boondiggys

iTrader: (165)

lose the heater box and youll be sitting on a beach in heaven...

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

its easy as pie. done it once before and id do it again

ALL plugs will be removed from the top, remove drivers side coil pack and the tube going into the exhaust manifold and its super easy...

on another note, i belive my 140,000 mile car has factory denso irridum plugs in it with factory wires. i know my 105k mile car had factory plugs still....the missing out might be something else...

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

as for you LT1 guy, take your car somewhere. see how much it is to have plug wires done at the same time. i have heard of people changing LT1 plugs themselves, but people usualy take their cars places to have the wires changed, they go everywhere all over the motor and just dissapear and re appear..

777

iTrader: (21)

I can do them in less than 30 minutes. Here is what I do. First, the tools needed: 3/8" ratchet, 1/4" ratchet, 3" extension, 5/8" spark plug socket, 10mm gear wrench (prolly could get by without but this is the stuff I use), 10mm socket, 10mm deep socket.
First, I start out by checking the gap on all spark plugs. Then I start on the driver side and take off all of the plug wires. Then I start with the #7 plug and work my way up using the 3" extension when necassary. I take the new plugs and put anti-seize around the threads, then screw them in with the 3" extension and 5/8" socket. Once they are tight I connect the 3/8" ratchet and tighten them (not too tight, just to where it's good and tight). Now that's the easy side IMO. For the passenger side I take off all the wires I can. Usually I'll leave the #8 on. Then I take off the #6 and #8 coil pack ( I have a 98 so they are individually mounted) with a combination of the 10mm wrenches. Then it is now easier to get the #8 wire off. I face toward the passenger side tire and put my arm back there with my palm facing the engine. You will suprised how much easier this is when you are positioned like that if you do not already do that. Then I start with the #8 plug with the same position. Comes out like a piece of cake. I continue all the way up to the #2 and then put in the new plugs with anti-seize. After that's done just put everything back together like you took it off.

Note: I don't have an emissions equipment so you may need to remove some of that to gain access to certain plugs/wires.

SporkLover

iTrader: (2)

my technique is similar to 777's.

The driver side is easy.... and for the passenger side I removed the AIR tubes, and coil pack rail... and it gives you all the room you need.

Then I took the plugs out by facing the passenger side of the car from the front, and palm torwards the firewall. sooo much easier to get some torque on those things and get them out.

Anti Seize is the key though..... it will make it oh so much easier the next time around

01formulafromthebay

iTrader: (2)

**** I tryed To check my plugs today and couldn't even get off the boot but I did want mess anything up so i just left them alone since i have to drive the car to work. I will check them and change them if needed on sunday since I don't have to work till wednesday. This should be easy since i have installed headers on a few ls1's allready.

markp03

iTrader: (4)

you can get all but the 8 from the top.. then jack it up to get number 8...took me a little over a hour to do it the other day

AronZ28

iTrader: (2)

RIGHT. . .

Not to scare you off, but this job can be a pita if all your plugs are seized in the holes. The first time is difficult, it took me 4 hours. I'm sure I could do it in an hour now that I know exactly what I'm doing.

Easy as pie=changing plugs on a 4 banger Honda.

2K2WS6TA

iTrader: (2)

Another thing to think of when taking it to be serviced, is they may not change ALL the plugs, I know several cases of f bodys that the #8 plug has NEVER been changed, as it's such a PITA to get to

JustAnIlluzion

iTrader: (60)

easier then on the gfs avenger. half of the plugs were under the doghouse, what a PITA.

shep28

iTrader: (4)

30mins. here. I find that the hardest part is reinstalling the boot on plug #8 due to clearance issues.

chris2000ss

iTrader: (9)

do it your self and save some $$.the first time is always a pain in the a$$ but youll get the hang of it..

Osiris

That's what I'm talking about! Don't take this wrong but I can't believe that no one has said anything more serious than a eye wink. True gear heads, like most of us on this forum, will only let someone work on our car if it is 100% necessary. All standard services will be done by me. I don't even like it when the inspector has to drive my car for vehicle inspections. If I have the ability and tools, I will do it myself.

Please do it yourself and save the heartache, and you will know that it was dont right!

00'WS6Rocket

iTrader: (3)

City Garage wanted to do mine for about 700.00, screw that I just just took off the whole coil pac assm off pass side and it was a breeze. Do it your self and save the money for upgrades

Lftu2

whats the best plugs and wires to purchase for the lt1

JCurtin

iTrader: (1)

take your time the 1st time. Once you do it a few times its no big deal. i could do my 98's plugs in under an hour. I went to change my 2002s for the 1st time yesterday and snapped 4 damn plug wires one after another. Yeah i was pissed. Even after snapping 4 wires, and installing the new plus, wild goose hunting for replacement pre-cut wires, I was still done in 2.5 hours.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

Bring it to my house and I'll change them for you. changed a few local f-body owners plugs & wires for them. no charge.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

Just buy lunch. takes about 2 hours.

ChaoSS

iTrader: (6)

Hello,
Lost manual. What is Plug gap 99 Camaro ss with LS-1,
Travis

Patman

Go with a .050" gap, that seems to work best. The manual says .060, but the bigger gap is more likely to show more knock retard, plus I've found the throttle response is not as good with the higher gap.