oil leak maybe coming from timing cover? is this possible?
03-24-2005, 07:55 PM
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oil leak maybe coming from timing cover? is this possible? there is a large amount of buildup on the block and even the heads, oil pan and intake manifold and optispark... im thinking this leak is coming from the timing chain cover... is this even possible? i checked the bolts on it and them were easy to turn either way with a wrench seemed a bit loose... kinda gotta figure out what caused this oil leak since i think its what caused my opti to take a **** (optical sensors... computer throws DTC 16 loss of high res pulse signal, strangely still, the car runs. For the first 30 seconds after turn on, it will run on 7 cylinders, not firing the # 2 cylinder, but after 30 seconds #2 promply fires and the car runs normal til high rpms.. takes a **** and starts to sputter at 5200)
03-24-2005, 08:10 PM
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Yes this can def happen. Actually I am going home to fix the gasket this weekend. Most likely the gasket is just worn the heck out and is on its way out. Also the two circular gaskets probably going out and is letting oil into the Opti causing it to take a ****. I would.....replace the timing cover seal, valve cover gaskets, and be careful of the oil pan gasket...need to loosen the front couple bolts of the pan otherwise you can rip it easy. Ask me how i know...lol. Good luck.
03-25-2005, 12:20 PM
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the valve cover gaskets are brand new from when i did my headgaskets 2 months ago.. are the bolts in the timing cover supposed to be kinda loose? i couldnt turn them with my fingers but with a socket wrench they turned kinda easily in either direction... im guessing this is where the leak is coming from... now when i take it off do i just need to replace the one gasket that goes around it? do i need to take off my crank pulley too or can i get away with leaving it on?
03-25-2005, 01:22 PM
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yep pulley needs to come off and the crank hub to fully clean the mating surfaces. The bolts should have been tight. In the gasket kit for the timing cover it will include the gasket to go around the timing cover and two circular gaskets.....they replace the two in the timing cover....so go ahead and do that too. Good luck.
03-25-2005, 01:28 PM
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Valvecover gaskets are fairly resilient. I've reused my stockers probably 10 times already -- just make sure they are clean of oil. I've had a new set laying around for years, just never had the need for them.
It's also possible that you have an oil leak at the front intake manifold connection as well (just RTV across the front, like the back of the manifold).
As far as the timing cover, yes, you will have to remove the balancer, as well as pull the hub off of the crank snout. Otherwise, the timing cover can't be removed. If you're going to do this amount of work, I'd go ahead and replace the three timing cover seals (crank/opti/waterpump). I can get you the GM part numbers if you want, but any local autoparts store should have a Felpro 'kit' containing ALL of these timing cover seals and the gasket. Makes it simple.
It's also possible that you have an oil leak at the front intake manifold connection as well (just RTV across the front, like the back of the manifold).
As far as the timing cover, yes, you will have to remove the balancer, as well as pull the hub off of the crank snout. Otherwise, the timing cover can't be removed. If you're going to do this amount of work, I'd go ahead and replace the three timing cover seals (crank/opti/waterpump). I can get you the GM part numbers if you want, but any local autoparts store should have a Felpro 'kit' containing ALL of these timing cover seals and the gasket. Makes it simple.
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03-25-2005, 02:48 PM
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how do i go about removing the hub? i have an aftermarket march crank pulley on there andi really dont know how to get that off either lol.. is there a special puller?
03-25-2005, 03:43 PM
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I've never had a march pulley, so I cant really comment on that. Is it bolted over the balancer, or...?
As for the hub, it's a total pain in the **** to remove and reinstall. It's a press-fit onto the crank snout.
First, rotate the engine until the arrow on the hub is facing 12:00. It's important to keep the orientation of the pulley/hub with the crankshaft the same, or else you'll have trouble finding top dead center (TDC) in the future.
To remove it, you'll need a generic hub puller -- about $10 from Autozone. You'll also need a *long* 1/4" drive extension (you know, the small socket wrench size). I'd personally recommend using different bolts than what are supplied in the hub puller kit -- you're better off getting slightly smaller bolts that will pass THRU the hub bolt holes, and put a nut/washer on the other side (as opposed to directly threading bolts into the hub).
You need to find a way to keep the engine from rotating -- if you have a manual tranny, put it in 5th gear. If auto, you might have to wedge something into the flywheel/flexplate's teeth (what the starter motor uses).
Basically, you remove the center bolt in the middle of the hub (5/8"). Once the bolt is out, stick the 1/4" drive extension in it's place. It will pass thru the hub and press against the crank. You then get your hub puller bolted to the three toes of the hub, with the large center forcing-screw pressing down on the 1/4" drive extension. Keep cranking the crap outta the hub puller's forcing screw (takes a lot of force), and the hub will slowly pull off of the crank.
Voila! You can then unbolt and remove the timing cover.
Installing the hub is more scary. Either find a threaded rod at Home Depot that is the same thread as the hub bolt, and get a few washers and a nut -- OR, find a few bolts the same thread as the factory hub bolt, but an inch or so longer in length. You then 'pull' the hub back on with the bolts/washers/nut (whichever you choose to use). TIP: HEAT THE HUB IN THE OVEN BEFORE REINSTALLING -- that will expand the metal a little and help it slip on. Just don't burn yourself.
That's the quick explanation. If you need anything clarified, just ask. Keep in mind that the factory crank/hub bolt is a torque-to-yield (TTY) type bolt, which isn't technically supposed to be reused. I'd hate to have that thing break off into the crank snout -- then you'd be in real trouble. I can get you the GM part number for a new bolt if you wish.
Sorry I wrote so much -- just hard to explain correctly in so many words...
As for the hub, it's a total pain in the **** to remove and reinstall. It's a press-fit onto the crank snout.
First, rotate the engine until the arrow on the hub is facing 12:00. It's important to keep the orientation of the pulley/hub with the crankshaft the same, or else you'll have trouble finding top dead center (TDC) in the future.
To remove it, you'll need a generic hub puller -- about $10 from Autozone. You'll also need a *long* 1/4" drive extension (you know, the small socket wrench size). I'd personally recommend using different bolts than what are supplied in the hub puller kit -- you're better off getting slightly smaller bolts that will pass THRU the hub bolt holes, and put a nut/washer on the other side (as opposed to directly threading bolts into the hub).
You need to find a way to keep the engine from rotating -- if you have a manual tranny, put it in 5th gear. If auto, you might have to wedge something into the flywheel/flexplate's teeth (what the starter motor uses).
Basically, you remove the center bolt in the middle of the hub (5/8"). Once the bolt is out, stick the 1/4" drive extension in it's place. It will pass thru the hub and press against the crank. You then get your hub puller bolted to the three toes of the hub, with the large center forcing-screw pressing down on the 1/4" drive extension. Keep cranking the crap outta the hub puller's forcing screw (takes a lot of force), and the hub will slowly pull off of the crank.
Voila! You can then unbolt and remove the timing cover.
Installing the hub is more scary. Either find a threaded rod at Home Depot that is the same thread as the hub bolt, and get a few washers and a nut -- OR, find a few bolts the same thread as the factory hub bolt, but an inch or so longer in length. You then 'pull' the hub back on with the bolts/washers/nut (whichever you choose to use). TIP: HEAT THE HUB IN THE OVEN BEFORE REINSTALLING -- that will expand the metal a little and help it slip on. Just don't burn yourself.
That's the quick explanation. If you need anything clarified, just ask. Keep in mind that the factory crank/hub bolt is a torque-to-yield (TTY) type bolt, which isn't technically supposed to be reused. I'd hate to have that thing break off into the crank snout -- then you'd be in real trouble. I can get you the GM part number for a new bolt if you wish.
Sorry I wrote so much -- just hard to explain correctly in so many words...
Last edited by Alex94TAGT; 03-25-2005 at 03:53 PM.
03-25-2005, 03:58 PM
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im honestly just gonna say screw it... i know the oil leak is just coming from around the edges of the timing chain cover... can i just replace that gasket and not worry about the rest of them? maybe since the bolts were lose i just need to torque them down a little and that will fix it??
