check for signs that the ends
are modified (bad).
Use of oiled-type air filters is known to produce
long term calibration drift as the oil mist coats
and crusts up on the sense elements. This type
of filter may be present, or may have been used
previously and removed for sale. If the filter is
not "regular old paper" with a backing mesh, but
looks like foam or gauze material, it should go in
the trash and the MAF be cleaned. A spooged-up
MAF can throw you way lean as well as causing
excess spark advance and tranny slip. If you want
to just clean it, to call it done, get a big can of
electrical contact cleaner (like CRC "QD" cleaner
at Home Depot) and spray down the little sense
resistor wires inside the MAF, without actually
touching them, until you have taken out any
residue (check the runoff on a paper towel). Just
use the whole can, from the front & back, until
it's dead clean.
The MAF electrical side should be checked out.
A dead MAF should throw a MAF Frequency Low
code. Did you get a complete codes list from
Putz Boyz? The MAF wires should have ground,
+12V and +5V on them. The "+5" line also should
have a frequency riding on it, about 2500Hz at
idle on an A4 car. If you don't have a digital
multimeter that reads frequency, the output can
also be read by any "real" scan tool (the code-
reader toys from AutoZone don't count).
Because there seems to be so much "fog" around
this and so much to learn from a proper reading
of the PCM, you'd really be well off to give a
shout-out in the Midwest Forum section here.
I see there are plenty of Indiana people active
and some of them I know are into the tuning tools
and might help you out - for free, having nothing
to sell. Beg for scanning help and offer beer.
No according to the "putz-boys" its o2 sensor. But i would of figured that atleast changing one of the sensors would of showed a bit of improvement.
Oh and the Turbo thing, i think thats what it is called. It is under the hood in the very back but right in the middle, its a silver casing
What does the "silver shiny thing in the middle of the motor" say on it?
Heavens to Pete...this is probably a current board member messing with us.
Anyway, my husbands friend who looked at it last night, called it Turbo.
If you have the hood open , it is all the way in the back, and the last part you can see before it goes under the rest of the car, its on the very top and its like a silver,casing, alomst like abox, theres something inside of it Im sure. We bought it from a ford dealership, the previous owner kept it in excellent shape, no dents, dings, nothing and it was really quiet, absolutely beautiful, it looks just like my avatar, except not a ss hood. I'm not trying to confuse you, http://carad.ebayimg.com/i21/01/a/02/af/dd/8c_4.JPG
Its the part in the back that say 3800
Now do you understand, why i am so confused
I am just hoping the new sensors will help it.






I'll let you guys know tonight