AIRBAG light
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
AIRBAG light Search is down. It's probably been asked before, but does anyone know which wire powers the AIRBAG light on the dash (there's a trillion wires under the dash coming from the steering column). Yes, you guessed it, I killed the SRS system to put a real steering wheel in the car (Sparco suede three spoke rally wheel). Don't want to draw attention at inspection. Does this throw a code in OBD 2 system that will show up when the inspection ***** plug into it??
Bad news....the inspector will look for the light when the key is turned to the on position. If the light does not come on then that is an automatic failure since an airbag is a safety device and that light on the dash is what tells them whether or not the airbag system is working. If somebody has found a way around that then i would love to know cause i hate airbags
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
Does anybody know the exact ohm rating for the resistor?? I broke out the LED for the airbag light and now I get a SERVICE VEHICLE light! I'm afraid to go in and destroy that one as it seems they put infinite "fail safe" warning lights into this system 
. Can this be edited/scanned/autotapped out so that it does not return, or is the resistor to fool the system into thinking the airbag is still in place the only solution?? Any really good GM PCM/BCM electrical techs out there? In other words, can DTCB0670 be edited out/eliminated in any way/shape or form, or will it keep lighting up dash lights forever?
. Can this be edited/scanned/autotapped out so that it does not return, or is the resistor to fool the system into thinking the airbag is still in place the only solution?? Any really good GM PCM/BCM electrical techs out there? In other words, can DTCB0670 be edited out/eliminated in any way/shape or form, or will it keep lighting up dash lights forever? 
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From: Finland
Well you could always somehow get the light out of the airbag socket, put in another light that is tapped to say service engine so it comes on when the ignition is turned on and then goes away. Just an idea.
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I think the best bet would be to put in a resister on the airbag deployment loop so that it is a complete circuit. That would make the light go out and solve all your problems.
I think the resistance of the driver's side is 6 ohms.
http://www.ls7power.com/diagrams/air...int.system.pdf
I think the resistance of the driver's side is 6 ohms.
http://www.ls7power.com/diagrams/air...int.system.pdf
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
Originally Posted by 2002_Z28_Six_Speed
I think the best bet would be to put in a resister on the airbag deployment loop so that it is a complete circuit. That would make the light go out and solve all your problems.
I think the resistance of the driver's side is 6 ohms.
http://www.ls7power.com/diagrams/air...int.system.pdf
I think the resistance of the driver's side is 6 ohms.
http://www.ls7power.com/diagrams/air...int.system.pdf
A diode's resistance varies depending on the voltage of the circuit.
If the circuit has less than .7 volts the resistance is infinite. If more....usually the resistance is close to nothing. Hard to say the exact amount.
I would just put the LED back in and try to trick the airbag module into thinking the airbag is still there. If you read through the document above it has the conditions the computer will check for.
If the circuit has less than .7 volts the resistance is infinite. If more....usually the resistance is close to nothing. Hard to say the exact amount.
I would just put the LED back in and try to trick the airbag module into thinking the airbag is still there. If you read through the document above it has the conditions the computer will check for.
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
Thanks for all of the help, but the LED is destroyed and I don't know what to replace it with. 
BTW, do I just plug the resistor into the yellow connector at the end of the ds airbag wire? Do I use a 6 ohm resistor (what wattage?) or the 2K ohm, 1/2 watt resistor previously mentioned?? Does anyone know if I take out the SERVICE VEHICLE LED, will it keep the car from starting, or set some other failsafe circuit? I would just leave it as is, but, the inspection tools in my state will take the SV light as an SES light (even if you point out the difference to them 
) and fail me instantly. 
BTW, do I just plug the resistor into the yellow connector at the end of the ds airbag wire? Do I use a 6 ohm resistor (what wattage?) or the 2K ohm, 1/2 watt resistor previously mentioned?? Does anyone know if I take out the SERVICE VEHICLE LED, will it keep the car from starting, or set some other failsafe circuit? I would just leave it as is, but, the inspection tools in my state will take the SV light as an SES light (even if you point out the difference to them ) and fail me instantly. 
Here is an LED: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102852
Here is the resistor: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
You can get them at many electronics stores. Make sure the LED is white when lit not just when off.
With the yellow airbag connector... It won't work unless both sides are plugged in. I would take the other side of the connector, cut it off, put the resistor on that, and then plug it back in.
The airbag system will run the test cycle when you throw the key. It wants more than 3.7 ohms and less than 6. That can be done with two 10 ohm resistors in parellel. That would be 5 ohms. Unless, you can just find a 5 ohm resistor and use that. If you can, use 1/2 watt resistors instead of the 1/4 watt. I think the 1/4 watt will not be enough.
In the event that the airbag module decides to active the deployment loop:
volts times current equals power
(23 volts) times (4.6 amp) = 105.6 watts
So the resistors will instantly burn up and open the circuit again and you will have to replace them.
The 1/4 watt resistors might work if that is all you can find.
There would be .4 watts applied in the circuit during the test cycle. That is more than 1/4 watt but the test cycle is only for 1/3 of a second. The strain is smaller because it lasts for such a short time. Plus the .4 watts is going to be across both resistors so it is half as much.
Always over design.
There would be .4 watts applied in the circuit during the test cycle. That is more than 1/4 watt but the test cycle is only for 1/3 of a second. The strain is smaller because it lasts for such a short time. Plus the .4 watts is going to be across both resistors so it is half as much.
Always over design.
I played around with it tonight. I just got it to work on my car. No airbag light. It blinks 7 times and then turns off!
Last edited by 2002_Z28_Six_Speed; Jan 10, 2006 at 10:07 PM.
Wow this one is old.
As I stated in reply #16 I was able to make a resistance that the computer would accept putting it in place of the airbag and leaving out the steering column completely.
The value was somewhere around 1 to 1.5 ohms. I remember having to dial it in. Wasn't too bad. Just a trip to Radio Shack.
It fooled the computer and the light never came back on again until I had the time to replace my broken clockwork spring. Unfortunaley, I have since sold the device to a friend and there is no market for them so I never made another one.
Wonder if dailydriver ever got his fixed.
As I stated in reply #16 I was able to make a resistance that the computer would accept putting it in place of the airbag and leaving out the steering column completely.
The value was somewhere around 1 to 1.5 ohms. I remember having to dial it in. Wasn't too bad. Just a trip to Radio Shack.
It fooled the computer and the light never came back on again until I had the time to replace my broken clockwork spring. Unfortunaley, I have since sold the device to a friend and there is no market for them so I never made another one.
Wonder if dailydriver ever got his fixed.
Thread Starter
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
No. What I ended up doing is just opening the IP and putting black electrical tape over the Service Vehicle Soon light on the IP surface.
It has gone through 2 inspections (even with our ***** here) without a question being asked. I guess when they plug into the OBD2 port it DOES NOT connect/interface with the BCM like it does with the ECM.
I may still try the solution you came up with, but it may not work since my AIRBAG bulb is broken out of the IP, with no "jumper" or new bulb in it's place.
One question; do you think with your solution that the system would be fooled to the point of keeping the passenger airbag functional/deployable, EVEN with NO airbag on the driver's side???
It has gone through 2 inspections (even with our ***** here) without a question being asked. I guess when they plug into the OBD2 port it DOES NOT connect/interface with the BCM like it does with the ECM.
I may still try the solution you came up with, but it may not work since my AIRBAG bulb is broken out of the IP, with no "jumper" or new bulb in it's place.
One question; do you think with your solution that the system would be fooled to the point of keeping the passenger airbag functional/deployable, EVEN with NO airbag on the driver's side???
Wow this one is old.
As I stated in reply #16 I was able to make a resistance that the computer would accept putting it in place of the airbag and leaving out the steering column completely.
The value was somewhere around 1 to 1.5 ohms. I remember having to dial it in. Wasn't too bad. Just a trip to Radio Shack.
It fooled the computer and the light never came back on again until I had the time to replace my broken clockwork spring. Unfortunaley, I have since sold the device to a friend and there is no market for them so I never made another one.
Wonder if dailydriver ever got his fixed.
As I stated in reply #16 I was able to make a resistance that the computer would accept putting it in place of the airbag and leaving out the steering column completely.
The value was somewhere around 1 to 1.5 ohms. I remember having to dial it in. Wasn't too bad. Just a trip to Radio Shack.
It fooled the computer and the light never came back on again until I had the time to replace my broken clockwork spring. Unfortunaley, I have since sold the device to a friend and there is no market for them so I never made another one.
Wonder if dailydriver ever got his fixed.
i went out and bought two 10ohm 10watt resistors.
well i also have 5 1/4watt 10 ohm resistors...
i guess i could just slap em all together in parallel.
please clarify.
thanks