weird thing happened today
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weird thing happened today ok well i started the car and started up fine and ran fine, then i drove my friend to his car then put my car in park. then about ten minutes later shifted it into D and it died, the car just died i dont know why. it started right back up then drove fine but i tried to put it in park then shift into D and it didnt die at all could it possibly be my cutout isnt putting enough back pressure and that might have caused it to die i want to find out what caused this i am gonna put my cutout cap back on tomorrow and see if that fixes it. also no weird engine noises could it be a vaccum leak maybe???
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I dont think its too serious. Might have just been cold. My truck did that one time. I turned my truck on and shined the lights into the garage so I could see (to get something) and I ran back and jumped in my truck and put it in drive and it died. It started back up like nothing happened though.
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well the car has been idling funny lately like if i come to a hard stop it will go down to about 600 RPMs and then settle back at about 700-750 RPMs, i think it could possibly be the plugs and me and a friend are gonna change them once i get my headers in the mail which is taking forever. and is it easy to change the fuel filter and how much do they cost????
The fuel filter is simple to change.
Just remember, also take off the rear screw that helps connect the fuel line to the car. I forgot to remove this screw and when I moved the line to remove from the filter, I bent the line due to the screw being in place.
I used my hayes manul and info here at this site.
When you disconnect the line a bit of fuel will spill out from both lines, also the fule filter has some fuel too, so remember this when you remove the fuel filter.
Just remember, also take off the rear screw that helps connect the fuel line to the car. I forgot to remove this screw and when I moved the line to remove from the filter, I bent the line due to the screw being in place.
I used my hayes manul and info here at this site.
When you disconnect the line a bit of fuel will spill out from both lines, also the fule filter has some fuel too, so remember this when you remove the fuel filter.
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Originally Posted by Z28LS1camaroguy
ok what kind do i get and how much does it cost???? and did this happen to any of you??
I've never pulled off any "rear screw" that I can recall. One side of the filter/line is quick disconnect and the other requires a wrench. Real simple, takes just a couple mins, but remember you WILL get fuel on whatever is underneath the area when you pull the filter, there is no way to avoid it.
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
I just went out to my garage to double check what size wrenches you'll need, it's 16mm on the fuel line side and 20mm on the filter side. The other side of the filter is a quick disconnect, which means you just squeeze the prongs on the filter and pull the fuel line and the filter gently apart and the filter slips out....it'll make more sense once you get the new filter and look at how the prongs work.
The only braket involved is the one that the filter actually rests in, but there is no bolt to remove, the filter just slides right out of it once the fuel lines are removed.
Don't stress out about this job, it's so easy it's not even funny. Just don't have your face directly under the filter when you pop the lines off....gas WILL come out.
The only braket involved is the one that the filter actually rests in, but there is no bolt to remove, the filter just slides right out of it once the fuel lines are removed.
Don't stress out about this job, it's so easy it's not even funny. Just don't have your face directly under the filter when you pop the lines off....gas WILL come out.
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ok well my headers finally came in the mail today and i am gonna be changing the spark plugs and wires along with using the stock header bolts and new MLS gaskets, and since my headers are race ready i will only need to plug the top of the manifold right?? and were can i buy the plug instead of ordering it online. and what all will i be removing with the air and egr. any places to get pics on how to remove that stuff.
installuniversity.com is a great site and i think may have some of the info with pictures that you are asking for. This site im sure has some too.
The bolt i was talking about is on the rear line of the fuel filter facing the back. Lift the car up a bit and you will see a screw with a tie that is holding this part of the fuel line to the frame. And like the others have already said, watch out for the dripping gas from the lines and filter and this is not a difficult job to do. Good luck.
The bolt i was talking about is on the rear line of the fuel filter facing the back. Lift the car up a bit and you will see a screw with a tie that is holding this part of the fuel line to the frame. And like the others have already said, watch out for the dripping gas from the lines and filter and this is not a difficult job to do. Good luck.
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Originally Posted by 98boxer
The bolt i was talking about is on the rear line of the fuel filter facing the back. Lift the car up a bit and you will see a screw with a tie that is holding this part of the fuel line to the frame.
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Wow, you actually had to remove that? All the times I've done 4th gen fuel filter swaps I've never needed to pull that bolt out. The quick disconnect side of the line is flexible enough that I just leave that brace alone.
I acutally DIDNT
but WISH I had removed this bolt. WHY?Because my dumbass could not get that piece of line removed from the filter. So out of frustration with filter still on the bracket. I decided to pull a bit harder. So I pull and then the line comes out of the fuel filter but, I bent the line at the begining of the screw. Which is why im recommending to remove this screw. Which is safe insurance and takes only a few seconds to remove and install.
Of course being a bit more carfull and going to the hayes manul or this site for answers, would have been a better choice rather then pulling the line till it was released from the filter and bend at the screw.
So yes, I recommend you remove this screw. Its safe insurance. I was lucky that the plastic fuel line did not leak at the bend. But its up to you and does not take much effort to do. You may have better luck then I did with removing the fuel line.
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Originally Posted by 98boxer
I acutally DIDNT but WISH I had removed this bolt. WHY?
Because my dumbass could not get that piece of line removed out of frustration and filter still on the bracket. I decided to pull a bit harder. So I put and then the line comes out of the fuel filter but, I bent the line at the begining of the screw. Which is why im recommending to remove this screw, which is safe insurance and takes on a few second to remove and place back.
Of course being a bit more carfull and going to the hayes manul or this site would have been a better choice then pulling the line till it was released from the filter.
So yes, I recommend you remove this screw. Its safe insurance. I was lucky and the plastic fuel line did not leak at the bend. But its up to you and not much effort to do. You may have better luck then I did with removing the fuel line. And knowing this, next time changing the fuel filter will be that much easier.
but WISH I had removed this bolt. WHY?Because my dumbass could not get that piece of line removed out of frustration and filter still on the bracket. I decided to pull a bit harder. So I put and then the line comes out of the fuel filter but, I bent the line at the begining of the screw. Which is why im recommending to remove this screw, which is safe insurance and takes on a few second to remove and place back.
Of course being a bit more carfull and going to the hayes manul or this site would have been a better choice then pulling the line till it was released from the filter.
So yes, I recommend you remove this screw. Its safe insurance. I was lucky and the plastic fuel line did not leak at the bend. But its up to you and not much effort to do. You may have better luck then I did with removing the fuel line. And knowing this, next time changing the fuel filter will be that much easier.
You're right it does seem like simple insurance.PS. Which side of the fuel line did you remove first? I always loosen/pull the screw-on side first, then the quick disconnect side pulls right out. Have you tried it this way?
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Sounds like it's a good idea then. I never had an issue like yours yet, but there's always a first time, right? You're right it does seem like simple insurance.
You're right it does seem like simple insurance.But yeah, thats happend to me. I felt like **** when I did this. I thought, there goes extra money that I didn't have to spend. But it was cool and the line was ok.
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Originally Posted by 98boxer
You responded quick. I was editing my first response.
But yeah, thats happend to me. I felt like **** when I did this. I thought, there goes extra money that I didn't have to spend. But it was cool and the line was ok.
But yeah, thats happend to me. I felt like **** when I did this. I thought, there goes extra money that I didn't have to spend. But it was cool and the line was ok.
Actually I just added something to my last reply too..... copied below:
PS. Which side of the fuel line did you remove first? I always loosen/pull the screw-on side first, then the quick disconnect side pulls right out. Have you tried it this way?
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Sounds like it's a good idea then. I never had an issue like yours yet, but there's always a first time, right? You're right it does seem like simple insurance.
PS. Which side of the fuel line did you remove first? I always loosen/pull the screw-on side first, then the quick disconnect side pulls right out. Have you tried it this way?
You're right it does seem like simple insurance.PS. Which side of the fuel line did you remove first? I always loosen/pull the screw-on side first, then the quick disconnect side pulls right out. Have you tried it this way?
Honestly, I can remeber which one I did first. But yours sounds like a good idea. I'll have to try that next time. Thanks.
Do you have a code or anything, a messed up ECT sensor can screw up an idle nicely and cause a car to die/not start, i dont think back pressure is your problem your cats alone provide enough, and its debatable that backpressure is needed at all
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the only code i ever threw was a EGR code and that was b/c of my cutout, my friend thinks its a vaccum leak somewhere and i dont hear any weird sounds or anything like that. hopefully after my header install and spark plug swap it will help along with removing that AIR and EGR crap. i just hope its bad spark plugs but my SES light hasnt done the blinking thing or any lighting up, could a loose rocker arm or bent pushrod cause this??? I was also thinking it may be a bad fuel injector and i need to clean them but the fuel filter i will have to do and see about that aswell.
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Originally Posted by Z28LS1camaroguy
the only code i ever threw was a EGR code and that was b/c of my cutout, my friend thinks its a vaccum leak somewhere and i dont hear any weird sounds or anything like that. hopefully after my header install and spark plug swap it will help along with removing that AIR and EGR crap. i just hope its bad spark plugs but my SES light hasnt done the blinking thing or any lighting up, could a loose rocker arm or bent pushrod cause this??? I was also thinking it may be a bad fuel injector and i need to clean them but the fuel filter i will have to do and see about that aswell.
However, if your EGR valve is going bad (like the pintle sticking open when it should be closed at idle) that would certianly cause idle issues, including rough idle, or hanging idle, or even stalling out depending on how bad it is. So your friend could very well be correct about it being a vacuum leak, because that's basically what you've got if that valve is sticking open at idle.
So if you're getting an EGR code, and having idle issues, it's very likely you've got a bad EGR valve. EGR went bad on my '98 and it caused idle issues for me as well, a new valve fixed the problem. Mine didn't stall out, but the idle would hang and surge a little, all I'd have to do to correct the problem was to restart the car and it'd clear up for a while, just like yours.
So if you plan to remove your EGR system, then that might solve your issue.