Any Suggestions?
11-09-2004, 10:23 AM
#21
Interesting...try the sensors and let us know how it reacts. Another tidbit that I personally like to do, is to let my car warm up. Temperatures have been dropping and
it's crucial to allow any engine to get at least 3 - 5 minutes of warm up time. If he's driving the car hard, without it warming up, something will give...especially with 30 & 40 degree temps.
it's crucial to allow any engine to get at least 3 - 5 minutes of warm up time. If he's driving the car hard, without it warming up, something will give...especially with 30 & 40 degree temps.
11-09-2004, 10:32 AM
#22
Staging Lane
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Ok great, I've always though about that, but in the morning i just want to get up and go and im sure my car does to. He hasnt done any real mods to it and its a beautiful car and he just thinks that he can run it hard, but hopefully if this fixes it he will make the mods he needs to get it to run like he wants to run it, i will let you guys know after tonight when he fixes it/
11-09-2004, 10:52 AM
#23
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Mine has only 22K miles but I drive it NASCAR style
everywhere I go (minus the "rubbing").
The "RPMs going up but car doesn't go" is suspicious.
I still am suspicious that the MAF may be whacked
which would lead to all manner of mixture and tranny
trouble. There are a couple of common, stupid things
that people do to these cars - porting the MAF, and
using oiled-type air filters - that have these kind of
effects (lean mixture, slipping trans) and you can
check for these things yourself.
everywhere I go (minus the "rubbing").
The "RPMs going up but car doesn't go" is suspicious.
I still am suspicious that the MAF may be whacked
which would lead to all manner of mixture and tranny
trouble. There are a couple of common, stupid things
that people do to these cars - porting the MAF, and
using oiled-type air filters - that have these kind of
effects (lean mixture, slipping trans) and you can
check for these things yourself.
11-09-2004, 10:59 AM
#24
Staging Lane
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OK great, I am printing all of your guys messages out hope ya dont mind, so that i can relay all this to him. Yea he drives it nascar style which would be fine if it had some mods done to it. Thanks to all for checkin my posts out and givin me some advice i will be sure to let you all know later on tonight what is goin on! 
11-09-2004, 11:53 AM
#25
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
The "RPMs going up but car doesn't go" is suspicious.
Mike.
11-10-2004, 09:51 AM
#27
Staging Lane
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Ok, got the car all jacked up and ready to put the new sensors in. Got the first one in and started on the second and realized they gave us two different plugs. The second wasnt the right one. What frickin idiots Pep Boys has working for them.
So we put the old one back in and it runs like S***, i am bummin really bad. I just cant figure whats wrong with it, but hopefully we will get the new one in and it will run better. Also, i am hearing a whistling type noise coming from the turbo? But only until the car gets warmed up. Does anyone else have this problem. And also, i was watching the RPM's and it looks like as soon as it goes over 2500 thats when its not getting enough gas?
So we put the old one back in and it runs like S***, i am bummin really bad. I just cant figure whats wrong with it, but hopefully we will get the new one in and it will run better. Also, i am hearing a whistling type noise coming from the turbo? But only until the car gets warmed up. Does anyone else have this problem. And also, i was watching the RPM's and it looks like as soon as it goes over 2500 thats when its not getting enough gas?
11-10-2004, 10:16 AM
#28
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The noise is the AIR pump, if you got a turbo that
would be a serious aftermarket departure.
I really, really suggest you get onto checking out
the MAF - physical first, then electrically if you
are able.
would be a serious aftermarket departure.
I really, really suggest you get onto checking out
the MAF - physical first, then electrically if you
are able.
11-10-2004, 10:52 AM
#30
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No factory V-8 turbo cars since I can remember,
no V-6 turbos since about 1989?.
The MAF is a metal/plastic/metal "Oreo" sandwich
situated between the airbox lid and the throttle
body. It has a 3-pin connector. At least, if it's
stock. The stock MAF will have a screen on the
inlet side.
This piece is sometimes (too commonly) modified
in pursuit of performance gains on the cheap.
If the MAF has a 5-pin connector and a little
adaptor harness it is not stock. If it is a one-
piece, mostly plastic design it is non-stock. If
its dull aluminum metal pieces have been replaced
with shiny anodized aluminum ones or colored
plastic ones, ditto. These latter three are all
generally problematic.
Many people simply remove the screen. This is
generally benign. But, some also commence to
grinding out material ("porting") which will whack
the calibration. If you see there is no screen
then you have to check for signs that the ends
are modified (bad).
Use of oiled-type air filters is known to produce
long term calibration drift as the oil mist coats
and crusts up on the sense elements. This type
of filter may be present, or may have been used
previously and removed for sale. If the filter is
not "regular old paper" with a backing mesh, but
looks like foam or gauze material, it should go in
the trash and the MAF be cleaned. A spooged-up
MAF can throw you way lean as well as causing
excess spark advance and tranny slip. If you want
to just clean it, to call it done, get a big can of
electrical contact cleaner (like CRC "QD" cleaner
at Home Depot) and spray down the little sense
resistor wires inside the MAF, without actually
touching them, until you have taken out any
residue (check the runoff on a paper towel). Just
use the whole can, from the front & back, until
it's dead clean.
The MAF electrical side should be checked out.
A dead MAF should throw a MAF Frequency Low
code. Did you get a complete codes list from
Putz Boyz? The MAF wires should have ground,
+12V and +5V on them. The "+5" line also should
have a frequency riding on it, about 2500Hz at
idle on an A4 car. If you don't have a digital
multimeter that reads frequency, the output can
also be read by any "real" scan tool (the code-
reader toys from AutoZone don't count).
Because there seems to be so much "fog" around
this and so much to learn from a proper reading
of the PCM, you'd really be well off to give a
shout-out in the Midwest Forum section here.
I see there are plenty of Indiana people active
and some of them I know are into the tuning tools
and might help you out - for free, having nothing
to sell. Beg for scanning help and offer beer.
no V-6 turbos since about 1989?.
The MAF is a metal/plastic/metal "Oreo" sandwich
situated between the airbox lid and the throttle
body. It has a 3-pin connector. At least, if it's
stock. The stock MAF will have a screen on the
inlet side.
This piece is sometimes (too commonly) modified
in pursuit of performance gains on the cheap.
If the MAF has a 5-pin connector and a little
adaptor harness it is not stock. If it is a one-
piece, mostly plastic design it is non-stock. If
its dull aluminum metal pieces have been replaced
with shiny anodized aluminum ones or colored
plastic ones, ditto. These latter three are all
generally problematic.
Many people simply remove the screen. This is
generally benign. But, some also commence to
grinding out material ("porting") which will whack
the calibration. If you see there is no screen
then you have to check for signs that the ends
are modified (bad).
Use of oiled-type air filters is known to produce
long term calibration drift as the oil mist coats
and crusts up on the sense elements. This type
of filter may be present, or may have been used
previously and removed for sale. If the filter is
not "regular old paper" with a backing mesh, but
looks like foam or gauze material, it should go in
the trash and the MAF be cleaned. A spooged-up
MAF can throw you way lean as well as causing
excess spark advance and tranny slip. If you want
to just clean it, to call it done, get a big can of
electrical contact cleaner (like CRC "QD" cleaner
at Home Depot) and spray down the little sense
resistor wires inside the MAF, without actually
touching them, until you have taken out any
residue (check the runoff on a paper towel). Just
use the whole can, from the front & back, until
it's dead clean.
The MAF electrical side should be checked out.
A dead MAF should throw a MAF Frequency Low
code. Did you get a complete codes list from
Putz Boyz? The MAF wires should have ground,
+12V and +5V on them. The "+5" line also should
have a frequency riding on it, about 2500Hz at
idle on an A4 car. If you don't have a digital
multimeter that reads frequency, the output can
also be read by any "real" scan tool (the code-
reader toys from AutoZone don't count).
Because there seems to be so much "fog" around
this and so much to learn from a proper reading
of the PCM, you'd really be well off to give a
shout-out in the Midwest Forum section here.
I see there are plenty of Indiana people active
and some of them I know are into the tuning tools
and might help you out - for free, having nothing
to sell. Beg for scanning help and offer beer.
11-10-2004, 11:12 AM
#32
Staging Lane
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Hey, do you mind if i am prining all this out, i just dont want to forget anything.
No according to the "putz-boys" its o2 sensor. But i would of figured that atleast changing one of the sensors would of showed a bit of improvement.
Oh and the Turbo thing, i think thats what it is called. It is under the hood in the very back but right in the middle, its a silver casing
No according to the "putz-boys" its o2 sensor. But i would of figured that atleast changing one of the sensors would of showed a bit of improvement.
Oh and the Turbo thing, i think thats what it is called. It is under the hood in the very back but right in the middle, its a silver casing
11-10-2004, 12:39 PM
#33
Something isn't right here...you bought it in February with how many miles? Was it 20,000 or 23,000? You said it was in mint condition and looked brand new? Well, brand new the car doesn't come with a turbo. Did you buy it from a dealer or individual? If someone put a turbo on it then you're dealing with an entirely NEW set of problems.
What does the "silver shiny thing in the middle of the motor" say on it?
Heavens to Pete...this is probably a current board member messing with us.
What does the "silver shiny thing in the middle of the motor" say on it?
Heavens to Pete...this is probably a current board member messing with us.
11-10-2004, 01:05 PM
#34
Staging Lane
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No I'm not messing with you, I'm just a 19 year old blonde and an air head, and i will gladly admit that. I can remember if it had 20000 or 23000, i think it was 23000.
Anyway, my husbands friend who looked at it last night, called it Turbo.
If you have the hood open , it is all the way in the back, and the last part you can see before it goes under the rest of the car, its on the very top and its like a silver,casing, alomst like abox, theres something inside of it Im sure. We bought it from a ford dealership, the previous owner kept it in excellent shape, no dents, dings, nothing and it was really quiet, absolutely beautiful, it looks just like my avatar, except not a ss hood. I'm not trying to confuse you, http://carad.ebayimg.com/i21/01/a/02/af/dd/8c_4.JPG
Its the part in the back that say 3800
Now do you understand, why i am so confused
Anyway, my husbands friend who looked at it last night, called it Turbo.
If you have the hood open , it is all the way in the back, and the last part you can see before it goes under the rest of the car, its on the very top and its like a silver,casing, alomst like abox, theres something inside of it Im sure. We bought it from a ford dealership, the previous owner kept it in excellent shape, no dents, dings, nothing and it was really quiet, absolutely beautiful, it looks just like my avatar, except not a ss hood. I'm not trying to confuse you, http://carad.ebayimg.com/i21/01/a/02/af/dd/8c_4.JPG
Its the part in the back that say 3800
Now do you understand, why i am so confused
11-10-2004, 01:17 PM
#35
Originally Posted by thegirl
Its the part in the back that say 3800
11-10-2004, 01:24 PM
#38
Check around the front of the motor & see if you can tell if there's any type of oil/antifreeze seeping from it... You could possibly have an intake leak, but I've never heard of them whistling like that & I don't think it would cause the car to run that badly.
11-10-2004, 01:41 PM
#39
Staging Lane
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No theres nothing, no spills, leaks, nothing dripping from the car. Thats why i can understand this. It just makes a soft clicking, its hard to explain.
I am just hoping the new sensors will help it.
I am just hoping the new sensors will help it.
11-10-2004, 02:45 PM
#40
I was joking regarding the comment about you messing with us. 
You should shoot the guy who looked at it and called the intake a turbo. I hope he's not working on your car.
You should shoot the guy who looked at it and called the intake a turbo. I hope he's not working on your car.