Need some help here.
Need some help here. I just pulled my car out of storage this weekend after about 5 months of storage. It ran fine for the first couple of days but no trips over 10 miles. On sunday I drove it for about 90 miles and at about the 75 mile point it started to stutter real bad and lost all of its power under partial throttle. Under full throttle it still had power and pulled hard. I drove it monday and tuesday for a couple of short trips and it drove fine until it was warm and again it would start stuttering under partial throttle but was fine under full throttle. The only code it was throwing was a Bank 1 O2 sensor. I ordered a set and will install when I get them but I doubt that it is the real problem.
Today I was out and about and it started again once it was warm and I also noticed the tach (factory) would stop working and then come back on. This seems like an electrical problem But I am not sure where to start looking. The lack of DTC's is making it tough to find a stating point.
Has anyone had this problem before or know where I should start looking?
Thanks for you help.
Ryan
Today I was out and about and it started again once it was warm and I also noticed the tach (factory) would stop working and then come back on. This seems like an electrical problem But I am not sure where to start looking. The lack of DTC's is making it tough to find a stating point.
Has anyone had this problem before or know where I should start looking?
Thanks for you help.
Ryan
i was going to sat new o2s until you said the tach goes haywire,but i wonder if it is a short why would it do it only at part throttle.does the tach completely drop or just go up and down some?
The tach will drop to 0 for a mile or two. My brother suggested bad gas but that dosent explain the tach or the fact it runs fine under full throttle. It had enough stabilizer in it to treat 50 gallons. I'm wondering if Hardcore didn't boch the install and leave the cable down by the starter for the cam position (I think) exposed to the header.
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Well it'll run good at WOT because it runs in open loop at WOT ignoring the 02s, but the tach acting flakey is more idicative of an electrical problem
An electrical schematic would help in determining if the o2 wires are possibly providing a ground for the tach signal
An electrical schematic would help in determining if the o2 wires are possibly providing a ground for the tach signal
There is a bigger problem here. I replaced the O2's and it still has the same problem. It's now doing it under full throttle as well.
With the tach dropping to 0, I think is has a short somewhere. Where, I have no idea.
Any thoughts?
With the tach dropping to 0, I think is has a short somewhere. Where, I have no idea.
Any thoughts?
IIRC the tach wire is a white wire out of #10 pin (look for a shiftlight install that'll tell you definately what and where the tach wire is) then just start tracing it (you'll have to take it out of the loom), look for damageed insulation, chaffing, or evidence of arcing
I am having a similar problem. My tach went to 0, then the car starting acting weird. I haven't been able to get under the hood yet, but I have a feeling it's the cam position sensor. That's the code that I got when the car started acting funny. And, this was shortly after I had a shop weld some intercooler piping, so they may have done something with the wire that caused it. HTH.
IIRC, the cam position sensor is on the back of the block by the MAP sensor, along with the oil pressure sensor. most of the wire harness down there by your starter is your starter leads and for you O2s and tranny. If you wires for your starter has gotten close to your headers, then look for any burnt marks and if anything, check them all for any shorts in the grounds down there.
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